Snow Blower Pull doesn't have tension

Camper147

I havea Craftsmen 3.8 HP 4 cycle snow blower and yesterday morning it started fine and today when I went to use it , the pull doesn't have any tension but the pull will retract into the case like it should but its like something has come off inside and I wanted to know if anybody has any suggestions before I start taking things apart.
Thanks
dave

elementx440

does it recoil?

be careful if you do take it apart because the recoiler is wound extremely tight, and will unwind violently if you're not careful, it could mess ya up.

Camper147

If I let go of the pull it will go back onto the roller I guess its called, everything seems normal except when you pull the cord it just seems to be very very easy to pull without any resistance at all. I have only had this Craftsmen a couple of years maybe 3 and probably used the thing maybe 6 - 8 times if that and just after the warranty expired it just stopped working completely. afetr a 150.00 repair it ran fine until now with minor hard starting issues but once it starts its fine.
Dave

harleysilo

There is a spring, really a thin piece of metal wound tightly in the mechanism you are considering taking apart. If you don't take it apartly correctly it will un-wind and will be a pain to get put back together. Have you searched online for a repair manual?

redline

Can you post a photo of the recoil?

You may be able to remove the screws that hold on just the recoil and then lubricate the inside workings.

The cam action on the recoil may be stiff or stuck.


Which style does yours look like from the below catalog?

http://www.hhlce.com/Shop/Briggs-and...tart_parts.htm

RippySkippy

Redline, Thanks for posting that link, that's a great site!

Camper147. if I were to speculate, I would guess that the starter clutch is not working correctly. The good thing is that to get to this, you don't have to mess with that nasty recoil spring, just 3 or 4 bolts.

If it's a Briggs and Stratton motor -- Take the fly wheel cover off or look for the small screws to take the recoil starter off. Then you should see the starter clutch assembly. You might want to orient the machine so the starter clutch is pointing vertically if possible, it'll make the chance of you loosing pieces much less. There's a small tin cap pressed on to the starter clutch that will need removed. With a thin edged screw driver, or utility knife, work around the edge twisting up slightly and the cover will pop off. Inside you'll find a lobed center that should turns easily. You should see 4 or 5 ball bearings that are each in their own little recess. My guess is that one of these isn't dropping out be engaged. Look for any grease, or wear spots that could restrict their movement. If it's grease, clean an re-assemble, if there's excessive wear -- replace. Don't be tempted to lubricate the insides with anything other than a bit of powdered graphite, or you'll be doing this again when the lubricant attracts bits of dirt and gets sticky.

The starter cluch works so simply that it's almost a sin. When you pull on the starter rope, it spins the starter cutch assembly top that binds up the ball bearings against the lower half of the clutch. When the motor starts, centrifigal force pushes the ball bearings out of the way of the clutch so it won't engage while running. My guess is that one of the ball bearings is stuck in the "out" position and won't let the clutch engage. It could also be that this has not worked from when new and it just happened to stop just right and this one bearing isn't cooperating.

If it's a Tecumseh motor, go http://www.landscapepower.com/tecumseh.html locate your model number and get the picture, you might be able to see how the inards work.

Good luck,

Rip

Camper147

This looks most like what I have but I will comfirm today but thanks for all that have replied this is a great site maybe I can fix it and not have to buy another.

Recoil Starter Assembly

• Replaces:
  • <LI type=square>Briggs and Stratton 497598
  • Briggs and Stratton 493295
• For Quantum and Europa engines
• Includes starter cup to use on engines with Susa starters
• 5 9/16" OD x 1 5/8" HT
• 4 mounting holes, 4 1/2" center to center

redline

If you remove the four screws that attach the starter pull to the engine and then you may be able to just spray some wd-40 or other spray lube on the ratcheting part that is not engaging . I had to do this on one engine that had the same problem.

redline

Did you get it to work?

nailfun

in simple terms there are gears or tines inside the pull start assembly. Over time they get worn and hard and break off as you pull angrily to start the peice of crap.
New choice, try to fix the recoil yourself if you are a cool dude. You may still find you need to order parts, but are you ready to do this? New choice, take it to the repair shop. Dont trust your dumbass neighbor or buddy to do it for you. You know as much as they do and maybe more about it.
Step three the peice of crap is 15 years old. BUY A NEW ONE!

BusTech

Just a quick 2 cents.... If it worked good one day and not the next, sounds like the pawls on the recoil are slightly frozen due to powdery snow getting inside the recoil. When the machine is running air is drawn in through the recoil by the flywheel to help in cooling the engine. Hence when the engine is pulling in air and powdery snow, the snow turns to liquid. When you shut the engine off and it cools off, the now liquid snow will freeze the pawls so they will not come out. This is of course assuming you left it outside in the cold temps. If this is the case, try moving the machine to a warmer area or use a hair dryer on the recoil itself.
Kind of a long drawn out answer, but being in the business for 20 years myself, I wouldn't want to see you take things all apart needlessly.

BusTech

RomanMVP

Darn glad I found this site, as I had the exact same problem as of yesterday. Thanks to BusTech, I moved my 8 hp Yardman (Tecumseh) into the sun and, Jesus, Mary, and Joseph, it thawed, and it works again!!

Wolfpatch

It sounds like the starter dogs broke. These are taps that, when you pull the starter cord, swing out of ether the retainer or the pulley and rewind spring making contact with the blower. This is that first bit of resistance you feel and the click you hear when you pull the starter cord. After contact with the blower is made, the rewind started spins the blower and in turn, rotates the crank shaft turning over the engine. When the start cord is released, the tabs return to “where ever they came from’ and ideally, the engine continues on by itself. With a problem like this, I suggest you purchase a repair kit that has a replacement retainer or pulley and rewind spring; depending on where the starter dogs are located on your blower. You can buy a kit through Sears® or any local hardware store will carry a “one size fits all” version. Fallow the instructions that come with the repair kit. While you have the rewind starter off, you might as well replace the started cord. Also, this is a good time to replace your fuel filter and drain and flush the carburetor if you have to exposé them to get to the rewind starter. Consult your owner’s manual to find part locations and part numbers. If your owner’s manual has a different recommendation or procedures, follow those. The ones who built the blower know it best. Good Luck!

maxx79

BusTech nailed it. Had the same problem and shone a halogen lamp on the recoil assembly for 5 minutes; bingo it thawed out and works again. Thanks!

AtlanticWBConst.

....and the resurrection of a 5 year old thread (OP) came to be.....

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