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Old 12-08-2009, 12:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Thurman View Post
Er-I have that same router table. I have many hours of use on it with no problem. In your pictures I see that you may have the black wood guide on your right side on backwards. The beveled edge on mine is near the cutter. The bevel gives the guide clearance when the fence is near the cutter, flip it end over end. The top picture is not real clear to me, but the guide on that side appears to be incorrectly installed also. Note the two clamp knobs which hold the entire fence in place: I changed the bolts on mine to longer carriage bolts with the heads filed down to fit into the slots underneath. I then found some spacers so that the clamp knobs would be higher up and easier to reach. Remember that this is not a real high dollar router table, it's basically, IMO, a home, use once-in-a-while version. I'm currently working on a fine adjustment to move the fence in/out. Thanks, David

I'll check that later, the 1st picture is just a picture of the table to have as reference when you see the close-ups, and the metal "shim" on the out-feed table is out on the 1st pic, probably that's what caught your attention.

I'll try later and report back



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Old 12-31-2009, 02:36 PM   #17
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Hey wwpro,

I know this thread is about a month old, but what did you do? I would like to get a router table, but after a really bad experience with Ryobi I refuse to buy anything else they make
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Old 01-02-2010, 06:17 PM   #18
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I have 2 of those really cheap Craftsman router tables. Never had a problem with them.
The ads in my post are there without my permission. I do not endorse any of the products.
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:59 PM   #19
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I built mine - fence, jigs, all but the T-tracs. Not to brag, but it's slightly better than DM's. I just couldn't use on of the small tables and couldn't justify the prices, especially years ago when I built mine and was working out of a 4x5' toolshed at an apartment.

Forgot the main reason I built my own - all the ones with their own stands were too short and I hated having to bend all the time, especially since it made me more vulnerable to a high-velocity blade! This way, more of my weight and center of gravity is below the table top in case I fall or my knees should buckle from the long cuts.

I made an insert for my table saw just recently and had my doubts about the height when I was rounding some long strips of basemoulding...YIKES!
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Last edited by DIYtestdummy; 01-20-2010 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 05:14 PM   #20
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mouse thats all you need unless you are removing material from piece. I have a 3'x3' melamine top with centered router , melamine L shape fence ,clamps and screws. Works first time every time for what I need
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Old 01-19-2010, 05:30 PM   #21
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I built a router table using a drop in plastic insert I got from
Rockler, works nicely in a MDO base. I also use an adjustable two piece fence I took off a shaper. I never use the shaper, the router table does everything, but the great thing about a two part fence is that by adjusting the infeed to be say 1/64 inch further in than the outfeed, and using a 3 inch high 1/2 inch diameter straight bit, you can achieve really smooth jointing of long boards for glue ups such as table tops. For normal routing, the fence is aligned so that it is straight. As previously noted, the fence also needs to be adjustable to provide minimal clearance around the bit, else you run the risk of tearout or kickback. I also use a clear bit guard to minimize the chance of wood bits hitting me in the face, good safety feature.


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