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Old 08-12-2011, 10:31 AM   #16
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I would look at this situation the same as painting an object. What type caulk has given problems, and was it applied properly?
A lot of contractors will use the cheapest product that will do the job. If this is the case, removal is necessary!
I would rather spend more money and do the job right, remove and reapply QUALITY caulk If a window unit is sound, with no visible problems, let it go. If silicone (unpaintable) caulk was used--I don't believe even new silicone would adhere to it
Even the best paint or caulk is no good without the proper, clean, sound base


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Old 08-15-2011, 12:59 AM   #17
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In my opinion-if you want to hire this contractor to do the work, and he is a good painting contractor- Then he should be the one picking out the caulking.

Since he is a professional, he should/will know what caulk to use, a good painting contractor will know his caulking, that is one reason you hire him in the first place- for his knowledge.

What you should be looking for is not trying to figure out kind of caulking to use.-He is the one who should be explaining to you what process/product will be used for the most successfull results, and why.

You should make sure you have a warranty on the caulking work, to make sure he stands behind the work and you get good value for your money.

He should be telling you what caulking will be used, should be more than happy to tell you why, and be more than happy to give you a warranty in writing on it.
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Old 08-15-2011, 03:22 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Einhorn View Post
Our condominium was built 9 years ago. Most of the caulking is still looking good and filling the gaps, thus we don't feel that a complete removal of old caulking and re-caulking is required. (A total of 150 windows, doors, dryer and bathroom air outlets, etc..)

We've found a contractor we'd like to use who offers us three choices:
1 Removal of old caulk, clean, reapply new caulk (very expensive)
2 Simply patch areas where caulk has a gap between frame and brick.
3 Apply new caulk the entire length of the old caulk, just applying more of it, to form a wider seal.

We'd like to go with option 3 because its the same cost as option 2 (except for more caulk). Again, we don't feel that complete removal of old caulk should be required on a 9 year old building.

The contractor told me that good caulk is expensive, but will last much longer. So what I'm looking for is recommendations on what is a "good caulk".

The contractor specializes in painting. He does caulking also but he is not a dedicated caulking contractor.

He mentioned that there's Oil and Water based caulks. I asked if he could tell us what was originally applied but he says that with 9 year old caulk, he can't really tell.

For paints, the thinking was, historically, oil based paints will stand up longer when used for exterior purposes. Is this the same for Caulking?

Essentially, we have a good contractor, but I want recommendations on what to use for caulking material. I know that there's a lot more than Oil and Water based, there's silicone, and lots of other options, so any recommendations would be appreciated.
Caulk comes in many types (latex, silicone, and urethane) and choosing the right caulk for the job is important. Using the right caulk will both seal and protect, whether it’s gaps around a window or a tub — and you won't have to repeat the job any time soon.
  • Silicone is a great overall caulk and essential if you’re working with nonporous areas, such as bathtubs, showers, sinks, and so on.
  • Tub and tile caulk is an acrylic sealant that includes a mildew-resistant ingredient that makes it ideal in wet areas.
  • Urethane is also a good caulk for most other surfaces and has the added bonus of being paintable.
  • Elastomeric latex caulks are great for exterior cracks because it prevents the seal from expanding and contracting.

Last edited by Ricky008; 08-20-2011 at 03:01 AM.
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:01 PM   #19
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More info on backer rod, I think Man.6 mentioned them also. Page 30: http://books.google.com/books?id=fDs...age&q=&f=false


Page 35: http://books.google.com/books?id=XHA...0break&f=false

An hour-glass shape: http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...X1IjstvXQPNoxA


They may repeat, sorry....

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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 08-21-2011, 02:50 PM   #20
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Here ia a little guide that might be easier.


For what it's worth, practically ALL caulks and sealants are ELASTOMERIC. That simply means that when cured, they have elastic properties that will allow them to flex to absorb movement, whether it's dynamic motion, expansion/contraction or swelling/shrinking.


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