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sharpening chain saw

2K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  Scottg 
#1 ·
Bought the 5/32 round files to sharpen my little pole chain saw.

The directions on the files say to use with a 'handle'. What handle. Don't tell me I need to buy something else. The saw directions didn't say anything about a 'handle'.

thanks
 
#13 ·
If you have a Dremel Tool, for $10 - $15 they've got a chainsaw sharpening kit. It's got a little guide that helps you keep the right angle. I've used it on mine a bunch of times and it's fairly quick and easy. Not sure how much longer it would be by hand, but I don't care to find out!

Like so many things, there's YouTube videos on how to do it with Dremel or other methods of course. But since it's not that expensive really, and fairly fast to use, this made the most sense for me. (Typical homeowner occasional use.)

Either way, always amazing to see the difference in the chips the saw throws after a fresh sharpening.
 
#16 ·
From what I understand - admittedly limited to limited experience, YouTube and some research - hand sharpening is probably better and can be done a whole bunch of times, (like maybe more than 10, 20, or whatever). But... you have to really do it right. And it really will take longer, unless you're well practiced.

With Dremel method, I'm probably sloppy, and maybe I get five fresh sharpenings out of it because it does take off more stuff, partly due to nature of power tools and as likely, my own probable lack of skill. But it does work! After that, I've got to buy a new $15 - $25 chain. (With the sharpening kit having been maybe $15.) So the ROI on the kit is basically ONE sharpening. Then it maybe saves $50. Of course, as a basic homeowner who's only using this intermittently, we're talking about a new chain only every couple of years.

If I was a pro or cutting all the time? Or out in the woods away from power? The time / money issues might change.

(It helps that I've learned to REALLY avoid touching dirt, which trashes the teeth in no time.)
 
#3 ·
Its safer and easier to use a handle but it can be done without one.
I'd guess by your question you have never sharpened a chainsaw before.
You may have been better off just taking it someplace and getting it sharpened.
That way every tooth would have been sharpened at the exact same angle and depth or at least buying a file with a guide on it.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...811D1E43F627D1FB4617A3191FB1&selectedIndex=61
 
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#8 ·
Experienced loggers generally sharpen their chains using an appropriately sized file, by hand, with no tools. Of course, they have been doing this for years, and can tell by eye the correct angles to hold the file at (there are two different angles you need to hold). For those without experience, it is surprisingly difficult to hand sharpen a chainsaw blade.

If you sharpen the teeth unevenly, you get a rough cut. If you fail to hold the correct angles, you either get a chain that will not cut, or one that cuts too aggressively. You can purchase a jig that holds the file at the correct angles, (I have one by Granville), you can get an electric sharpener, or you can get an inexpensive holder which allows you to eye up the angles while you sharpen. You can also get an inexpensive tool that allows you to measure the height of the rakers (special teeth on the chain) to make sure your teeth are sharpened evenly. Or you can take the chain to a pro.
 
#10 ·
If you have a good eye and a steady hand,It is well within your ability to do this---

Set the saw on a table with a rag under the saw---look at the blade--you will see that every other tooth is connected to the chain on the opposite side---

You will first sharpen one side--then spin the saw 180 and do the other side---

I can do this but describing how is tricky--and my dinner is going to burn---I'll be Back---I've used all the fancy grinders and gadgets and get the best results by hand----I'll be back---Dinner----Mike---
 
#12 ·
The handles just wedge in to a hole in the wood handle---for years i just used a home made scrap of wood with a small hole in the end---

You want to file from the back side of the tooth----observe the angle of the factory cut---hold the file at that same angle---slip the file into the tooth and push the file forward---roll the file a bit in a counter clockwise direction--repeat this 4 times--

May I suggest you practice with a piece of uncooked spaghetti--or some other thin rod---practice stroking forward while keeping the 'file' at the exact same angle as the factory cut---
 
#15 ·
Those do work well--

I tried one and had two issues----first---I sharpen the chain every time I take a break or add fuel---and there is not any electricity in the woods---
second, the Dremmel removes a lot of material,so the blade life is shortened.

With your little saw and the occasional use that you will have---neither issue really matters----so try it----

I'm an old fashioned sort---simple hand tools for some jobs and the satisfaction of a sharp blade using low tec tool that fits in the pocket---works for me---Mike----
 
#4 ·
JOE,

You're right. I've never sharpened a chain before! I may return these files from H.D. and look for one with a guide.

The only repair shop here is expensive and it's a bother to have to take something in.

I may wait till some unsuspecting male visits and see if they can help.
 
#5 ·
I don't use my chain saw much, but I find it much easier to swap out a chain than sharpen on the saw. I bought another and just swap when dull, I can sharpen at my leisure then. Of course, I don't have to cut down numerous trees and saw many logs in one day, mine is mostly used for pruning and the occasional log.

All males are generally unsuspecting. I should know, I am one.:laughing:
 
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