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Old 01-25-2010, 10:57 AM   #1
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Ooooold table saw restoration.


Just thought I'd share:

I recently acquired an old table saw from my father. It was my grandfathers before he past away a few years ago. It has been sitting in my father's shed ever since.

The table saw is a Craftsman 8", circa 1948. I took the wire wheel to it, a wire brush, and a lot of of elbow grease and got it working great. The blade raises and tilts as it should, and the fence and pusher move smoothly. With a new blade I even ripped some boards down for a home improvement project I was working on this weekend.

The saw is driven by a belt, connected to a motor on the back. The motor is the original, and was working fine. Craftsman 1/2hp 3400rpm 120v motor. However, the wiring needed replacing - it was old and fraying in a few places. So, I took the 900 pound (only slightly exaggerating) motor off the saw and opened it up. It appears some of the wiring, which is probably first-generation plastic insulation, has partially melted to the windings of the motor. Furthermore, I'm having a hard time getting to the area where the wires connect to the motor.

So I'm wondering, obviously replacing this motor with a newer equivalent would be best. I don't want to pay nearly as much for a motor as I would pay for a whole table saw. I am, also, considering having the original rebuilt, for nostalgia's sake. Anyone have any idea what that would run?

THESE ARE NOT MY PICTURES, but this is an identical saw to the one I just got and hopefully what mine will look like after restoration: http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=9132

I'll get some pictures of my own up as soon as I can.


Last edited by hyunelan2; 01-25-2010 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:35 PM   #2
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Ooooold table saw restoration.


Pictures copied from link,

Ooooold table saw restoration.-ts.jpg

Ooooold table saw restoration.-ts1.jpg

Ooooold table saw restoration.-ts2.jpg

Ooooold table saw restoration.-ts4.jpg

Ooooold table saw restoration.-ts5.jpg

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Old 01-25-2010, 07:44 PM   #3
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Ooooold table saw restoration.


Here is the best motor rewinder in the area--Glen Ellyn Il.DREISILKER provides complete electric motor solutions and reliability services to commercial, industrial, and municipal customers. We specialize in Motor-Safe™ Repair to save your motor and save you energy.

You will need to bring a fat wallet with you. I've only had big industrial motors rebuilt there.
Give them a call--I'm sure they can give you a price on the phone.

The bracket on that saw makes swapping motors easy. You should not have any trouble finding a used motor that will work well with that saw.

Looks a lot like my dads old saw--a lot of good memories in that picture--Thanks--MIKE--
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:17 AM   #4
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Ooooold table saw restoration.


Rewinding an older motor like this will cost about as much as a new one.

If you decide to replace it, finding one that will bolt on to the existing holes in the mounting base will be very difficult.

If you're going to get a new or used motor, here's what to look for;

1) I know the original was 1/2HP, but I'd go with at least a 3/4HP or better yet, 1HP. Either of these will run on a basic 120 volt circuit. 1-1/2HP is questionable, 2HP not for very long.

2) The NEMA standard frame size for most 3/4 and 1HP motors built since 1964 will be 56 or 56H. It'll have a 5/8" shaft (56HZ usually has a 7/8" shaft), and the mounting holes will be 3" X 5". The 3" dimension is parallel to the shaft, the 5" is perpendicular. The 5" is not a hole, but a slot. The actual holes in the mounting base can be anywhere from 4-1/2" to 5-1/2".

3) Motors come in two basic types, ODP (Open Drip-Proof) and TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled). There are others, but these are the most common. An ODP will work, but it'll draw sawdust into the inside of it. This will shorten its life somewhat. A TEFC type is enclosed, and has a fan on the outside for cooling. No sawdust will get inside. Obviously, this type is better.

4) Thermal protection. Since a tablesaw is very easy to overload, the motor absolutely must have some sort of thermal protection. There are two basic types, manual reset and automatic reset. On a small motor like this, the thermal is usually built-in. An auto-reset will start the motor automatically once it has cooled. Even if your hand is on the blade. Get a manual reset. It has a button you push to reset once the motor has cooled. Much safer on a power tool.

5). Almost all motors like this can be wired to run in either direction, but check to make sure.

Those are the basics, if you need more info, just post the questions.

Rob
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:59 AM   #5
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Ooooold table saw restoration.


I actually found a replacement motor on Craigslist that matched the original specs. The guy who sold it (an electrician) said it was ordered for a job, but was incorrect, so it has been sitting in his shed for years. I paid $25 for the Marathon 1/2hp, 3450rpm 120/240v reversible motor. Another $10 was spent for a new pulley to fit the 5/8" shaft. It bolted right up.

I wired it up to a simple lightswitch that I mounted on the stand. $35 and it's up and running. The flash in these pictures makes it look kind-of rusty. Though it is, it's all been ground/brushed down smooth now. I think my next step will be replacing the stand, or at least the casters on this one. Here are some pictures I just ran out and took.

I want to find the matching insert for dado blades. Looking at the ancient owners manual online, it came with one originally, but is not there now. I would also like to track-down the bolt-on extensions for the table.
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Ooooold table saw restoration.-img_4870-medium-.jpg  

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Old 02-01-2010, 08:17 AM   #6
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Ooooold table saw restoration.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hyunelan2 View Post
I want to find the matching insert for dado blades. Looking at the ancient owners manual online, it came with one originally, but is not there now. I would also like to track-down the bolt-on extensions for the table.
I've got parts for an older Craftsman 100. What is the depth of your top? If its 27" I've got an extension wing. Also measure your insert I believe I have a new one laying around. Plus other parts, I need to get rid of. If you are interested PM me.

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