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Old 01-22-2008, 10:36 PM   #1
jud
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rigid bandsaw


Help!
I am having trouble getting my rigid bandsaw to cut stright. I am using a 3/8" blade and have adjusted the tension to the point of breaking the blade. The tire looks as if it is bowed and will not let the blade run true. I have reversed the tire and it runs off the wheel. Any suggestions anyone?

Jud

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Old 01-23-2008, 06:00 AM   #2
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rigid bandsaw


have you adjusted your upper and lower guides so that they are right behind the teeth, and as close as possible to the blade without actually touching? Also adjust the rear guides to be right behind the back edge of the blade. Then keep the guard as low as possible when cutting. Feed slowly.

How big is this bandsaw? 3/8" is a very small blade. Can you put a bigger blade on this? If this is a little plastic 9" bandsaw or something, you may be getting about as good performance as that little thing can deliver, but adjusting it may help.

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Old 01-23-2008, 06:35 AM   #3
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rigid bandsaw


Quote:
Originally Posted by NateHanson View Post
have you adjusted your upper and lower guides so that they are right behind the teeth, and as close as possible to the blade without actually touching? Also adjust the rear guides to be right behind the back edge of the blade. Then keep the guard as low as possible when cutting. Feed slowly.

How big is this bandsaw? 3/8" is a very small blade. Can you put a bigger blade on this? If this is a little plastic 9" bandsaw or something, you may be getting about as good performance as that little thing can deliver, but adjusting it may help.
Thanks nate

this is a 14"Rigid and i failed to mention, but started out with a wide blade
3/4" i think. i have made all the adjustments you have mentioned with no results, the saw works fine on curved cuts but straight cuts and re-saws are impossible and guides are no help at all.

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Old 01-23-2008, 11:26 AM   #4
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rigid bandsaw


It may be that you're trying to cut straight, like a tablesaw, where you cut parallel to the miter slots in the table.

On a bandsaw straight cuts need to be made at a slight angle to the table. It's called blade "drift", and you'll find you get a much straighter cut by feeding at a slight diagonal. Because the teeth are "set" to each side of the blade, the kerf is wider than the back of the blade. You'll get a more stable cut by resting one side of the kerf against the back of the blade. If you draw a line across a piece of wood, try moving the end close to you about an inch to the right, and lining up the other end with the blade, then feed at that angle. You just have to get a feel for the drift, and adjust to it. There will be more drift in thicker materials, and with faster feed rates. (meaning you have to move the close end of the workpiece a little further to the right).

As for blade size, 3/4 is probably pretty wide if you're doing more than resawing. I'd probably use a 1/2" blade for general use, but of course if you need tigher cut radii, you'll want to use that 3/8" blade.


Good luck.

Nate
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