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Old 01-17-2009, 11:17 AM   #1
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Super glaze bar table finish


I am hoping someone can give me some suggestions before applying the Parks Super Glaze to finish a bar table I made.

For the table top to make it fit into an English style pub in my basement, I used a spray solution to secure English beer coasters to a table top. They are thicker than paper and overlap on the table top which obviously leaves some gaps between the paper coaster and the table. This leaves air pockets. I am afraid when I apply the Super Glaze it will create a large number of air bubbles and they could be unmanageable to remove since the glaze becomes unworkable in about 25 minutes and the air pockets are probably substantial.

My question is does anyone know of a coat of "something" I can apply first to seal the coasters to the table and eliminate air from escaping and ruining my Super Glaze finish?

I appreciate any help.

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Old 01-17-2009, 03:28 PM   #2
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Super glaze bar table finish


You might want to post your question at our sister site, www.woodworkingtalk.com

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Old 01-17-2009, 03:51 PM   #3
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Super glaze bar table finish


Quote:
before applying the Parks Super Glaze to finish a bar table I made.
Ayuh,... I don't know that product in particular,... I Assume it's a tabletop epoxy resin,..??

If you're doing a tabletop with an Epoxy "tabletop" grade resin, you would use the resin to attach the coasters to the tabletop,...
More resin, more coasters, More resin, til you get it where you want it to be....Work the air out as you go...
If it's going to be pretty thick,.. Tape can be used to dam the resin long enough for it to Set,...
By doing the operation as a single pour casting,... it lessens the amount of sanding between operations...

Good Luck,...
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:32 PM   #4
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Super glaze bar table finish


I have worked with superglaze on some art projects, and I can say that the one GREAT thing about it is that after the initial cure time (8 hours) you can apply you can apply subsequent coats without worry of seeing any delineation between coats. So If you are enclosing the tabletop in a frame and pouring into that, I would suggest teh following: 1-2-3 (If necessary) thin coats to allow the air bubbles to either flow out or get encapsulated under a coaster. Be SURE to have a heat gun, or at least a good hot hair dryer, as that is Imperative to release all of the bubbles. A trowel with small notched edges works great for spreading, and the heat gun will push the liquid around a little too. Be sure to mix throroughly to ensure a clear finish, and most importantly, between coats, Seal the pour area with something to keep all dust particles out, and inspect your surface before your next pour.
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:46 AM   #5
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Super glaze bar table finish


Thanks for the replay. I figured it out eventually.

I made a frame to surround the table so when I poured the coating it didn't all flow off leaving the edges of the coasters exposed.

Also, I wish I would have known about the heat gun. I used a fireplace lighter that worked pretty well but took constant attention for the first 30 minutes to control the air bubbles.

Table looks fantastic and is a great conversation piece with visitors.
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:44 AM   #6
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Super glaze bar table finish


I realize this thread is over 6-months old, so I hope someone is still active.

When I applied the Super Glaze to my workbench, I evidently didn't thoroughly mix one batch and now 4-months later the patch is still sticky. I've managed to scrape the majority off, but there is still a residue that is trapping flys and millers (moths). There appears to be a layer of cured glaze under the problem area (about one square foot), and I believe that if I can remove the remaining residue the finish will be acceptable. I've also considered adding another layer to cover the area. Comments??
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:20 PM   #7
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Super glaze bar table finish


I am looking for advice and direction to salvage a project. My sons used Parks Super Glaze on a bottle cap table top 3 months ago and it still has not cured. They glued the bottle caps to the table top then "piped-in" Super Glaze between the caps to further anchor. The next day Super Glaze not longer felt tacky and they applied a single flood coat to cover caps. This was a very thick coat and I don't think it was thoroughly mixed. The table is about 7 ft x2 ft. The glaze appears fairly fluid in some areas and other areas appear more firm. Can the glaze be removed at this point? Is it possible to salvage the project at this point? Any direction is greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:15 PM   #8
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Super glaze bar table finish


If you are still looking for an answer I use Super Glaze all the time for my jigsaw Puzzles to frame also for Placques..I use minwax latex wood sealer on everything so that the resin can't soak in at all..Hope this will help you.
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:21 PM   #9
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Super glaze bar table finish


No !!! You will ruin the project if you try to remove the resin in any way..best advice I can give you since I do know this stuff is to put another coat on top of the table but this time make sure it is stirred well and put on the table at a room temp...If you do it around 6:00 one evning it should be cured the next day around the same time.
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:04 PM   #10
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Super glaze bar table finish


I glazed the top of a white table for my client's bathroom, and the glaze came out perfectly. Unfortunately, the table has grooves in the top of it, and my client now feels that it looks like dirt is in the grooves (it is shadows - cleaned really well before applying glaze), and she wants me to strip it, paint the top and then reapply the glaze. Does anyone know how hard this thick epoxy resin is to strip? What would you use to do so? This is breaking my heart - the top looks like glass now and am dreading starting over.
Aloha, Hawaii girl
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:27 PM   #11
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Super glaze bar table finish


I have a different question about the glaze.........can it be brushed on a vertical surface? I am looking for a product to use on my countertop edging. We we are installing an oak strip that bullnoses against the tile and I am searching for a way to make the finish more durable.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:49 PM   #12
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Super glaze bar table finish


I used super glaze on a free standing metal ashtray holder about 10 years ago I brushed it on and it still looks great today so yes you can brush it on I started from the top and went down no runs looks like glass hope this helps
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #13
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Super glaze bar table finish


How can you speed up the drying and curing time with super glaze?
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:59 PM   #14
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Super glaze bar table finish


So, I applied the super glaze to a piece of wood for my CPO charge book. It looked great but it had some bubbles in it. As recommended, I used a blow torch to bring the bubbles to the top. It worked great, except I had one area that got to hot and torched the super glaze. It is about the size of a dime. There is not a lot of directions on repairing or applying a second, third or multiple coats to super glaze. Can I repair the dime size spot, I don't think applying another coat is going to cover the problem. Can I wet sand the area, how long do I have to wait before wet sanding, if preferred. How long do I have to wait to apply multiple coats? Anything will help, thanks.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:25 PM   #15
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Super glaze bar table finish


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Originally Posted by chrisvalentino View Post
I have worked with superglaze on some art projects, and I can say that the one GREAT thing about it is that after the initial cure time (8 hours) you can apply you can apply subsequent coats without worry of seeing any delineation between coats. So If you are enclosing the tabletop in a frame and pouring into that, I would suggest teh following: 1-2-3 (If necessary) thin coats to allow the air bubbles to either flow out or get encapsulated under a coaster. Be SURE to have a heat gun, or at least a good hot hair dryer, as that is Imperative to release all of the bubbles. A trowel with small notched edges works great for spreading, and the heat gun will push the liquid around a little too. Be sure to mix throroughly to ensure a clear finish, and most importantly, between coats, Seal the pour area with something to keep all dust particles out, and inspect your surface before your next pour.
Do you need to sand between the first and second coat? Can I wait the full 72 hours before applying the second coat?

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