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-   -   Porter Cable 135psi compressor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f29/porter-cable-135psi-compressor-15471/)

ski940 01-11-2008 06:35 AM

Porter Cable 135psi compressor
 
Hi,

I just bought a new compressor and nail gun set. I went through the
break in process as stated in the manual. My problem is that the drain
plug on the bottom of the compressor does not unscrew. I had to unscrew it with a wrench and let the compressor run for 15min. Then screw it in so
pressure rises in the tank. Even when the plug in screwed in all the way,
air comes screaming out of the center hole and the pressure remains 0. The
little nerled looks like you would be able to turn it by hand, but it is one with
the hex nut part that screws into the tank itself. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

Bondo 01-11-2008 08:44 AM

Quote:

The
little nerled looks like you would be able to turn it by hand, but it is one with
the hex nut part that screws into the tank itself.
Ayuh,.......

My Guess is,.....
The Petcock is Stuck in the outer fitting......
The Inner knurled piece should turn within the Hex fitting screwed into the tank.....

Maybe a Wrench,+ a set of Vise-grips will free it up....

End Grain 01-11-2008 07:46 PM

Home Depot sells a replacement "belly valve" (drain cock/bleed valve) and it comes with the blue threadlocker already on it so it's a very simple and inexpensive replacement at, if my memory serves me correctly, $4.

troubleseeker 01-12-2008 08:32 PM

Tighten the hex part snugly into the tank with a wrench, this part does not move for draining operations. Then unscrew (counter clockwise) the knurled knob, with your fingers. Sounds like you may have overtightened it already, so you may need pliers for the first time. Once working, it does not need any more than hand tight to seal the air. Air screams out of the hole, because it is screwed tightly into the open position right now. It is like a radiator drain cock, unscrewing it (counter clockwise) actually closes it, and what would normally be considered tightening (clockwise), is actually opening the valve. If it still leaks, you have tightened it so much, that the seal is damaged, and it will need replacement.

handyman78 01-14-2008 08:48 PM

I removed the original draincock on my older Craftsman compressor since it was often so hard to use. I replaced it with a simple ball valve drain I have seen on the new compressor models like Hitachi and Ridgid. Works great.

Bondo 01-14-2008 09:16 PM

Ayuh,........

I put 1 of These on my shop compressor......

http://i1.ebayimg.com/01/i/07/4e/44/35_1.JPG

scot clark 02-13-2008 01:28 PM

Bondo:
Where did you get that drain valve with the pull chord?

woodman51jfk 02-13-2008 08:27 PM

.......yeah Bondo...where....I gotta get one of those for my big shop compressor..........ball valve is much better than stock knurled valve, but that looks down right handy there!......and can it be pulled sideways to drain, or do you have to rig something so it pulls straight down.....?


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