Table Saw Comparisons - Tools - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Equipment & Safety > Tools

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-09-2011, 09:50 PM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1,764
Rewards Points: 42
Default

Table saw comparisons


I got the saw out and put it together. I have used a table saw but it's been a while and they've added a lot of safety features. A couple of questions.

How important is the riving knife? The instructions say the included riving knife matches the thickness of the included blade. So If I want to use a blade with a thicker kerf, I must buy a riving knife to match it.

Then there is the kickback controller. Again, Important? It seems like these things can get in the way.

It came with a 24 tooth blade that looks to have anti-kickback protection built into it. Are these any good? Or do they just include a cheapo blade so they can say it is a complete kit? I bought an 80 tooth Irwin blade that is recommended for the laminate flooring I have to cut. But it has a wider kerf that the included blade so I guse I won't be using the riving knofe for that.

I guess I will have a better idea once I actually get to use the thing. Maybe tomorrow.

Advertisement

Jim F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2011, 10:49 AM   #17
Pro Flooring Installer
 
rusty baker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 4,027
Rewards Points: 2,324
Default

Table saw comparisons


IMHO, some of the "safety" equipment make table saws more dangerous because you have to fight them to use them.
__________________
The ads in my post are there without my permission. I do not endorse any of the products.
Semi-Retired Installer
Installing since 1973
rusty baker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2011, 01:27 PM   #18
uva uvam videndo variafit
 
WirelessG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: W by God VA (bye MS )
Posts: 558
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Table saw comparisons


I don't use any of the safety equipment that comes with table saws. Instead, I use my head and make careful, deliberate moves. I always try to work safe, but riving knifes and blade guards just block my view and I don't want to guess where the blade is located. I might be convinced to try anti-kickback wheels, but I've never tried them. When ripping sheet goods I try to stand to the left of the stock and push on an angle back towards the fence, but in front of the blade (you don't want to put pressure on the blade or the back side of the blade)....kinda like a human featherboard. This keeps the stock tight against the fence, keeps the stock from wobbling, and keeps me out of the way in case it kicks back. The biggest danger is coming in contact with the blade while it's spinning and the best was to avoid that (I find) is by making careful deliberate moves and keeping the shop clean so that you don't trip over clutter. Also, don't leave a pencil behind your ear because it can drop, hit the blade, and come back at your face in a hurry.

As far as I know, the riving knife simply keeps the stock from springing back after it passes through the saw and binding on back of the saw, so I don't think you would need to change it out for thicker kerf blades.

There are a lot of people in here who are a lot more knowledgeable than me and they may disagree with my comments, so see what the others say.
WirelessG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 09:00 PM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1,764
Rewards Points: 42
Default

Table saw comparisons


Took a chunk of meat out of my left thumb being in a hurry with the gards off working too close to the blade and not powering down. Do the higher end table saws come with a blade brake?

Anyway I got in and out of the ER in record time. Two nurses worked in tandem to get the thumb wrapped and get me in and out. It doesn't hurt that I work there. Didn't hit bone so that was good. got back to work on the kitchen floor later that afternoon before heading off to work.


Now I'm looking to buy a real miter guide for this thing without spending too much. There is a wide range of prices and some of them look like more than I need. Open to suggestions.
Jim F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 10:43 PM   #20
uva uvam videndo variafit
 
WirelessG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: W by God VA (bye MS )
Posts: 558
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Table saw comparisons


Saw Stop has a table saw that runs a light electric current through the blade and once your fingers come in contact, the current is grounded and the saw shuts off. They are not cheap though. Other than that, I don't know of any that come with a brake (although there prolly are some).

Rockler had a decent miter gauge with positive stops at each half degree (I don't see it on line anymore). An Incra or a Kreg would be a good choice. Check Rockler and Amazon for prices and reviews. It depends on what you are wanting to cut. It seems that most people use a square sled to cross cut on a table saw and make their miter cuts on a miter saw (if the stock isn't too big).
WirelessG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 06:41 AM   #21
DIY staff

 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 22,350
Rewards Points: 3,336
Default

Table saw comparisons


GOOD GOD JIM!!!!

Be careful----Never raise the blade more than 1/4 inch or so above the material to be cut---

Keep that left hand away from the blade--If you use it to push the material against the fence---
keep the hand in one place (where it can't hit the blade if the board vanishes)--use your fingers like a feather board,

On a small saw like that do not try to use the miter guide---use a chop saw---Just throw the miter guide in the trash.

If you must use a miter slide with a small saw make a sled--make two--one for 90* and another for 45*

I always preach that bigger is safer when it comes to table saws----The little ones have limits.

For cutting laminate flooring I always make a box guide for a Skill Saw----One slot for 90* another for 45* and an adjustable one for odd angles.

Use the table saw only for rips.(straight cuts) Laminate will dull a saw blade instantly.
Save that nice blade for good wood--use the lesser blade for the laminate.


And please slow down and THINK !!!!!

Wireless G said it well----Slow deliberate movements. ---Your friend,Mike-----
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oh'mike For This Useful Post:
kwikfishron (05-13-2011)
Old 05-13-2011, 07:16 AM   #22
Mod
 
kwikfishron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kansas (NCK)
Posts: 7,845
Rewards Points: 2,474
Default

Table saw comparisons


Jim, read Mikes post #21 over and over and over again.
__________________
A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words
Especially In The DIY Chatroom
kwikfishron is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to kwikfishron For This Useful Post:
oh'mike (05-13-2011)
Old 05-13-2011, 08:03 PM   #23
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1,764
Rewards Points: 42
Default

Table saw comparisons


Thanks for the responses. I do have a miter saw. I guess a square sled is all I really need for cross cuts. I would rather be using my miter saw for the cross cuts but only have one laminate blade so am making both cuts on the table saw.

After this accident I've done a lot of reflecting and went on Rockler's site and read up on saw safety. There they say to use either the miter guage or the fence for cuts but the guage I have isn't very effective so
i'll have to look into the square sled or put the blade on the miter saw since most of my cuts are cross anyway.

The funny thing is, I work as an X-ray tech and when I went in to work that afternoon, my first patient was a guy who also cut his thumb on a table saw with a worse outcome. He did catch the bone.
Jim F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 09:42 PM   #24
DIY staff

 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 22,350
Rewards Points: 3,336
Default

Table saw comparisons


Jim,I've installed a bit of laminate flooring----If the install is typical---the cuts are hidden under the base and shoe.

No fancy blade is required,that I know of. I always made a cutting box and used a skill saw.

Laminate is murder on blades---If it were me I'd get several fair quality circular saw blades for the Skill and one 10" throw away blade for the table saw.

A cutting box is made like this---You need two pieces of plywood 10 or 12 inches wide by 2 or 3 feet long-----and some 1x2 scrap.

Glue a strip of 1x2 to one long edge of the plywood--lay a piece of you laminate onto the plywood next to the 1x2--this is just a spacer--now glue in another strip of 1x2 on the outside of the laminate--

Leave a little space 1/8"? so that the laminate will slide in without binding--

Glue on the top piece of ply---mark a 45* and 90* mark---screw o scrap of 1x2 along the line--

Set your saw depth to cut the top /sides and just touch the bottom---Done--


Jim--be careful-- I'll be starting a thread on table saw safety soon enough---You had my stomach in a knot today---There is a bit to learn and we will try to help.----Mike----
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 09:47 PM   #25
Pro Flooring Installer
 
rusty baker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 4,027
Rewards Points: 2,324
Default

Table saw comparisons


Most of the woodworking sites have instructions to build a good, safe crosscut sled. Or get stupid like I did and spend $1000 for a tablesaw. Hasn't been used in 3 years.
__________________
The ads in my post are there without my permission. I do not endorse any of the products.
Semi-Retired Installer
Installing since 1973
rusty baker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 10:41 PM   #26
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1,764
Rewards Points: 42
Default

Table saw comparisons


Mike, I got one of those Irwin twin pack's that lowes sells that has an 80 teeth blade. It was about middle of the road pricewise. Had I realized what you said about the cuts being hidden I would have just used my old one. It's probably too late to save the new blade I bought since I've already made quite a few cuts. The cutting box is another good idea. I'll either do that or set up my miter saw which has an old blade in it already. Then just use the table saw for ripping.

Rusty, I did find and print plans for a sled here http://lumberjocks.com/CessnaPilotBarry/blog/20388 .
Jim F is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Jim F For This Useful Post:
oh'mike (05-14-2011)
Old 05-14-2011, 07:10 AM   #27
DIY staff

 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 22,350
Rewards Points: 3,336
Default

Table saw comparisons


Thanks for the response---Mike----

Advertisement

__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Super glaze bar table finish jlwiu1 General DIY Discussions 16 06-01-2014 01:16 PM
Powered outlet on table saw outfeed table? b_corwin Electrical 11 04-12-2010 07:23 PM
Tressle table - how to build? Knucklez Carpentry 1 10-24-2009 04:18 PM
Need Advice for Adding Wheels to Table HandyDottie Carpentry 7 01-27-2008 08:44 PM
Question about table saws,... tribaloverkill Tools 28 04-13-2007 09:47 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts