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-   -   Solution for Bad Advice - Latex on Bookcase (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/solution-bad-advice-latex-bookcase-78864/)

greenthumb 08-16-2010 01:39 AM

Solution for Bad Advice - Latex on Bookcase
 
Guys,

I just jointed the forum. It looks great!

I received some bad advice at Ace Hardware. I told them I was painting birch libraray cabinets and asked for the best paint. They gave me Kilz oil based primer and BM Latex paint.

After about 1 coat of the primer and 2 coats of the latex it was not turning out like I wanted and it was very sticky.

Then I started snooping on the web and was informed that you should not use latex on cabinests because it is sticky and soft.

So I am looking for a solution.

1. I could strip or sand down the paint and redo. If so what kind of stripper for latex, what kind of primer and paint should I use to get a great result.

2. Can I rough up the existing paint and reprime and repaint. If so what primer and type of paint can I use. What grit sandpaper is best?

3. Any other solution that would work well.

I am a newbie and probably should have know the latex was wrong. I take repsonsibiltiy for it. I just need some great advice.

Thank you in advance.

Jim

chrisn 08-16-2010 04:50 AM

I have used latex on book cases countless times with good results. I takes 30 days for the paint to fully cure.

Just Bill 08-16-2010 06:58 AM

I don't like latex paints for the way they look when done. I have had the problem you mention on occasion. It usually was because I did not allow sufficient drying time, and sometimes due to humid weather. At this point, I see a stripper in your future, then follow directions. or use oil based paint, takes even longer to dry, but looks so much better.

mark942 08-16-2010 11:00 AM

I like chrsin have used Latex with great results. I also like Just Bill have used oil with great results. Like Just Bill said Humidity/Heat, ect can effect the paint. A citrus type stripper would be your next move, while the paint has not cured to it`s fullest, it should be a pretty straight forward job. Apply stripper,Scrape off, then use 100 grit paper down to 220 grit until you get a baby bottom smooth finish. A heat gun might be a idea as apposed to a stripper. Oil primer is a must here. Top coat with latex or oil, both have great results,eggshell or a semi gloss finish would be my thought. But there are those who will say OIL is the only way to go and then there will be those who say LATEX is the only way to go. To each their own I say. Be sure to read and follow all directions as already posted.......................Go to your local paint company Benjamin Moore, Not Ace, and ask the rep for suggestions...............Good Luck to you................................:thumbsup:


You could wait until the paint has cured and see if a sanding it all out as apposed to stripping will work. But if your like me and have to have it done ASAP do as suggested.

Giles 08-16-2010 11:33 AM

A few years ago, I had a beautiful hardrock maple end table that I wanted to refinish. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a high gloss polyeurethane stain and sealer and their clear finish.
Applied per directions and a week later the clear coat was still wet to the touch:furious:
I found out that some of Ace Hardware finishes are manufactured by Ace, and this was one.
I called the 800 number and spoke to a reperesentative. He stated that you could not finish Hardrock Maple:censored:--It would not dry:censored:
I hung the phone up and went to SW and their product worked beautiful, after I completely stripped the defective Ace finish.
Ace offered NO Assistance--not even a refund.:(

Brik 08-16-2010 11:35 AM

before stripping and redoing I would give it a bit more time. If the paint looks good and is just a little sticky do this. Let it cure for a week or so. Then top coat it with some ultra clear water based polyurethane.
Something like this
http://www.minwax.com/products/water...ve_finish.html

The poly will give you that hard clear top-coat you want. The paint gives the color/look you want. The spray will give a nice, smooth, finish but may be too expensive for a large project.

Try it on a sample, scrap board, or inconspicuous area first to make sure you like the look.

Windows 08-16-2010 12:03 PM

How you apply the paint can be as important as what you apply. It is difficult to get a professional looking result on furniture with brush and roller. Although not a DIY solution, maybe you would be happier having them sprayed by an expert.

greenthumb 08-16-2010 06:02 PM

Damage control
 
Thank you for all the input.

I have checked with Kelly Moore and Sherwin Williams. Both have a water based hybrid alkyd enamel. Both say that it should work over the top of the latex.

If so, who makes the beter paint?

Jim

mark942 08-16-2010 06:58 PM

Kelly Moore would be my choice. Didnt know you were on the west coast.


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