Hi, my first post here. A hobby that I have requires that I be able to cut an accurate, no more runout than 1/32, 45 deg. bevel at 10"-12" long. I have tried almost everything except a good sliding compound miter saw. Are differant brands more accurate than others? Is there one that can cut this accurately in 3/4" birch ply?The cut needs to be repeatable without undo setup time and hassles. Thanks,
Richard
The Kapex saw is great if you're a lottery winner. I want one but can't justify the price even though I do a lot of woodworking.
To answer the question...Yes, a sliding miter saw should be accurate to within 1/32" easily. If you buy a cheap-o version, expect more runout and tolerances that aren't as tight. You can't go wrong with Ridgid, DeWalt, the more pricey Delta's and Porter Cable. As you get into the cheaper Craftsmans and Ryobi's the quality goes down.
Personally, I'd recommend a table saw for angle cutting applications where accuracy is critical. A good table saw with a quality aftermarket miter gauge (Incra, Rockler, etc) is the most accurate tool in the shop. You'll get smoother cuts with it as well.
Oh yeah...I stood in front of the Kapex at Woodcraft not three days ago wishing that I had that kind of cash laying around to blow on overpriced Festool stuff! It is truly twice as nice as the nicest saws I've seen.
More importantly, make sure you're not using a cheap blade. Cutting 45 degree angles with precision requires a good blade without much deflection. Expect to pay over $100. Are you making picture frames?
Making stereo speaker cabinets, usually from 10L to 75L in volume. Runout at the cut is absolutely critical to success! Yes, the blade is very important, I`ve used Matsu****a blades with good luck but I`m really looking for less setup and more consistent results. The side thrust on the wood is considerable and requires a good clamp to keep from moving. I have used table saw sleds with mixed results, they are designed for 90 deg. crosscuts and I have had trouble getting the sleds setup to make 45 deg. cuts. The 90 deg. relationship of the blade to the sled fence has slightly eluded me causing accuracy problems. The sled is probably inherently the best bet but requires more effort to dial in. Anyone else have a good plan for building sleds?
See ya,
Richard
If you do a little googling there are tons of plans online. You could also buy a sled from a woodworking supply company. Use a good piece of mdf and router a slot in the bottom for a piece of hardwood so that when the mdf is on the table it is flush. The hardwood should engage nicely in the miter slot, but not too tight. Then run another board perpendicular to the saw blade and mount a couple of hold down clamps to it. If you take your time, using squares and gauges you can build a very accurate sled. There's so many ways and extra features you can build. Just draw a simple plan and start. If you lay and nice straight edge along the blade, the entire length of the table you will be able to adjust the mdf to the hardwood before you attach it.
Here's the miter sled I have. Incra makes it and you can get them at www.woodpeck.com, woodcraft, and other online retailers. They aren't cheap, but if you have a tablesaw and get a nice miter gauge you'll start finding lots more uses for it than previously. They have lesser ones for less money, but the nicer they are the more adjustability they have. They're well-made and are dead nuts accurate.
Speaker enclosures huh? Ever think about using a Lock miter bit in a router table...would make a nice strong and accurate corner for all the pressure... This is what I would use for sure...
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