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Old 08-25-2010, 08:27 AM   #1
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Removing a window for painting...

Hi there,

Hope I've posted in the right area and that someone can help me here. I have been trying to remove a window for stripping and painting but haven't been able to manage it.

The window is small wooden framed window, image number 1, over a larger casement window which opens outwards both of which open outwards. This larger casement window lifted off easily from it's hinges, image number 3.

The small window is hung horizontally from the top of the window frame on the same type of lift off hinges as those used on the larger casement window below it, image number 2. The strange thing is that these hinges oppose each other so the window won't slide off. There is also not enough give on either of the hinges to slide off one side first and then the other.

Has anyone come across this before and do they know how to remove such a window?

Thanks for taking the time to read my post...

Image 1. Small window

Image 2. Small window hinge

Image 3. Lower vertical window, off hinges


Last edited by JJDoherty; 08-25-2010 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:31 PM   #2
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Hmmmmm, this is hard to say.
Are the hinges mounted with screw.

If you are painting just tape perimetor of glass and sand in place.


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Old 08-28-2010, 04:02 PM   #3
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Open the window and unscrew the hinges.
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Old 08-28-2010, 05:43 PM   #4
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it looks like some craftsman built those ...very nice..why you painting them?
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Old 08-28-2010, 07:00 PM   #5
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Painting Oak

That window deserve to be "Born Again".
A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words
Especially In The DIY Chatroom
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Old 08-29-2010, 08:29 AM   #6
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The wood looks like mahogany, but the painting issue is still there.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:39 PM   #7
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I have seen this type of manufacturing...My guess without seeing both sides of the window is the hinge was screwed in from the interior and the hole plugged and sanded flush. You may need to paint/stain in place. REMEMBER the existing stain can not be saved using this method so if you have the original stain that would be the kats ass otherwise you will need to match it. most paint or hardware departments have small sample packets. for about .50 cents a package. Also FYI Hardwood does not stain as easy as softwood so 2 applications may be required. If so, let dry 2-4 hours before 2nd staining

Get yourself a GEL stripper. I stress GEL that way it does not run down onto anything below. Wait 10-15 min and apply another coat of gel. this will loosen the clear coat and most of the stain. use a small metal scraper or putty knife and rags. once you have scraped most of it off just wipe the rest with a gel soaked rag(you can use paint thiner or mineral spirits for the final clean as well)
Afterwards just sand any left over spots/blotches.
Mask it off, tape first on the inside edges on the window then paper taped to the first line of tape, I use craft paper(comes on a roll) but news paper will work.
If you need to re-stain it its simple... Rub the stain on with a rag. let stand a few minutes then rub it off with a clean rag.
stain must sit for at least 8 hours before applying clear coat but 24 is best.
You can cause more problems if you dont let the stain dry first.
PS. Light sand between stain and clear coat or it will have a rough finish.


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