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jpmiskell 06-13-2013 03:02 PM

water damage to interior drywall
the wall in my attached garage that butts up to my great room has leaked water (snow melt) and as a result the drywall on the inside has been partially destroyed. i have removed a section of the rotted drywall and uncovered up to the height of 3 blocks. i see mold and moist spots up to a few inches on the first course. i have since fixed the water seepage from the garage into the interior. my question is how to install new drywall and do it right. the original builder did not place a moisture barrier between the drywall and the block, he just used adhesive to secure it to the block. any suggestions? thanks!

brockmiera 06-13-2013 03:18 PM

Are you looking to just patch the hole or do you want to re do the entire common wall? Please post a picture when you are able to.

nicktools561 06-13-2013 03:43 PM

Assuming the leak is fixed.. Just take down all the drywall off up to the middle of the nearest studs. Measure, cut a sheet of drywall Then use joint tape for the seams. Now just use joint compound in multiple thin coats. Sand as needed, prime and paint. That is to... but if you feel as if the wall is still susceptible to moisture then use "durock." It is like drywall except it is used in bathrooms and other areas with moisture... It is also know as concrete board. Good luck, let us know how things are progressing!

joecaption 06-13-2013 04:06 PM

Using a moisture resistant drywall would be useless in this case.
The back side has no protection.

PoleCat 06-13-2013 04:53 PM

I may be reading that wrong but it sounds like there is a block wall between the garage and house with drywall glued to the block inside.

If that is indeed the case then I would strip the entire wall and glue foil & plastic faced 1/2 foam to block, seal the seams with metal duct tape, then glue the new 1/2 drywall to the foam. Leaves you with adhesive picture hangers as the only option but it would seal against vapor and moisture.

jpmiskell 06-14-2013 08:59 AM

drywall rot problem
many thanks for your suggestions. yes you are correct it is a block wall 3 courses high. i was finally able to get a 71 year old real pro drywall guy to look at it yesterday. he confirmed that not only was it against code it was just a cheap way to cut costs. he told me to remove all the drywall up to the 2x6 bottom plate and apply 2 coats of drylock. he offered to fir it out and use 3/8 board for a fairly close match to the existing 1/2", then utilize his talents to feather out the seam. the wall is 10 high by 20 wide and it would be a difficult job to remove all the drywall. he feels the space created by the strips is enough to let the wall breathe. this sounds reasonable to me. i did ask about a vapor barrier but he doesn't think it's necessary.

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