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Old 01-08-2012, 04:54 PM   #31
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miter or circular saw


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk
this fellow was direclty over his 6yr old grandson while letting them use it. as for him being an idiot.... i dont think so. this journeyman carpenter has trained well over 500 registered apprentices, many of which have gone on to become journeyman carpenters who are very successful. my self being one of them
I don't care if he owns a carpenter school. He's an idiot.

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Old 01-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #32
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miter or circular saw


whatever,, the kid is fine .. the point being a mitre saw is far safer than a circular saw. as someone who makes their living using power tools and knows multiple people who have cut themselves on power tools.. the mitre saw isnt one of them.. the only injuries ive known caused by mitre saws from trying to carry extremely heavy models which injured someones lower back.. circ saws and table saws on other hand.. ive seen the results of these tools
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:42 PM   #33
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miter or circular saw


well could somebody answer my question.

for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:02 PM   #34
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miter or circular saw


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Originally Posted by s002wjh View Post
well could somebody answer my question.

for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?
Nope.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:14 PM   #35
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miter or circular saw


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Originally Posted by s002wjh
well could somebody answer my question.

for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?
Whatever you feel comfortable with.

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Old 01-08-2012, 07:15 PM   #36
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miter or circular saw


I suggest that the OP buy a hand crosscut saw since he is SO concerned about safety. Some people should just not use power tools. I saw that when I was running our local Habitat affiliate. I set up a cut station where people would bring the board marked to be cut by one of the people I trusted to use the power tools.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:15 PM   #37
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miter or circular saw


Both need to be used correctly or can hurt..

If you're using a skillsaw, make sure you have sawhorses or a proper work platform, if you haven't used one much.

A mitre saw may be more versatile for trim and framing, however if you need to cut 5 doors for new flooring, your mitre saw isn't going to be much good.

Isn't really a question of which one is better, they are different tools that are used for the same tasks, as well as particular tasks that are suited for each one. If you are doing nothing but trim, buy a mitre saw. If you are doing nothing but framing and building compost boxes and maybe building a fence, buy a skilsaw and some sawhorses.

The mitre saw can do trim, which a skillsaw really is not suited for.

A skillsaw can rip lumber, plywood, doors, flooring, etc.

Depends on what your needs are
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:24 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by s002wjh View Post
well could somebody answer my question.

for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?
When I replaced my old Craftsman circular saw I picked up a nice Milwaulkee with a left side blade. The norm for corded models is right sided. Being right-handed, I love the blade on the left side because I don't have to lean over the saw to see my cut line.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:32 PM   #39
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[QUOTE="mem"]

When I replaced my old Craftsman circular saw I picked up a nice Milwaulkee with a left side blade. The norm for corded models is right sided. Being right-handed, I love the blade on the left side because I don't have to lean over the saw to see my cut



Nevermind.
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:14 PM   #40
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miter or circular saw


If you can't buy both, then buy the circular saw and then learn how to use it safely, a circular saw can do almost anything a chop saw can do using clamped on guides.

I know (1) good key thing to keep in mind, is always use the correct blade for the job (on either saw) and always make sure that it is sharp, dull blades will create some real problems related to safe tool use.

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Old 02-17-2012, 02:43 AM   #41
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Read a lot of stuff here that makes a lot of sense and as others pointed out, less sense. Also noticed some missed tidbits and alternate types of information that may be handy. From my point of view, for you based on what you said (as a couple others said), I would fully endorse looking into a miter saw, preferably a sliding compound miter saw for maximum capability. I can probably do 90% of the things with a miter saw that I have ever had use for a skilsaw with. I do agree- there is a LOT you can't do with a miter saw, but there is a lot more that you can still do- and do safely. From a personal perspective, I do a lot more trim and finish work which is the stuff that you actually see as we all know, and if you're ocd with wanting to make a good impression and do the work perfectly, it's the finish work that will show off your work to friends and yourself. Most framing in general can be taken care of safely albeit at a slower pace (which brings you around the circle again to doing this safer) with the miter saw.

Some alternative suggestions: Maybe consider getting a Sliding Compound Miter Saw (probably 10", most people really don't need a 12" unless you are doing massive crown molding or need a longer cut that you can't flip the board and continue a cut) and a sawzall/reciprocating saw. Sawzalls- especially corded ones, are powerful enough to help you complete the other half of anything you can't really do with the miter saws.

Selection of tool: Test it BEFORE you buy it!!! I can not stress this enough. I bough my skilsaw (a Bosch 15amp, basically- the exact same as the standard skilsaws) and had no idea of the torque generated when you turn it on- it has a good deal of heft to the saw, but man- even my significantly more skilled and beefy friends who have used this agree- there is so much torque that turning it on twists everyone's arm and if you don't know to expect this- it's very dangerous. So make sure you can test out what you buy in a controlled environment like a local tool shop (not a big box like Home Depot/Lowe's unless you look in their tool rentals) with someone who can help give you some tips.

Additionally, get some reviews of the tool you decide to get- and make sure they are truly detailed. Someone mentioned that any saw has a lot of kick when it turns on, which is true- but I had no idea how amazing my new Makita was with its so-called slow start which pretty much eliminated the massive torque in the start. Maybe you already know all of this, maybe not- just my 2 cents, trying to help Good luck bro.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:35 AM   #42
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Read a lot of stuff here that makes a lot of sense and as others pointed out, less sense. Also noticed some missed tidbits and alternate types of information that may be handy. From my point of view, for you based on what you said (as a couple others said), I would fully endorse looking into a miter saw, preferably a sliding compound miter saw for maximum capability. I can probably do 90% of the things with a miter saw that I have ever had use for a skilsaw with. I do agree- there is a LOT you can't do with a miter saw, but there is a lot more that you can still do- and do safely. From a personal perspective, I do a lot more trim and finish work which is the stuff that you actually see as we all know, and if you're ocd with wanting to make a good impression and do the work perfectly, it's the finish work that will show off your work to friends and yourself. Most framing in general can be taken care of safely albeit at a slower pace (which brings you around the circle again to doing this safer) with the miter saw.

Some alternative suggestions: Maybe consider getting a Sliding Compound Miter Saw (probably 10", most people really don't need a 12" unless you are doing massive crown molding or need a longer cut that you can't flip the board and continue a cut) and a sawzall/reciprocating saw. Sawzalls- especially corded ones, are powerful enough to help you complete the other half of anything you can't really do with the miter saws.

Selection of tool: Test it BEFORE you buy it!!! I can not stress this enough. I bough my skilsaw (a Bosch 15amp, basically- the exact same as the standard skilsaws) and had no idea of the torque generated when you turn it on- it has a good deal of heft to the saw, but man- even my significantly more skilled and beefy friends who have used this agree- there is so much torque that turning it on twists everyone's arm and if you don't know to expect this- it's very dangerous. So make sure you can test out what you buy in a controlled environment like a local tool shop (not a big box like Home Depot/Lowe's unless you look in their tool rentals) with someone who can help give you some tips.

Additionally, get some reviews of the tool you decide to get- and make sure they are truly detailed. Someone mentioned that any saw has a lot of kick when it turns on, which is true- but I had no idea how amazing my new Makita was with its so-called slow start which pretty much eliminated the massive torque in the start. Maybe you already know all of this, maybe not- just my 2 cents, trying to help Good luck bro.
i didn't know about the torque when turn on. something to note. yeah for my work mitersaw might be better, since i need do trim, and i don't have skill to do a good trim via skilsaw.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:02 PM   #43
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Yea. The torque issue is almost always present in the bulk of any electronic power tool- at least on the ones that are powerful. Thankfully in most cases, it's limited to when you turn the tool on, a huge surge of power flows through the tool to get it started and then as it runs, it evens out (also like a garbage disposal in your kitchen sink, which is why you need a dedicated circuit, because of the amount of power it draws)- much like starting a truck on a cool morning. Until the engine warms up, it will run louder like it might break until it's had a chance to warm up. The good news is tools lose the massive overflow right away.

Some tools deal with this like my Makita, the LS1016L and I know they have a 12" version as well, both of which they say has a soft start which reduces that pick up torque. I know on our old 10" delta, if I turned it on while slightly holding it down, it would kick up with the starting of the blade until it got up to speed. This Makita builds up speed almost as fast, but slow enough to remove the torque kick which helps. Definitely something to be aware of. Good luck
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:24 PM   #44
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Shoot for about $100 you can have one of each at HarborFreight.

Perfectly fine for beginners.....
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:57 PM   #45
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...you can have one of each at HarborFreight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...saw-98058.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...saw-91995.html

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