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jpc 02-25-2013 07:19 PM

?'s about moisture content of house framing
 
recently repaired some damage from a leak, along with tracking down the leak and making the repair, and while out shopping the other day I got fixated on a moisture probe, nothing fancy or expensive, and was curious as to what would be the normal or acceptable range for the moisture content on my house's framing on exterier 2x material, or subfloor material, my house was but in 2001, over a crawl space. I live near the coastal side of virginia, and not sure what other info would be helpful so if Ive missed anything let me know,,,,, in advance, thank you for any help or info you all might pass my way.

Daniel Holzman 02-25-2013 08:12 PM

Softwood framing (pine, fir) ranges from a low of about 12 percent to a normal high of about 20 percent moisture content, depending on the season. Higher moisture content in Spring and summer, lowest in winter. When initially purchased from a (typical) big box store, non kiln dried lumber could be at 30 or occasionally even 40 percent moisture content. Kiln dried lumber would be around 6 percent. Air dried rarely gets below 12 percent, unless you live out west in the desert.

jpc 02-25-2013 09:14 PM

Thank you "Daniel Holzman" for responding and breaking things down for me, makes sence. Im running any where from 9 to 13 around interior and no much more around the inside of the exterior wall. Again thank you

harrymontana 03-11-2013 08:21 AM

everything over 25% moisture content will start to rot and decay.
for your information:
indoor hardwood flooring is being shipped with a 6-8% moisture content
softwood absorps and release moisture much faster then hardwoods, so depending on the season and location it is indeed between 12 - 20% if kiln dried before selling.
outdoor decking ideally is 18-22% (airdried)
These are your parameters

Nailbags 03-11-2013 09:23 AM

your framing should be plenty dry by now built 2001. Just a cavat to what has been mentioned in earlier posts. Framing lumber is to be 12%-15% moisture content over that is green lumber meaning air dried. Now that said lumber yards store the lumber in all sorts of ways after they get it from the mill. the most commen way is out side in the rain. and the moisture levels can be any were on the charts. That is one reason I refuse to use Hemlock as framing lumber it will warp bend twist cup and so on as re dries out. Dougfir on the other hand is less prone to that problem and I never buy Hem Fir 2x's that means it could be hemlock or fir. But you should be ok with the framing and sub floors.

harrymontana 03-11-2013 11:38 AM

[QUOTE=Nailbags;1134454]your framing should be plenty dry by now built 2001.
[QUOTE]

this is a wrong assumption. Because it is from 2001 it must be dry by now. Wood absorp moisture, especially softwood. If there is a drainage problem and/ or no ventilation this is what occurs. The mold is the proove that the wood is NOT dry.


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