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Old 02-17-2010, 07:49 AM   #16
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replace old windows


One example of window flashing & how to install
The stuff I used was 6" wide instead of only 4"
Tyvek on the house since I am residing the whole house
I am installing drip edge over the windows - above the trim
This hopefully keeps water from getting behind the trim
I also prime all sides of the trim & usually do the same with paint
I only use one sill plate flashing
I also haven't had to use the corner flashing since my flashing goes well beyond each corner





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Old 02-17-2010, 08:46 AM   #17
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replace old windows


Nice exploded view, thanks.

I have 15lb tar paper on top of the sheathing, it is required beneath the fiber-cement siding. My current 45 yr old window does not show any evidence of water damage, and the only flashing it has is the tar paper right up to the edge.

I also have a roll of the Protecto Wrap BT25XL as depicted in your post. The way they propose putting in the window is, put a strip of the Protecto Wrap on the bottom of the rough sill first, then install the window and tack down, then install the rest of the Protecto Wrap around the window. Of course since I have the tar paper, it makes me wonder if I should tack the tar paper right up to the edge and then put the sheathing on top of it, or trim back the tar paper for the flashing to adhere directly to the sheathing.

Here's a question: once you have the window in and you're installing the trim, should you avoid additional nails through the window nail fin? That seems like it might give a path in for water.
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:16 AM   #18
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alot of these install methods are really dependent on how exposed the windows actually are,if you have deep overhangs you could probably just flash the rough sill,install the window,repair or replace any felt shingle style over the nailing flanges then trim your window
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:15 PM   #19
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I THINK brons2 IS IN THE WRONG THREAD!

tnx,
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:25 PM   #20
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You asked in the original post whether you could install windows yourself or leave it to a pro, well, you should be getting a good idea by now just by reading the responses to my posts.
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brons2 View Post
You asked in the original post whether you could install windows yourself or leave it to a pro, well, you should be getting a good idea by now just by reading the responses to my posts.
That's not the way it works. What you did was, "hijack " the post. It's considered inappropriate. What you should have done, was start your own post about your situation. It confuses the issue as to whose post is being addressed when you do this.
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:27 PM   #22
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it's all the same info that's been posted here a thousand times neither of the posters seem to know what the search button is for

i bet the next questin is...i have ice forming at the end of my roof....
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:35 PM   #23
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I will indeed start with a window around the back of the house but I thought I'd post some pix of the windows in the dining room which are next. as you can see, there's brick all around. I'm fearful of the answer to this question but here goes: exactly how do you get the old windows out assuming there's "nailing flanges" on the sides of those window frames? looks to me like new construction windows are installed before the siding goes on (in this case,brick) so the flanges are covered up. does the brick have to be removed?

tnx,
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replace old windows-windows-001.jpg   replace old windows-windows-003.jpg  
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:52 PM   #24
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i would pull the sashes.remove the trim in the center,pull any nails you can find,then collapse the frame,starting at the center of each window where you removed the trim with a flatbar,your gonna have to muscle it alittle but it will go
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:18 PM   #25
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i would pull the sashes.remove the trim in the center,pull any nails you can find,then collapse the frame,starting at the center of each window where you removed the trim with a flatbar,your gonna have to muscle it alittle but it will go

but of course then there's the problem of installing the new window which will have "nailing fins" too.

tnx,
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomstruble View Post
it's all the same info that's been posted here a thousand times neither of the posters seem to know what the search button is for

i bet the next questin is...i have ice forming at the end of my roof....
so Tom,what SHOULD I do about that durned ice?

tnx.
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:45 AM   #27
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i don't know

is the whole house brick or just the area under the porch?if its just the porch area you can probably ''shoehorn'' the double units in, might have to trim the flanges down a little,make sure you get the top flange under any paper that hopefully is there,get a ''brick clip'' from the window manufacturer as you won't be abe to nail thru the flanges here
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:55 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomstruble View Post
i don't know

is the whole house brick or just the area under the porch?if its just the porch area you can probably ''shoehorn'' the double units in, might have to trim the flanges down a little,make sure you get the top flange under any paper that hopefully is there,get a ''brick clip'' from the window manufacturer as you won't be abe to nail thru the flanges here
well, Tom, the entire front of the house is brick and the other 3 sides regular siding. is there a different construction technique used for a house built entirely of brick as opposed to one like mine where only a portion is brick?

tnx,
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:31 PM   #29
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well im assuming your house is wood frame with brick veneer so no as far as different constuction teqniques,your still installing the window flanges to the sheathing of the house,the main thing is integrating the window flanges into the existing felt underlayment properly,If the windows in the brick area are well protected by overhangs as long as you flash the sill first and get the window flange under the paper at the top you could pretty much just remove the side flanges and use a brick clip to secure the windows and use spray foam to seal the sides,install any outside trim and caulk it to the window and brick you should be ok

for the more exposed windows in the siding areas,removing the siding from around the windows so you can better flash the window usually yields better results
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:58 PM   #30
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well,Tom, when I think of brick "veneer",I think of something that looks like brick but isn't really. my house is constructed (the front anyway) with actual bricks and mortar.
I've been reading plenty of forums and blogs and I still don't have a good idea about how the windows are going to come out. if you look at the pix I posted,you'll see that only two sides of each window are up against the brick,with the remaining two sides against siding. should I remove that siding first? ok,there's two sides of each window's nailing fins exposed,shouldn't be hard to remove the nails. now,we have the other 2 sides of each window,which is up against brick. should I use a recip. saw to cut the unseen nails as was suggested in one forum?
maybe I'm making too much of this. maybe everything will just work out.

tnx,

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