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-   -   Welding / faceplate modification question (see pics!) (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/welding-faceplate-modification-question-see-pics-11707/)

joeyboy 09-20-2007 09:43 PM

Welding / faceplate modification question (see pics!)
 
1 Attachment(s)
Okay, I've been using brushed satin nickel faceplates through the common areas in my house.


However, I ran into a problem when I found they don't make that finish (w/o special orders, ach!) for coax plates.


So, I figured that with some brushed aluminum flashing, and a toggle switch brushed stainless steel faceplate, I could hook *something* up w/o it looking bad!


Anyways, the pic shows what I'm working with. In the pic you see the aluminum flashing being used as a tray, a generic white coax faceplate, and the actual coax connector piece.

Here's what I was thinking: If I could make a square out of the aluminum (either folded over edges, or just flat/sanded and then applied), and have a hole in it that fits that coax perfectly, I could mod the toggle switch satin finish plate I have to be a satin finish coax plate, only with a square of aluminum in the middle. I know that if I have the tools, I can make it work, if it's possible (I know it may be tedious).


So, here's the question, how would I affix the aluminum to the satin nickel finished faceplate?

<<< BTW, at my disposal I have regular solder, a soldering kit, and a propane torch >>>>


I'm planning to make a smooth aluminum square to completely cover the toggle hole in the satin plate, weld/affix it to the plate, and then I'll have a modified coax plate from a standard satin nickel toggle plate. Any tips, suggestions, etc are hugely appreciated! I could probably custom order this plate in a coax configuration, but I hate special ordering stuff. And it has to be satin nickel because there's 2 spots right beside it (a receptacle plate and a blank plate), so I need uniformity....

joeyboy 09-20-2007 09:45 PM

<<<UPDATE: I just realized that picture is crap, but enough to get the idea. The double receptacle faceplate is a satin nickel, the cam just doesn't show it. The coax receptacle is a standard white plastic. The sheet that's holding everything is the aluminum flashing I'm thinking I could use to make a square over a toggle hole in a toggle satin nickel faceplate, and carve it precisely to accomodate the coax>>>>>

zel 09-21-2007 05:44 PM

I dont know if it will work because the screw holes will need to be in the correct places, but if they are...would double faced tape work? What aboutjust using the more modern rocker switch faceplate in brushed nickel (very common, easy to find), and using the white coax connector/receptacle behind it.

Maybe this pic will help explain it better:

http://www.renegadecable.com/w/1/_thumb/200-266iv.jpg

Jeekinz 09-21-2007 06:16 PM

How about a blank faceplate, then drill a hole in the middle?

Or, try and hide the plate instead of glamorizing it.....paint it the wall color.

joeyboy 09-21-2007 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zel (Post 64103)
I dont know if it will work because the screw holes will need to be in the correct places, but if they are...would double faced tape work? What aboutjust using the more modern rocker switch faceplate in brushed nickel (very common, easy to find), and using the white coax connector/receptacle behind it.

Maybe this pic will help explain it better:

http://www.renegadecable.com/w/1/_thumb/200-266iv.jpg

Will check that link in a minute, but I was just showing the receptacle satin plate for illustration (trying to show the metals' similarities, but my camera skills prevented that!).

But yeah, I've got a satin nickel toggle switchplate that I want to use to do the mod, so there'd be top/bottom screws. I figured I'd cut the aluminum to the height of the toggle's hole, and make it a perfect square. Then affix it (weld, glue, tape, etc) to the toggle satin plate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeekinz (Post 64110)
How about a blank faceplate, then drill a hole in the middle?

Or, try and hide the plate instead of glamorizing it.....paint it the wall color.

They don't come in blanks!! No blanks, no coax!! (which is a problem because I've got 3 outlets in a row, in this order: receptacle, coax, blank. I'm thinking of just patching the blank one since it's not power, it's someone's bad idea of a stereo cabling joke...)

The wall is white, if I botch this (if I even attempt it, starting to think it's not even worth the trouble, but I really want uniformity!), I'm just gonna use the standard white coax plate that's already in place....

joeyboy 09-21-2007 07:44 PM

zel, I checked the pic and that looks good! I'm gonna have to mess with that! (glad I didn't open <don't think I did, damnit!> the toggle satin plate, if I didn't open it I'll swap it for a decora plate and put a coax behind! Smooth!!!)

joeyboy 09-22-2007 04:13 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by zel (Post 64103)
I dont know if it will work because the screw holes will need to be in the correct places, but if they are...would double faced tape work? What aboutjust using the more modern rocker switch faceplate in brushed nickel (very common, easy to find), and using the white coax connector/receptacle behind it.

Maybe this pic will help explain it better:

http://www.renegadecable.com/w/1/_thumb/200-266iv.jpg

Thanks a lot zel!!!!

I took the standard white one, cut it out to fit in the decora slot of a satin plate, roughed them both up with ~70grit, wet a bit, then gorilla glue/clamped. If I could do better camera work I could show my flaws, but can't get up that close (some glue crept out a tiny bit, I cleaned it as it squeezed out, but there's some residue - one of those flaws that only I'll see! :laughing: :laughing: )

It's cool because there were 3 holes: power, coax, stereo. I ended up patching the stereo one, but the receptacle's white, and the coax centerpiece is white, so I just used white screws for both and I think it looks pretty good! << using white screws is good because I'm running low on matching satin screws - they keep snapping on me! >>

joeyboy 09-22-2007 04:14 PM

(hmmmm, the more I look at that pic the more I think I should put satin screws on the coax plate... opinions on that? I have the screws if needed, I just keep snapping them! I've got a few extra right now because I've been using white screws on power socket plates)

zel 09-22-2007 06:08 PM

good job joey, only thing that might have helped a bit is that they sell a decora style coax connector that wouldnt require the gluing and clamping. In any event, looks like you nailed it. I would definately use the satin screws though. Looks good!

joeyboy 09-22-2007 06:40 PM

Yeah they make them, but they'd have to be special ordered (or I'd have to start going to lowes, hoping they had the same brand available in coax - the two are so close on the wall they've gotta be the same....). It just seemed much easier to mod it than to find/order the proper plate (plus, the plate would've been expensive as hell I bet. Standard toggle white plate = $0.50, standard coax white = $4-5. Satin toggle plate = $5.99, so I imagine a satin coax would be well over ten!)


didn't even think of it til just now, but the satin screws won't work there!!! Whoever made the original cutout for that coax cable/faceplate didn't put a box in, they just used drywall anchors! I've never put a box in before, and since it was already that way and I didn't notice a problem with it before, I just followed in suit. The satin screws that came with those plates aren't nearly long enough to make it to the anchors.... Do you think a standard stainless screw would look better than whites? Do you think the white screw looks good on the power receptacle/outlet plate?

zel 09-22-2007 07:05 PM

I would personally go with stainless screws on all of them. I would think you could find something that would work in the cabinet hardware section.

This is what I was talking about above, I dont know if I was being clear or describing it correctly. You could use one of these (link below) with the satin plate over it.

http://www.hdsupply.ca/wcsstore/B2BD...711505-CAN.gif

joeyboy 09-22-2007 10:17 PM

that's exactly what I did isn't it? I just didn't use a separate unit, I cut up a regular white coax plate and glued into a decora plate, is there much difference?


Re: satin screws, yeah I def gotta check hardware/cabinets sections for some of those. It's amazing how you spend $5.99 on a decora plate (satin nickel), and the screws are the weakest I've ever played with!!!!!

zel 09-23-2007 01:26 AM

yep, thats exactly what you did. It just would have saved you a couple steps having that part already made instead of cuttin/sanding/gluing. Either way, looks like you nailed it. On to the next project!

joeyboy 09-23-2007 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zel (Post 64298)
On to the next project!

haha seriously! Never ending renovations!!!!!

gregzoll 09-23-2007 03:54 PM

When the plates are manufactured, they are made with a stamping press that cuts out multiple units from one sheet, then a press to form the edges.


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