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-   -   Securing porch supports to a concre pad. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/securing-porch-supports-concre-pad-47147/)

Engus 06-21-2009 09:16 AM

Securing porch supports to a concre pad.
 
I'm about to build a new porch roof and I will be using treated 4x4's in vinyl sleeves for support.
I am going to use Simpson Strong Ties to connect the tops of the 4x4's to the double 2x8 beam, but I'm curious as to different ways to connect the bottoms of the 4x4's to the concrete pad.

I'm thinking about using the hard vinyl supports that attach to the bottom of the 4x4's, and then drilling into the concrete for rebar that will go about 3 inches into the concrete and 3-4 inches into the posts. I would also be using concrete epoxy to set the rebar in the concrete and post bottoms.

Is there an 'easier' way that eliminates the drilling into the concrete and the need for fussing with epoxy that some of you guys may have used ?

Thanks a ton for sharing !
I appreciate it.

Just Bill 06-22-2009 06:53 AM

That porch roof likely needs a permit, since in many areas that will now be a room. Sounds like a good plan, but the local codes have the last say.

vsheetz 06-22-2009 11:42 AM

I used a metal bracket at the base of 4x4 post - this anchored to the concrete and the post, and holds the bottom of the post about 1/2" off so it readily dries after a rain and is not directly against the concrete.

I used anchors such as these to afix the bracket to the concrete - http://www.confast.com/products/thunderstud-anchor.aspx

Drilling a hole with a hammer drill is not difficult. See the installation video at the URL above.

Aggie67 06-24-2009 04:01 PM

Are you putting in footings for this? If it were mine, I'd never mount them directly to the top of a concrete patio. Too much opportunity for movement and cracking. A little bit of wind goes a long way in transferring loads down to the bottom of those columns. Same deal with frost heaving. I've got a long gabled addition perpendicular off the back of my house, split into two spaces - an enclosed wet bar room up against the house and an open air patio at the far end of the addition. The two spaces share the same roof. Everything is set in footings.

I'm concerned that you wouldn't pass even the local code minimums with your suggested anchoring scheme.

Wildie 06-24-2009 09:42 PM

I just finished doing a similar project!
Firstly, I was required to install footings 4' below grade on the corners. Then supported the slab with 8" Sono tubes filled with cement. These were installed at the corners.
I had to anchor the 6" posts to prevent lift! The engineer gave me 2 options. #1 was using a Simpson ABU66 fastened to the. slab with a 4" lag into a Kwik Bolt II by Hilti. Option 2 was to use two angle brackets (1/4X3X3) angle brackets fastened to the concrete with 3" lags into 2 Kwik Bolt II anchors.
I chose the angle iron brackets.
The beam at the top had to be anchored to the posts with metal straps (1/8" thick) on both sides. These straps were fastened to the beam and posts with a 2 -1/2" lag screws into post and the beam.

Gary in WA 06-25-2009 04:25 PM

I agree with Aggie and Bill. If you live in a high wind or seismic area, there are special precautions to take as you are liable.
The roof could blow off, only anchored to the slab, and cause damage your Homeowners Insurance would not cover as you didn't get a permit. He could own your house.
The info you receive here is the way some have done things, not the way you may be required to do for safety in your local area. Be safe, G


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