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-   -   Two questions befre I install the new exterior door (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/two-questions-befre-i-install-new-exterior-door-185009/)

jammy54 08-09-2013 01:16 AM

Two questions befre I install the new exterior door
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3t7w3plxehzcdny/IMG_0773s.pdfhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/8v433rq7ajgfj7c/IMG_0773s.jpghttps://www.dropbox.com/s/dlklkbi9c6...IMG_0774ss.jpg

See my previous posts about "Dimensions of Pressure Treated Lumber" and "How do I Flash this" for background on this project.

I have sistered the joists and replaced the rotten rim joist. Everything was plumb and square. Subfloor is on too.

Now I have two issues to address.



First there was some dry rotted parts of the bottom plate of the walls on either side of the doorway. About 3-4" under the walls. I thought about cutting/replacing it but it would have meant major surgery. So I cleaned out all the rotted parts and applied wood hardener. I guess I have 4 choices (1) try to cut voids square and fill with pieces of PT wood cut to size, (2) fill with wood bondo, (3) fill with Great Stuff foam, (4) leave it as is (NO!). Any recommendations? I don't think this is structurally affecting the wall/door RO at this point. I am leaning towards the Great Stuff.

Second issue is flashing. I plan to apply the butyl roll sealing tape. Threshold, sides and then top. Then aluminum flashing over it. Extend both at least 3-4" below the foundation at the gap between rim and stoop.

Question: Do I need to tuck butyl tape and/or flashing under siding? I will be applying Azek as trim (top, sides and bottom.) Or would a good caulk be OK prior to Azek? Or should I add a J channel? (there was none on the original door. (Maybe that's what caused the rot!!!!!

Thanks for any and all advice.

jammy54 08-09-2013 01:24 AM



Let's see if these pics work ...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8v433rq7ajgfj7c/IMG_0773s.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dlklkbi9c6...IMG_0774ss.jpg

joecaption 08-09-2013 08:48 AM

Sure not the way I would have done it.
I for sure would have removed at least one row of bricks near the house.
That whole area down to just below the sill plate needed to be water proofed.
Removed more of the siding and sheathing so I could install a longer rim joist. (you did at least replace it with 2X not just cover it up, right?)
It may be the picture, but it looks like that subflooring is not sitting on top of the rim joist like it should.
I'd remove enough of the siding that I could add a full width strip of Storm and Ice shield to the wall a few ft. past the step on each side, you make a diagonal slit in the storm and ice at the corners of the door opening and fold them into the door opening, then trim them off inside the opening.
Then you can install a sill pan or line the opening with the window tape.
http://jambsill.com/
No way you I be using aluminum flashing for any of this.
It can not come in contact with pressure treated wood or it's just going to corrode in no time.


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