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Old 01-18-2010, 11:59 AM   #16
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Best Mitersaw for a homeowner


No matter what saw you buy make sure you replace the blade right away with a high quality one. You can buy a cheap saw and get a quality blade and have a good setup. It seems crazy spending half the price of the saw on a good blade but it really does make a huge difference. 10" blades aren't to expensive but I have a 12" bosch saw that I have a 100 dollar blade on. When I first got the saw the blade on it seemed alright and cut everything but after a couple years and reading about blades I paid for a quality blade and after seeing how easy it cuts and how nice of a cut it leaves I won't ever buy a cheap blade again. My blade on my circular saw cost more than some of the cheaper saws cost. It also adds safety because you don't have to push as hard. Just have to remember how much the blade costs when you are cutting and make smart cuts by not cutting threw staples or nails or anything else that might damage the blade. Also don't use a good blade to cut laminate flooring, it is hard on the blades and will ruin a good blade real quick. I learned that the hard way.

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Old 01-18-2010, 01:02 PM   #17
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Tool-Hound (on finehomebuilding.com) has some good reviews of sliding compound miters (not sure how up-to-date they are.) I personally like the Makita LS1016L and as soon as I have the money plan on buying one.

It never hurts to swing by your local hardware or box store and tinker with the saws on the shelf for a few minutes to get a feel for the different makes and models.
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:46 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ponch37300 View Post
No matter what saw you buy make sure you replace the blade right away with a high quality one. You can buy a cheap saw and get a quality blade and have a good setup. It seems crazy spending half the price of the saw on a good blade but it really does make a huge difference. 10" blades aren't to expensive but I have a 12" bosch saw that I have a 100 dollar blade on. When I first got the saw the blade on it seemed alright and cut everything but after a couple years and reading about blades I paid for a quality blade and after seeing how easy it cuts and how nice of a cut it leaves I won't ever buy a cheap blade again. My blade on my circular saw cost more than some of the cheaper saws cost. It also adds safety because you don't have to push as hard. Just have to remember how much the blade costs when you are cutting and make smart cuts by not cutting threw staples or nails or anything else that might damage the blade. Also don't use a good blade to cut laminate flooring, it is hard on the blades and will ruin a good blade real quick. I learned that the hard way.

Yeah. Along with the saw that only came with 36 teeth saw blade, I purchased a 60 teeth saw blade to cut my molding. I did see a big difference between these two cuts. I though of going to 80 teeth but it seemed expensive. I am good with 60 teeth now.
If we don't use good blades for lamination flooring, what blades should be used ? less teeth or more teeth ? If you less teeth the cut would not be smoother, right ?
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:49 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by speedster1 View Post
I am kind of in the same boat as you are. I'm getting read to redo the base molding and crown molding in my house. Obviously I'd like to have a hi-tech 12" sliding dual bevel saw but I can't afford $600. I'll probably be content to get a standard 10" saw due to their low cost and more portable size. I've been looking at the two Hitachi's from Lowes $139/$169 along with the two Ryobi's from Home Depot $99/$129. The $129 Ryobi from Home Depot has kind of peaked my interest because it comes with two extenders and a Crown molding clamp. But I think the Hitachi is a better overall machine. I tend to avoid craftsman because it's like playing Russian Roullette with what type of quality you are getting.

cprao - The problem you are having with only a single 45 degree bevel is common with lower end Miter Saws. If you want both you have to buy one that has "dual-bevel". And the prices go way up when you do that.

An easy way to cut crown without using the bevel is to insert the board upside down and in it's natural angled position (Not flat). Picture the miter base as the ceiling and the fence as the wall. Place your board in position so that the back two bases of the molding lay flat against the saw and fence. Set your saw to a standard 45 degree Miter and cut the board while making sure you are holding them firmly. There are several videos on youtube and on google.
Thank you for the advise on miter saw set up though I have not understood exactly, I can see videos from youtube to understand the setup. It would be great, if I can reduce the time spent on cutting by using this setup.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:23 PM   #20
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I usually just use a cheap 40 tooth. The cuts don't have to "smooth", they get covered up with base anyway. Just buy a cheap blade and plan on throwing it away after 500-1000 sq. ft. of laminate. I usually have my good 96 tooth blade for trim and woodworking and then a couple other cheap blades that I will put on for laminate or other jobs that might be questionable material to cut.

Use one of these for crown molding. Makes the job really easy.
http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-0...3860722&sr=8-2

Last edited by ponch37300; 01-18-2010 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:13 PM   #21
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Cprao. Thanks for reporting back on your decision. Your comments help us all.

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Originally Posted by cprao View Post
One more thing is that when I cut angles, it cuts outside of the laser not right on the laser.
Very common, The January JLC has a review of the new $600 Makita LS1016L Miter Saw. The reviewer at first had trouble adjusting the laser. After reading the manual he found that it had a very sophisticated laser that could be fine tuned to align with either side of the blade.

Check your manual to see if there are any user adjustments on the Laser. If not I would try to get a service manual or call Ryobi to get the Laser where I wanted it to be. The Pro's usually like the beam not to be in the center of the cut.

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Old 01-18-2010, 09:02 PM   #22
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Cprao. Thanks for reporting back on your decision. Your comments help us all.

Very common, The January JLC has a review of the new $600 Makita LS1016L Miter Saw. The reviewer at first had trouble adjusting the laser. After reading the manual he found that it had a very sophisticated laser that could be fine tuned to align with either side of the blade.

Check your manual to see if there are any user adjustments on the Laser. If not I would try to get a service manual or call Ryobi to get the Laser where I wanted it to be. The Pro's usually like the beam not to be in the center of the cut.
.
Even, in fact, I liked the way the currently the laser works. It acts as a guide where my cut would be when I am cutting angles. for a straight or square cut, it is right on the laser.. so it is good.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:08 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ponch37300 View Post
I usually just use a cheap 40 tooth. The cuts don't have to "smooth", they get covered up with base anyway. Just buy a cheap blade and plan on throwing it away after 500-1000 sq. ft. of laminate. I usually have my good 96 tooth blade for trim and woodworking and then a couple other cheap blades that I will put on for laminate or other jobs that might be questionable material to cut.

Use one of these for crown molding. Makes the job really easy.
http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-0...3860722&sr=8-2
Great, I will remember this when I get to crowm molding.. currently I am doing Base molding..
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:33 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by cprao View Post
Finally, I brought a Ryobi 15 AMP, 10" blade mitersaw on Friday from home depot. I did some base molding work on Saturday and Sunday.

So far, the experience with this miter saw is good.

However, I can only cut 45 degree angle from one side. The saw only moves to the left to make a inside 45 degree angle. If I have to make an outside 45 degree I need turn the molding.. I was expecting the saw to move 45 degree either the angle.. I

One more thing is that when I cut angles, it cuts outside of the laser not right on the laser.

Any one had any similar experiences with Ryobi ?
Yeah, I used that exact saw for about 120 feet of chair rail and over 400 feet worth of faux wainscoting. Do yourself a favor and replace the blade with a decent 60-tooth or better blade and you should be good to go. The laser shows the very edge of the left side of the blade. Once I got used to that I found it to actually to be pretty useful for cutting the 45's for the faux wainscoting boxes.

Last edited by campos202; 01-19-2010 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:20 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by campos202 View Post
Yeah, I used that exact saw for about 120 feet of chair rail and over 400 feet worth of faux wainscoting. Do yourself a favor and replace the blade with a decent 60-tooth or better blade and you should be good to go. The laser shows the very edge of the left side of the blade. Once I got used to that I found it to actually to be pretty useful for cutting the 45's for the faux wainscoting boxes.
Yes. I bought a 6-tooth blade along with this saw machine for my base molding.. So far I am good.
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:59 PM   #26
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When I originally got the 10-yr-old-plus saw shown in post #11, I immediately installed a 60-tooth finishing blade. Never changed it since. Despite using it over the years for many varied projects, including hundreds of cuts on laminate flooring and hundreds more on hardwood, it still works like a charm today when cutting detailed trim.

Good thing. I'd change it out anyway, but the darn thing's frozen in now...

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