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Startingover 09-21-2013 06:44 AM

oiling chain saw
The electric pruning saw I'm returning (Ryobi) had an automatic oiler. I like that idea. The saw I bought and kept, Remington, I have to push a button to oil the chain before each time I use it.

But, is pushing the oil button once enough? If I'm trimming branches for half an hr should I push that oil button midway thru my work? Is there danger to over oiling?

Also I'm worried I won't keep the chain as tight as possible but directions seem clear on looking for a gap between the chain and the guide bar.

Also worried I won't know when the chain need sharpened. Maybe after using it and getting used to how it cuts I'll be able to tell later when it's not cutting as well as now when it's new. I wonder about how many hours it can be used before it needs sharpened? Do most people sharpen their own chain or have a repair shop do it. Are replacement chains expensive or hard to put on?

thank you

RoyalAcresRod 09-21-2013 06:56 AM

Pushing the oil button every 5 minutes or so is a good idea...more if doing heavy cutting.

Do leave a little slack in the chain.. New chains will get loose and need adjusting often..

You'll know when it needs sharpening. As you implied, you'll get to know how it cuts and know when it's not.

I used to sharpen my chainsaw blades. Now I keep a couple sharpened and take the one in that needs sharpening. You'll find it's easy to replace. Use the opportunity to clean the cover when it's off.

Watch the orientation of the blades when you replace the chain so you don't put it on backward. Ask me how I know.

oh'mike 09-21-2013 07:00 AM

You need a good bit of oil on the chain--so press that oiler button every minute or so--you can not over oil the chain---but you sure can burn up a chain in a hurry if it is not oiled---

Learn to analyze the size of the chips--a sharp chain cuts long shreds ---then big chips----and when dull---powder----

I have tried all kinds of sharpening aids----but have settled in on a hand held round file-----

daveb1 09-21-2013 07:04 AM

What Mike said. Touch up the chain with a round file every time you stop for a break.

Startingover 09-21-2013 07:23 AM

I'm thankful for this site. Most often when I go to my big box stores I get a clerk that doesn't know anything. I like to be prepared for that.

If I go to the tool section of the store, will I easily find a round file?

Maybe I can find a utube video on how to sharpen. The directions that came with my pruning saw have a lot of mistakes, even if I don't know a lot I know they show a diagram for one thing but talk about something else. Or it references one page when the info I need is on another page, so I don't really trust these directions.

oh'mike 09-21-2013 07:50 AM

Chain saw files are usually for sale right next to the bar oil and other accessories---

If the chain is still sharp (not allowed to get really dull) two to thee strokes --pushing and spinning the file--is all that it takes to keep the blade in top shape---

You will need to practice---keep the angle of the original cut---do not back drag the file----that is bad for the file and will dull your blade,due to chatter---

It's not hard--It would be easier for learn if you had a teacher----But you will figure it out----push the file to cut---do not back drag the file---

Startingover 09-21-2013 09:14 AM

thanks Mike, sounds like something I could do.

NOW.......on the type of oil. I am suppose to "use motor oil as bar oil is too thick and wouldn't oil properly".

My instructions said use 30 weight motor oil. Then it says use SAE 40 for temps over 75. Probably here in Fla I'll be using this in temps over 75 degrees.

Went to Walmart and all the oil was SAE 5 or SAE 10, but I did find a Castor brand that was SAE 30 so bought that since that was the best option.

Why was SAE 40 hard to find?

oh'mike 09-21-2013 09:34 AM

Use what the maker recommends--the oil port hole in that saw might be sized for the thinner motor oil---

Bar oil is very thick and sticky----with a gas chainsaw the chain moves faster than the electrics---so the thicker oil does not fly off---

The chain files come in two sizes---your saw ,most likely, uses the smaller one---

Startingover 09-21-2013 10:39 AM

Wow. I love the saw part and easily cut low palm branches off.

Now..........I can't get the saw head attached to the pole :(

This is my Remington RM0815P or RM1015P. Will try googling help.

oh'mike 09-21-2013 06:33 PM

I like the electric chain saws----For most yard maintenance they get the job done---

Startingover 09-21-2013 07:18 PM

Got the saw attached easily to the pole, (once I reread directions).

LOVE IT! But it did tire my arm quickly. Still trying to figure out how to tighten the chain.

oh'mike 09-21-2013 08:09 PM

Read the instructions!!:laughing:

One or two nuts hold the bar--loosen them a bit---a screw is usually turned to pull the bar forward--then snug up the bar bolts.

Startingover 09-21-2013 08:38 PM

"One or two nuts hold the bar--loosen them a bit---a screw is usually turned to pull the bar forward--then snug up the bar bolts."

yes, there are 2 nuts on one side...........and one on the opposite side.
I guess what I don't understand is why I'd loosed the bar, when I want to tighten everything. If I pull the bar forward will I pull it out altogether?

I'm sure once I figure this out it won't seem so hard.

I can tell a big difference in my yard just from what I've cut back today.

oh'mike 09-21-2013 08:59 PM

the bar will slide forward only when you have loosed the side bolts---the adjuster is to delicate to hold the bar when it is running---

look in the instructions--to find the small adjuster screw-----it will be on the blade side of the machine---

Startingover 09-21-2013 10:03 PM

Looked for adjuster screw.........and nothing. I do see how the 2 side bolts hold the blade on and I see the slot on the blade where it can move. The light isn't very good in the garage. Will look at it tomorrow. I really like this little saw, especially that it's so light, but it looks like it's all made of plastic. I also saw a bunch of twigs and leaves stuck up in the saw, near where it's attached to the motor and I used my fingers and a screwdriver and got them all out. Seems like there should be a screen there to prevent that.

Just with what I've done today I feel very mechanical.

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