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Old 10-24-2009, 06:31 PM   #16
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The pine tongue and groove has no


Looks like you getting lot of different points of view. Southern yellow pine is not the only pine used for flooring. I've seen many other types of pine including white pine. They are not used that often because they are softer and don't take abuse like maple or oak. They also tend to move around a lot more with the seasons. It is not uncommon to find flooring without tongue and groove on the ends of the planks. It will be fine as long as you butt the ends up tight to each other. You shouldn't have to face nail with 3 1/4 inch wide board but you should check the material with a moisture meter before you lay any of it down and with pine you will have a little shrinkage even if the moisture is okay. Also, make sure you have a decent substrate to attach the flooring to. A flooring nailer would be your best option.

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Old 10-24-2009, 07:24 PM   #17
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The pine tongue and groove has no


Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
i ran across this problem once, i ended up just cutting the grooves on BOTH ends on my table saw, then ripped out some scrap to glue in tight as a tongue. then i had t&g.... easy and cheap....

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ya mean like this? http://hardwood-floors.mgcrenovation...e_flooring.jpg
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Old 10-25-2009, 06:48 AM   #18
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exactically, except i just had to do the ends....

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Old 10-25-2009, 01:11 PM   #19
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The pine tongue and groove has no


So, here are my thoughts


cut a dado on the ends so a spline such as I linked will fit snug. There is no more reason to glue the ends than there is the lengths especially since the shrinkage will be greater the width of the board because of grain direction.

If the ends are not cut very cleanly, I would run them through a good table saw or radial arm saw or cut-off saw with a finish blade so the ends are very square and clean cut. BOTH ends. If you do not do this, there is a good chance of having a gap showing.

there would be no reason to nail the end with the spline system as it will only flex as much as any other board. Remember, the spline should be snug but not forced tight. It should also be of the same wood as the flooring so the swelling/shrinking cycle would be similar and equal.


your nails should be going into the floor joists, not just the plywood. They ply is not solid enough to hold a nail but the joist is. That means you use quite long nails. I would say around 2 1/4 (allowing for 1" penetration into the joist, through the 3/4" ply and depending on how thick the floorboards are, about 3/4 of that thickness plus the nails are going in at an angle).

as to what wood you are using:

it doesn't make any difference, if the wood you are using is what you want. You should understand any shortcomings of a softer wood though if this is a softer type of pine. If southern yellow pine, this is a very common and desirable floor wood.

Personally, I intend on installing a cork floor (talk about soft) and a bamboo floor in a couple of different rooms in my house. You install what you like and what you want.

when you sand this, you might want the help of a bigger person. A large heavy drum sander is the best way to go with successively finer grits. I cannot tell you what you should end with though. It's been too long for me to remember at the moment.

If you cannot handle the sander, you can damage the floor.

edit: I went back and caught something from another poster:

you should be allowing the boards to acclimate to the temp and humidity of the room at least 2 weeks before installing. You should open up all the packaging you believe you will need and attempt to separate the boards as best you can to speed the process.

Last edited by nap; 10-25-2009 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 10-26-2009, 12:56 AM   #20
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The pine tongue and groove has no


ahh, such good info! I'll take it all in and thanks again everyone for the help!
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:23 AM   #21
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The pine tongue and groove has no


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If you cannot handle the sander, you can damage the floor.
Very true! Just ask me how I know! How thick is the flooring you are putting down?

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Old 10-26-2009, 07:33 AM   #22
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Very true! Just ask me how I know! How thick is the flooring you are putting down?

Gary
Oh, that's funny, sort of.

Sorry to hear it sounds like you learned the hard way. Hopefully things all worked out well eventually.
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:00 AM   #23
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The pine tongue and groove has no


yup, after the first "oops", you learn to use those things correctly real fast....

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Old 10-26-2009, 09:46 PM   #24
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The pine tongue and groove has no


its about an inch thick, 3 and a half wide....omg... i saw this one show on DIY with this guy and a run away sander.... was it you
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:49 PM   #25
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The pine tongue and groove has no


should only smooth it out and then I'm told to use some lacquer thinner or something to get all the grit off. I may just use a small hand sander though.....
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:01 PM   #26
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The pine tongue and groove has no


have been making sure both sides are level before cutting too. The ends seem to be butting up good. Using 2 1/2 in nails and have a couple rows done. Looks good. I didn't make t/g ends or bisquits cause I don't know how. I appreciate the comments that are encouraging to use what I want to get the look I want. I was getting pretty nervous there. If I could have I would have went with 5 inch planks but it wasn't available to the extent I was willing to go to purchase it. It will still look nice, its "clean" pine, no knots and the boards haven't been warped. Have had the wood inside for almost a month. Doing a little here and there now with them since I have all the plywood laid now. The particle board underneath wasn't good enough and I listened. That would have been a brutal mistake. So once I get it laid, sanded and cleaned with lacquer thinner? I'll think about staining it, plan on using oil base polyurethane, not sure how many coats so my wood doesn't dent all up since it is a softer wood. Not as soft as bamboo though and do I have to sand in between coats. And, how long between coats, I don't have a lot of room to spare while doing this so time is "of the essence"
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:04 PM   #27
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The pine tongue and groove has no


[quote=brenda o;345835]should only smooth it out and then I'm told to use some lacquer thinner or something to get all the grit off. I may just use a small hand sander though.....[/quote
Lacquer thinner is very flammable, so that would be a very,very bad idea.
Try a vacuum to get the grit off.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:16 PM   #28
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The pine tongue and groove has no


that was the neighbors idea... when I have projects going, everyone has ideas so try to feedback on pretty much everything. And, if I stain it, is it still going to darken on its own even more?
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:26 PM   #29
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The pine tongue and groove has no


Quote:
Originally Posted by brenda o View Post
should only smooth it out and then I'm told to use some lacquer thinner or something to get all the grit off. I may just use a small hand sander though.....
a small hand sander will give you an uneven floor. You really need to use as big of a sander as you can. A hand held belt sander would be the smallest I would ever use but understand the limitations.

Ever run a floor polisher?

You can use something like this but you would need to use a belt sander after that to clean off the cross grain sanding that will leave the wood fuzzy.

Not as good as a large drum sander but definitely better than a small sander and less prone to damage by misuse.


small belt sander:


Last edited by nap; 10-26-2009 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:42 PM   #30
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The pine tongue and groove has no


i ve used yellow pine before-#2 - the mill i bought from called it porch lumber-haha- looked good in my 1850 farmhouse.


use a tack rag (moistened rag -i use minerals spirits) before applying urethane-2 -3 coats. the soft pine grain will still raise after coats of urethane- it'll take the fuzz off your socks. i would suggest to buff (floor machine) and wax.

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