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dtm888 02-10-2012 04:08 PM

Is there a formula? Please help
 
Hey you guys,

I don't know if I'm asking in the right place, but here goes. I'm trying to do what is supposed to be a simple project, but I can't seem to get the measurement down correctly.

I trying to cut some crown molding for my house. When I can't seem to figure out how to cut the ends to meet at the corners. when I cutting them, the tip of the angle is either short, or long. When measuring the molding for, is there a "rule of thumb" or some formula I should use to measure the cut to fit.

Thank you for any inputs in advance.

Newbie :huh:

ddawg16 02-10-2012 04:52 PM

First question....are you using a compound mitter saw? If not....not an easy task.

Anyway....when I'm doing it....I measure to long sides....in other words, the bottom of your crown molding 'usually' touches the wall. So you measure from the wall to the other end.

Then set up your compound mitter saw to cut a 45 and you then set your molding in the saw the same way it would lay up in the corner of the wall/ceiling.

I always cut mine just a little long...then trim to fit.

dtm888 02-10-2012 05:00 PM

Yes, I am using a miter saw. I understand the cutting a little long and trimming for a fit. I was just hoping there was a formula or way to cut it and not have to trim it to fit.

Thanks for the input

Jackofall1 02-10-2012 06:21 PM

There are alot these out there but heres one that will be of some assistance

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvRpm...endscreen&NR=1

Mark

md2lgyk 02-12-2012 07:00 AM

I have found it is much easier to cut crown molding if you put it in the saw upside down. You don't even need a coupound miter saw if you do it that way.

oh'mike 02-12-2012 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by md2lgyk (Post 851185)
I have found it is much easier to cut crown molding if you put it in the saw upside down. You don't even need a compound miter saw if you do it that way.

That method is called 'nested' ---purchase or make 'crown stops' to ensure that the crown molding sits in the saw the same way each time that you move the wood---

12penny 02-12-2012 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackofall1 (Post 849906)
There are alot these out there but heres one that will be of some assistance

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvRpm...endscreen&NR=1

Mark


This is the way I measure as well. With a ladder set up mid wall, one guy can measure a pretty long wall with no assistance.

And not to change the direction of this thread.....I cope.:whistling2:

MNsawyergp 02-13-2012 03:05 PM

If you are laying the pieces flat on the saw bed, you need a crown molding degree chart. These can be found on line. There is no One-fits-all formula because not all crown molding is made to fit the wall and ceiling at the same angle. If at all possible learn to cope one inside corner piece to the other one that has been cut square and fitted tight into the corner. The cope is done by cutting a miter cut, as if you were mitering both pieces. For this cut, it is easiest to flip the crown so the ceiling side touches the saw base and the wall side touches the back fence. This is where the crown stops mentioned in previous replies comes into play. I usually draw a line on my saw base instead so I can rock the piece a little for fine tuning. Once you have this miter cut, the fun begins. You are going to cut away the end grain wood inside this miter cut line. How precise you are in cutting exactly on that miter line determines how well the piece will mate to the other piece. Most people use the tried and true coping saw for cutting along this line, then using files, dremmel tools, grinders or other inventions to get the exact fit. If you are working with unfinished wood it helps to take the edge of a pencil lead and slide it along this miter line to give a dark profile to cut along. You will be measuring for this piece wall to wall. You will cut your miter and, before cutting out the cope, hook your tape to the shape edge of the miter, the wall side, and pull to the other end and mark the length. If the pieces are long enough to be flexed, I usually add about 1/16th -1/8". This allows for a force fit and a little trimming. Trimming should not be necessary, though. If anything, tap the square corner piece at the top or the bottom to rock it a little to match your cope. I could write pages about all the little tricks to do a good, efficiant crown molding job. This is a start.

dtm888 02-13-2012 03:32 PM

wow! Thank you so much for everyone's input.


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