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Old 03-30-2014, 11:54 AM   #31
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


My neighbor has a Ryobi " drive cordless impact and just to see if it worked on my PU (dodge ram) and it torque the nuts up to 100# which is the proper torque. Now I have to get me one!

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Old 03-30-2014, 01:00 PM   #32
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
Not if the lug nut was tightened properly.
I wouldn't be so sure. For a lot of people "tightened properly" means hammering in it with an air impact wrench, which is usually way over tightened. If you took the rust off of your lugs with a wire brush and some elbow grease, then tightened the lug nuts to the manufacturers specs wih a torque wrench, you'd be surprised how easy they are to remove with just a lug wrench. The manufacturer's specs for my pickup are 78 ft lb, which isn't a lot of torque.
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:24 PM   #33
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


DeWalt lists several impact drivers (not impact Wrenches) up past 100 ft lbs. of torque even in the 12v models.
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:42 PM   #34
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


Why I know it was 100# is because I checked it with my torque wrench. Which is the torque for my Dodge Ram.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:19 PM   #35
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


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Originally Posted by A Squared View Post
I wouldn't be so sure. For a lot of people "tightened properly" means hammering in it with an air impact wrench, which is usually way over tightened.

There is only one properly. I didn't say tighten by opinion of tight enough.

If you took the rust off of your lugs with a wire brush and some elbow grease, then tightened the lug nuts to the manufacturers specs wih a torque wrench, you'd be surprised how easy they are to remove with just a lug wrench. The manufacturer's specs for my pickup are 78 ft lb, which isn't a lot of torque.
So you think the impact shown in the OP is going to do 78 ft lbs.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:40 PM   #36
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


I was suprised to see how widely torque rating varied between vehicles. from 50lbs on a bentley to 200+ on hd trucks. Even same model chances vastly for different years.

http://www.discounttire.com/infoCent...eelTorque.html

The porter cable manufacture rates it at 1450 inch/pounds which is 120 foot/pounds.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:53 PM   #37
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


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Originally Posted by JustinK View Post
I was suprised to see how widely torque rating varied between vehicles. from 50lbs on a bentley to 200+ on hd trucks. Even same model chances vastly for different years.

http://www.discounttire.com/infoCent...eelTorque.html

The porter cable manufacture rates it at 1450 inch/pounds which is 120 foot/pounds.
okay, more then I thought it had.
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:08 PM   #38
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


Its hard to believe a 1/4" shaft could ever transfer than much torque without snapping.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:20 AM   #39
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


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Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
So you think the impact shown in the OP is going to do 78 ft lbs.
Yep, sure do Just by coincidence, today was my biannual tire swapping day. WIth this thread in mind, I tried out my impact driver. It's noting special, an 18 V Dewalt DC825. FWIW, my impact driver has a lower torque rating than the one shown in the OP. It loosened the lugs pretty handily. Not as smartly as a good sized pneumatic impact wrench. I was also changing tires on a buddy's car. He subscribes more to the "tighter then down good" philoisophy, so no idea what they were torqued to, but they were tighter than the mine. My impact driver took those of also.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:13 AM   #40
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


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Originally Posted by A Squared View Post
Yep, sure do Just by coincidence, today was my biannual tire swapping day. WIth this thread in mind, I tried out my impact driver. It's noting special, an 18 V Dewalt DC825. FWIW, my impact driver has a lower torque rating than the one shown in the OP. It loosened the lugs pretty handily. Not as smartly as a good sized pneumatic impact wrench. I was also changing tires on a buddy's car. He subscribes more to the "tighter then down good" philoisophy, so no idea what they were torqued to, but they were tighter than the mine. My impact driver took those of also.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:04 AM   #41
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


The one I use is " drive with a rating of 200 ft. lbs. It is 18V and it uses the same battery as my drill/driver.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:18 AM   #42
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


Well, I'm sold. I'll be finding an 18V 1/2" Dewalt since I already have a bunch of 18V tools and batteries.
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:25 AM   #43
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


I believe I am responsible for derailing this thread. Here's my attempt to get it back on track. When someone asked about the cordless impacts, they were referring to the 1/4" drive for screws and small bolts. Something that most people use a cordless drill for.

At the time, I just saw "impact" and the first thing I thought of was the pneumatic impact tools for working on cars. I didn't know the difference and asked if I could pull lugnuts off with one.

After doing some reading, I have found that this thread started out asking about Impact Drivers. What I was looking for was an Impact Wrench. There is a difference.

Impact drivers usually have a quick change bit on them, and the power it delivers is measured in in/lbs.

Impact wrenches come in standard ratchet sizes (3/8", 1/2", 3/4"). They create more torque, which is measured in ft/lbs.

Another way to think about it is this: The driver is for bolts. The wrench is for nuts. The thread was asking about bolts, and I was looking for nuts.

But, I did find what I was looking for.



I used it to rotate the tires on my truck. I had all 5 lugnuts off of the first wheel in the time it would have taken me to get 1 of them off with a 4-way, and they were torqued on with a pneumatic impact from the local tire shop. It took me longer to get the truck up on jack stands, than it did to rotate all 4 wheels. I look forward to wearing this tool out.

Now, my gf gets to learn how to change brakes on her truck. She goes through a set of pads twice as fast as I do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by landfillwizard View Post
My neighbor has a Ryobi " drive cordless impact and just to see if it worked on my PU (dodge ram) and it torque the nuts up to 100# which is the proper torque. Now I have to get me one!
The only thing that stopped me from getting the Ryobi was that the DeWalt was stronger.

Ryobi = 200 ft. lbs. of torque
DeWalt = 300 ft. lb. of torque

Last edited by r0ckstarr; 04-04-2014 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:00 PM   #44
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


A cordless impact driver uses 1/4" hex drive bits, while an impact wrench has a square drive and uses sockets. I've used a socket adapter in my impact driver to run some pretty hefty lag screws and it worked fine. I used it to change the wheels on my golf cart too, but I don't know if it's got the ooomf to loosen the lugs on my truck. That impact wrench is on my "need to own" list.
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:20 PM   #45
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Can Someone Explain The Whole Drill/Driver Thing? Impact Driver As well Please?


The 3 things they can engineer into 1 driver - the drill, the hammer drill, and the screw driver. The clutch (for the screw driver) is fairly easy to add. The drill is just having the clutch completely off. The hammer drill (for pounding bits into concrete) is usually a separate drill but it works with the flip of a button.

The impact driver is too different of a mechanism to fit into the save tool. But who knows? Maybe someday you'll see a single driver that can do all of that.

If you've ever tried to drive in a difficult screw with an impact driver, you'll never go back to using a regular drill driver to do it. It's just so powerful. It can take a screw and just go straight through the piece of wood without stopping. If your bit is long enough, you could drive it in a foot and right out the other side.

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