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cgoll 05-27-2011 01:12 PM

Pool lights
 
Does anyone have experience replacing Aqualumin II nicheless pool lights?

STL B. 05-27-2011 07:30 PM

yes...

cgoll 05-31-2011 09:08 AM

OK, it's been a few days but my wife surprized me with a get-away weekend and she impounded my laptop!

So, STL B., would you care to share? I would appre4ciate your thoughts on difficulty level, lessons learned, etc.

Thanks!

STL B. 05-31-2011 06:53 PM

They work fine.......they light up a pool fine......the bulbs are a little pricey.

Are you just needing to replace the light......not just the bulb?

cgoll 06-01-2011 01:39 PM

Not positive that I need to replace the light, but think I do.

Here's why: Pool was put in 2004. Lights worked fine the first year then intermittently the second. Third year they were dead. I've talked to some friends and acquaintances who had the same lights and their's needed to be replaced (not just the bulbs). Found out too late that my barber's were replaced after the warrantee period due to a known problem. So that's why I don't think it's just the bulbs.

The bulbs seem to be $13 - $20 each. Do I need to replace seals or anything else if I try the bulb replacement route first?


STL B. 06-01-2011 09:13 PM

I'm not aware of any design problems with that light, I've worked on many.

If you have two lights and both have been giving you problems I'd look at the breakers.

Just to be sure though you should pull both lights and check the seal and the bulbs. It's pretty simple just make sure to turn off the power first and have a little pool/aqua lube handy before you start.

1. SHUT OFF POWER
2. check with a meter to ensure the POWER IS OFF
3. remove the single screw from the ring around the light, once it's out the light will hinge/swing out and away from the wall mount. There should be enough cord coiled up behind it to lift it out of the water and lay it on the deck........make darn sure you dont knock it into the water later on!!
4. remove all the screws from the rear of the light (the ones that clamp the glass to the plastic) and dont lose any of them.
5. split/open the light it may be a little tight but it will come apart.
6. check for water or any signs of water (even condensation inside the lens)......if water is inside the light and it's dead.
7. check bulb.
8. if every thing checks out this far you should locate the wiring/deck box for each light (should be behind each light just beyond the deck, but some dual light set-ups will share this box and it makes it quit a pain to swap out lights) and make sure the connections are tight. If you feel comfortable remove the wire nuts and check continuity between the light cord and the contacts for the bulb.
9. reassemble everything, lube the gasket and tighten down to german torque spec's "good n tight"

If every thing checks out fine it's a breaker. If the bulbs bad...replace bulb and problem solved. If there's water in the light replace the fixture....$$$$$500.-$600...........so hope and pray it's a bulb.

cgoll 06-01-2011 10:00 PM

Hey! Thanks for the detailed reply! I got through step 3 of your response two years ago, but got intimidated by step 4! We have 3 young boys and my time for such repairs was limited. They are older now and will try again. Thanks for your patience as I tackle this!

STL B. 06-01-2011 10:12 PM

So are both lights doing the same thing at the same time?

cgoll 06-01-2011 10:33 PM

Well, neither of the two lights work at all now, nor have they for a few years.

To clarify, I'm not intimidated by electrical work, just limited by family obligations. Now that my youngest is 9, I can put more time into this.

I would appreciate your thoughts as I trouble shoot this.

I had power at the switch when I tested a couple years ago. Next step isto re-verify that and then to to test for power at the mast head (or ???) that seems to be the connection for the lights near the pump and lighting conduits.

Again, my first post was a probe to see who had experience in this area.

STL B, you obviously know this stuff. I look forward to your help!


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