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Old 12-06-2009, 06:26 PM   #1
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Best Mitersaw for a homeowner


I am planning to do my basemolding and crownmolding myself to my home.
If the works out good, I also plan to do framing for my mirrors and any other future home wood works. Now I am currently shopping for mitersaws.

I have found couple of manufactures in the market..

Craftsman
Hitachi
Dewalt
Delta Shopmaster
makita

I am looking for perfect straight/angeled cuts with a dust collection bag. Any one has any specific recommendations, please ?

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Last edited by cprao; 12-06-2009 at 07:50 PM. Reason: spelled Makita wrong
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:44 PM   #2
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Best Mitersaw for a homeowner


l have a hatachi 7" compound that pulls to 12" would buy it over and over ,no problems, keeps on gettin up, have had it for many years

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Old 12-06-2009, 07:26 PM   #3
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Best Mitersaw for a homeowner


Hitachi makes a nice saw so does Makita.
Buy the best one you can afford and invest in a high quality blade, you will not regret it.
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmchairDIY View Post
Hitachi makes a nice saw so does Makita.
Buy the best one you can afford and invest in a high quality blade, you will not regret it.
I shortlisted following saw's based on the price and the popular manufacturers.

Following 2 are from Hitachi in the price range I am comfortable with:
1)
A) Hitachi C10FCE2 10-Inch Compound Miter Saw ($124)

B) Hitachi C10FCH2 10-Inch Miter Saw with Laser ($149)

Both are 15 AMp, 10" Blade, 5000 RPM - Question - How does the Laser feature make a difference ? Can some one please comment on this one ?
2)
Next, the cheapest one on Makita is -
Makita LS1040 10-Inch Compound Miter saw ($191)
15 AMP, 10" Blade - Is this better than Hitachi ?

3) DEWALT DW713 Heavy-Duty 10 - This is $207..

Any comments on these items ?
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:32 PM   #5
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Used to be the Hitachi was the favorite of the trim guys, 10-15 years ago or more. Those models were imported from Japan and were very accurate. Eventually, the cost to mfg in Japan and import got too high and the saw was 'value engineered' until it was similar to the Makita and others.
We have been buying Makita for a few years but don't use them for real accurate work, for that we set up a jig on the table saw or use the sliding table saw.

I think most any of the 10" saws in your price range will be similar and provide accurate enough cuts if you set them up right and don't push them, let the blade eat.
What ArmchairDIY said about a quality blade is important-a good blade like a Forrest will make any saw work better.

Lots of guys now think the Festool is the gold standard. Maybe, if you got the gold to pay for one : )
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:35 PM   #6
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BTW, here is a site that might have some information as well...

http://www.tool-rank.com/
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7echo View Post
Used to be the Hitachi was the favorite of the trim guys, 10-15 years ago or more. Those models were imported from Japan and were very accurate. Eventually, the cost to mfg in Japan and import got too high and the saw was 'value engineered' until it was similar to the Makita and others.
We have been buying Makita for a few years but don't use them for real accurate work, for that we set up a jig on the table saw or use the sliding table saw.

I think most any of the 10" saws in your price range will be similar and provide accurate enough cuts if you set them up right and don't push them, let the blade eat.
What ArmchairDIY said about a quality blade is important-a good blade like a Forrest will make any saw work better.

Lots of guys now think the Festool is the gold standard. Maybe, if you got the gold to pay for one : )
Thank you for your comments. One more thing, I don't really have a workbench, either I have to keep it on the floor or on the wood table.. Would that affect the performance when I am cutting the wood ?
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:25 AM   #8
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If you are going to try and stay on the lower side of the price range I'm not sure how much the brand name matters. Get a 10 inch (sliding is nice if you can afford it but that changes the game a little) look for something with a solid base and nice wing expanders. I wouldn't stress over whether or not it has a laser, if it does and you use then you're just going to stress over if its accurate or not.

Personally I would go with a cheaper model like a craftsman or a Ryobi and get a nice blade if you plan on doing finer work. I have a craftsman that works like a charm for me and a few other people i know have them also and love them. Another Buddy of mine has a ryobi that he has no complaints about. I just dont see the point in spending a ton of money on a dewalt or something if you are only going to do a few projects with it.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:45 AM   #9
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i've had my DeWalt 12" compound mitre saw for many, many years and have never had a complaint.
one minor repair in all these years is pretty good! (the switch died, ordered $20 replacement from toolbarn.com or something similar)

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Old 12-07-2009, 10:27 AM   #10
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I have a Delta 10" compound mitre saw that I've been using for about 10 years. The base is 3.5" thick, so if you have a flat floor you can use 2/4 scraps to support long boards.

It's a great tool to have. I don't know how accurate it is, but it seems to work well enough for molding. All mine is painted, so the joints just need to be tight enough to caulk.
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:10 PM   #11
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I've had a 10" Delta for 10 yrs, and it's worked well for most projects. However, I've had challenges when trying to cut larger crown molding, since a 10" blade can't handle the bigger pieces. Also, the fence isn't tall enough for many pieces (I put my crown molding upside down, leaning on the fence; too difficult to figure out angles for compound miter cuts). If I had it to do over again, I'd go for a larger blade, or a slider. Just saying...

One option for a table: I mounted my miter saw on a piece of 3/4" plywood (approx 1.5' x 2'), with a 2x4 attached below (centered, parallel to the fence). I then clamp it to a Workmate when I use the saw -- makes a great portable table you can bring to the work area. Photos attached (one showing underside of mount, the other with the saw on the Workmate).

Another option: Using the same plywood/2x4 mount, I placed the saw on top of an old kitchen cabinet section, which already has a hole in the top. I put caster wheels under the cabinet, and voila! A rolling work station! Works great in the shop or garage. Drawers are good for holding gear like safety glasses, coping saw, etc. See attached photo.
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Old 12-11-2009, 08:53 AM   #12
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that is a sweet set up.
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:55 AM   #13
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Finally, I brought a Ryobi 15 AMP, 10" blade mitersaw on Friday from home depot. I did some base molding work on Saturday and Sunday.

So far, the experience with this miter saw is good.

However, I can only cut 45 degree angle from one side. The saw only moves to the left to make a inside 45 degree angle. If I have to make an outside 45 degree I need turn the molding.. I was expecting the saw to move 45 degree either the angle.. I

One more thing is that when I cut angles, it cuts outside of the laser not right on the laser.

Any one had any similar experiences with Ryobi ?
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:09 AM   #14
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I've had my Bosch 3915 compound mitre saw since 2001 and have replaced 1 switch. Not bad when you consider the amount of cutting it has done.

http://www.toolnewz.com/comparison_c...gcompound.html

And heed the advise about buying a good blade.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:46 AM   #15
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I am kind of in the same boat as you are. I'm getting read to redo the base molding and crown molding in my house. Obviously I'd like to have a hi-tech 12" sliding dual bevel saw but I can't afford $600. I'll probably be content to get a standard 10" saw due to their low cost and more portable size. I've been looking at the two Hitachi's from Lowes $139/$169 along with the two Ryobi's from Home Depot $99/$129. The $129 Ryobi from Home Depot has kind of peaked my interest because it comes with two extenders and a Crown molding clamp. But I think the Hitachi is a better overall machine. I tend to avoid craftsman because it's like playing Russian Roullette with what type of quality you are getting.

cprao - The problem you are having with only a single 45 degree bevel is common with lower end Miter Saws. If you want both you have to buy one that has "dual-bevel". And the prices go way up when you do that.

An easy way to cut crown without using the bevel is to insert the board upside down and in it's natural angled position (Not flat). Picture the miter base as the ceiling and the fence as the wall. Place your board in position so that the back two bases of the molding lay flat against the saw and fence. Set your saw to a standard 45 degree Miter and cut the board while making sure you are holding them firmly. There are several videos on youtube and on google.

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