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Old 02-10-2011, 06:13 PM   #1
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I'm thinking about buying a router table (and a fixed base router). What do y'all own and what are your thoughts? I like the Kreg PRS 1040, but at $500, it's a little pricey. I don't really want a bench top, but I suppose I could build or buy a stand for it. I also like the CMT, but it's even more than the Kreg. And then there's the Veritas, and it has a cool pin arm, but it is pricey too.

Oh'Mike said that the best tables for him were the ones that he built, but I'm not sure I'm interested in building my own (although maybe I should). I also wonder about the fence - do I really need a good one? Most of the bits are going to run on their bearings with their full profile, so a clamped-in-place homemade fence should work.

For the most part I will simply be breaking edges and making raised panels.

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Old 02-10-2011, 07:32 PM   #2
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Depending on the applications it will be used for are important. If a store-bought table fits your needs then that is the answer. I have 2 custom ones that I have to set on my saw horses to use, and move my router from one to another. I have an aluminum straight edge I set using drywall screws. When the deck gets too many holes in it I make another one.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:44 AM   #3
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Check out the offering from Lee Valley Tools ( www.leevalley.com/ ). I have one for years and it's a dandy. Lots of accessories to add on if you want.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:14 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by WirelessG View Post
I'm thinking about buying a router table (and a fixed base router). What do y'all own and what are your thoughts? I like the Kreg PRS 1040, but at $500, it's a little pricey. I don't really want a bench top, but I suppose I could build or buy a stand for it. I also like the CMT, but it's even more than the Kreg. And then there's the Veritas, and it has a cool pin arm, but it is pricey too.

Oh'Mike said that the best tables for him were the ones that he built, but I'm not sure I'm interested in building my own (although maybe I should). I also wonder about the fence - do I really need a good one? Most of the bits are going to run on their bearings with their full profile, so a clamped-in-place homemade fence should work.

For the most part I will simply be breaking edges and making raised panels.
this is the table i have. It work's for everthing i want to use it for. I got the one with the dust collection. Their is a video also http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RT01--
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:02 PM   #5
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I bought a Rockler table on sale about 6 months ago and it's still sitting in the box. Can't wait to use it, but other projects have grabbed my attention and I haven't had the chance.

Check out this thread on another forum for many, many table ideas.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...our-table.html
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Old 02-11-2011, 04:08 PM   #6
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I built a router table using a drop in phenolic insert I got for about $10, and a T slot I bought from Rockler for about $15. Works quite well. For a fence, I purloined the fence from my shaper, which I never use. A good fence with independently adjustable infeed and outfeed is great, since it allows you to use the router table as a jointer. This is terrific for glue ups of panels.

Many of the bits you will want to use do not have bearings. In particular, I use straight bits for edge shaping, and a variety of shaped bits for profiling. Many times, you get better results if you do not use a bearing, rather use the fence. So my suggestion is buy a good fence, it will be worth it.
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Old 02-11-2011, 04:49 PM   #7
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I own a $100 outfit from Harbor Freight, 1 3/4 hp.

it may seem like a dinky useless router for bigger things, but it does the trick for crown molding, base board, and everything in between..if you scroll down in my post in the link below, you'll see the table i built around the table top $100 unit..


First house remodel

would a $500 router do a better job? maybe... probably faster anyhow.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
I built a router table using a drop in phenolic insert I got for about $10, and a T slot I bought from Rockler for about $15. Works quite well. For a fence, I purloined the fence from my shaper, which I never use. A good fence with independently adjustable infeed and outfeed is great, since it allows you to use the router table as a jointer. This is terrific for glue ups of panels.

Many of the bits you will want to use do not have bearings. In particular, I use straight bits for edge shaping, and a variety of shaped bits for profiling. Many times, you get better results if you do not use a bearing, rather use the fence. So my suggestion is buy a good fence, it will be worth it.
I have a Powermatic 6" jointer, so I won't be using the router table for that. Like I said in my OP, I will mostly be using it to break edges (sepcially on small and narrow stock rather than try to balance a hand held router) and maybe some panel work. And a lot of the edge work would be done with pins rather than a fence as I would probably be breaking all edges on one piece (say all side of an octagon). What other applications do you think I would want to run through a router table w/o bearings? My thought was to simply use a straight edge to flush the brg with the fence. I guess if I wanted to run a cove down the middle of a piece, the bearing would have to be off and that may be something I want to do in the future.

I appreciate everyone's comments. Keep em coming.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:58 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by WirelessG View Post
I have a Powermatic 6" jointer, so I won't be using the router table for that. Like I said in my OP, I will mostly be using it to break edges (sepcially on small and narrow stock rather than try to balance a hand held router) and maybe some panel work. And a lot of the edge work would be done with pins rather than a fence as I would probably be breaking all edges on one piece (say all side of an octagon). What other applications do you think I would want to run through a router table w/o bearings? My thought was to simply use a straight edge to flush the brg with the fence. I guess if I wanted to run a cove down the middle of a piece, the bearing would have to be off and that may be something I want to do in the future.

I appreciate everyone's comments. Keep em coming.
The beiring doesn't have to come off of the bit. When you use a fence to do a profile . You bring the fence where the opeing is . Use a Brass bar and put on the beiring and bring the fence over so the beirig just rub's . That is the most profile you will get. Also the fence doesn't have to be streight. I do router work for yrs and know a lot about the router. Also if you use a streight bit to do your glue up's get this fence. It is made for just that it is like 1/16" difference in the back part of the fence so that all you take off is the 1/16" Here is a http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.htm...product=F020of the fence or make one . You use a streight bit with a beiring on top. Now move the fence over tell the beiring just toutch's . Now you will get the right amount off. This is a good way to edge board's if you don't have a jointer. Check out the web site their are lot's of item's. I have all 3 fence's and the brass bar's. Now you can get the brass bar's at harbor freight. I don't buy nothing their don't like their stuff. Their are lot's of thing's you can do with the bar's like set the depth of bit and the width of the material you want to take off . also video on the table http://op.woodgrainonline.com/table/indexus.html
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Old 02-12-2011, 11:04 AM   #10
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Yeah, I watched a few episodes of the Router Workshop some years ago, and that table is quick and easy.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:06 PM   #11
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I think I will build my own, probably in the style of the oak park model. If I later decide that I need a router table with a metered fence system, then I will look into the Kreg again.

Thanks all.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:51 PM   #12
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Rockler and MLCS both make/sell some interesting router tables and router table kits. MLCS is always the first place I look for router bits and related accessories. Good prices, good quality and free shipping.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:13 PM   #13
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I decided to build the same router table that Norm Abrams made on the NYW, mostly because of the added storage compartments. I bought the sheet goods last night along with caster and drawer guides. It came out to $280! I couldn't believe that 3/4 birch is at $44. I haven't bought any for a couple years and it seems to me that it used to run $30 or so.

Oh well. It's a little pricey, but it gives me something to do for the next week or so.
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Old 04-01-2011, 04:40 AM   #14
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It depends upon the usage, if you create tables that will fit to your house and about the usage of it so do it, what satisfies you make you happy.

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