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Old 03-01-2013, 10:46 AM   #16
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


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We don't know at this point how precision this needs to be, nor width and length, so I'll suggest this. Clamp the bolt to the drill press table using the bolt head and nut flats to your advantage. File a flat in the area to be slotted that parallels the head and nut flats. If the nut is larger than the head, shim the head so the bolt shank is level. As mentioned, lay out the area with lay out blue ( Prussian Blue ) for a good reference. Center punch in a straight line the area for the holes to be drilled and clamp the bolt to the table for each hole to be drilled with a good quality sharp under sized bit. Finish rough cutting the slot with a Dremel and reinforced cut off wheel. If precision is needed, finish filing to the lay out lines. Any inventor should be able to to this with ease.
center punching didnt occur to me, but im thinking that is a good idea, it should have leaped to my mind, i do it all the time in woodworking
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:35 AM   #17
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


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what oil should i use for this? and how do i keep the oil in place? do i need something to help guide the bit?
Don't use lubricating oil. Water would be better than lube oil. Cutting oils specifically for this type of work are available in liquid or aerosol at most automotive stores. Just an occasional drop every second or two on that size project will do.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:37 PM   #18
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


That sure looks to be about a 12-13 x 3" hex head bolt to me, or close. I work for a major player (the Blue one) in the nut/bolt industry and I would not consider that to be a "really heavy bolt", although it may be to you. Consider that I recently ordered twelve (12) three inch (3") x twelve inch (12) hex head bolts, that's 3-4x 12" grade 8 for a local industry. Oh yeah, the nuts, flat washer, and lock washers also. I'm still doubting, especially after the photo, that this bolt is hard, or even tough. Being as it is smaller than I had originally thought I am sure you can put the slot in it with the method I mentioned. At this time I am currently working on a quote to supply six (6) "tie bolts" for this industry for one of their machines which will be eight feet (8 ft.) long x eight inches (8") diameter and threaded with a twelve thread pitch on each end. That's one bolt. IF I get this bid then we will supply them for all six (6) of their paper machines. Maybe enough commission for a vacation?
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:16 PM   #19
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


Want to know how hard the bolt is? Just look at the head of the bolt.
How many lines are on it?
Only place you can drill a round bolt is dead center. Even then you would need a center punch or a combination countersink and drill.
It would still be useless to put just a notch in it.
A Dremal is a toy, if that all you have and you have plenty of time have at it.
Any real cutting fluid for metal will have sulfur in it.
Just using water can work harden the bolt.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:20 PM   #20
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


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That sure looks to be about a 12-13 x 3" hex head bolt to me, or close. I work for a major player (the Blue one) in the nut/bolt industry and I would not consider that to be a "really heavy bolt", although it may be to you. Consider that I recently ordered twelve (12) three inch (3") x twelve inch (12) hex head bolts, that's 3-4x 12" grade 8 for a local industry. Oh yeah, the nuts, flat washer, and lock washers also. I'm still doubting, especially after the photo, that this bolt is hard, or even tough. Being as it is smaller than I had originally thought I am sure you can put the slot in it with the method I mentioned. At this time I am currently working on a quote to supply six (6) "tie bolts" for this industry for one of their machines which will be eight feet (8 ft.) long x eight inches (8") diameter and threaded with a twelve thread pitch on each end. That's one bolt. IF I get this bid then we will supply them for all six (6) of their paper machines. Maybe enough commission for a vacation?
i measured it to make cardboard or posterboard mockups to see how big the slots should be, the head is 1 7/16s and the shaft is 15/16s, roughly 8 and a half inch long.
those are some big ones, that makes this bolt look like a little one, but other than the ones connecting the collar ties to the rafters in this house, this is the largest bolt ive seen(im wondering what this could have gone in), for this application im not needing it to be really hard, i mainly just need the weight of it, am i reading this right? 8 foot long? ive bought pine boards that long for a bench, that has to take a huge wrench, or green lantern(my favorite dc comic organization) or superman to turn that! that has to cost a lot, i bet that would give a big enough commission for your vacation and your kids college fund

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Want to know how hard the bolt is? Just look at the head of the bolt.
How many lines are on it?
Only place you can drill a round bolt is dead center. Even then you would need a center punch or a combination countersink and drill.
It would still be useless to put just a notch in it.
A Dremal is a toy, if that all you have and you have plenty of time have at it.
Any real cutting fluid for metal will have sulfur in it.
Just using water can work harden the bolt.
i dont see any lines but i see some letters and numbers, "307A" and under that is "PX"
i was about to ask about dremel tools for this job, ive even looked at some milling bits in a micromark catalog, but i dont know if they would work in a standard bench top drill press

Last edited by feralfreak; 03-02-2013 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:19 AM   #21
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


O.K., so you do have a big bolt. The "307A" designates a grade of Stainless Steel (now you have a new problem with machining) the "PX" designates the manufacturer (which I am not familiar with). Some of the off-shore manufacturers use either their two/three letter code stamp or their American customers code stamp. Yes, the tier bars are eight foot long, they will have a 3/4" hole drilled lengthwise halfway the length of the bolt. A heater would be placed within this hole, the tie bar will be heated to expand it. They don't use regular hex type nuts on these, one end is screwed into part of the machine base, and the other end has a special type two piece compression nut. When the tie bar is secured into the tapped hole of the base, passing through other machine sections, the bar is heated, the special nut is secured then there are bolts on top of it which are tightened which pushes the two nut sections away from each other until the bolts are properly torqued. The heater is turned off and pulled out, the tie bar is cooled which in turn somewhat stretches the tie bar for proper tension.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:45 AM   #22
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


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for this application im not needing it to be really hard, i mainly just need the weight of it,
Now that we know that part of the puzzle just make it out of a 1x1 square piece of wood and load each end with lead shot to a tenth of an ounce of the weight you need.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:48 AM   #23
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


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Originally Posted by Thurman View Post
O.K., so you do have a big bolt. The "307A" designates a grade of Stainless Steel (now you have a new problem with machining) the "PX" designates the manufacturer (which I am not familiar with). Some of the off-shore manufacturers use either their two/three letter code stamp or their American customers code stamp. Yes, the tier bars are eight foot long, they will have a 3/4" hole drilled lengthwise halfway the length of the bolt. A heater would be placed within this hole, the tie bar will be heated to expand it. They don't use regular hex type nuts on these, one end is screwed into part of the machine base, and the other end has a special type two piece compression nut. When the tie bar is secured into the tapped hole of the base, passing through other machine sections, the bar is heated, the special nut is secured then there are bolts on top of it which are tightened which pushes the two nut sections away from each other until the bolts are properly torqued. The heater is turned off and pulled out, the tie bar is cooled which in turn somewhat stretches the tie bar for proper tension.
stainless steel, would that mean i would need to go to a machine shop for the slots? compression nut? dang i never heard of that, but there is a lot ive never heard of
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:58 AM   #24
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


307A has nothing to do with stainless steel!.
It's just a low grade carbin steel bolt.
Even if it was stainless, stainless is soft.
http://www.pacificcoastbolt.com/site...t_markings.pdf
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:38 PM   #25
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slot cutting in heavy bolt help


I have a mill and I would do it for you cheap if it is not a hard bolt.
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