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-   -   Patching seams in OLD wood floors (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/patching-seams-old-wood-floors-176356/)

JPM 04-05-2013 10:24 AM

Patching seams in OLD wood floors
 
I have a 1930s house that has old wood floors where the seams along them have small gaps from hairline to about a pencil ... I am looking for some type of filler to use to close these areas .... Any recommendations?

diycoder 04-05-2013 08:44 PM

I don't think there's any filler that will work. You should just live with it or take up the flooring and relay it, or put in a new one.

mj12 04-05-2013 09:23 PM

My brain is firing but only fragments are coming up. Sawdust? Crap, someone told me a nice trick to cover up a mistake somehow, and now I can not remember what it was. This is going to bother me more than trying to recall some old friends name....

diycoder 04-05-2013 09:35 PM

The reason that I don't recommend filling the cracks in a wood floor is that it will come out again when the floor expands & contracts. Sawdust & glue is a good trick for patching a crack in a wood door panel. Basically you put some glue over/in crack and then sawdust over it. You work the sawdust/glue into the crack, then wipe the panel with a wet paper towel. Then when it has dried, you sand it lightly before painting it.

r0ckstarr 04-06-2013 07:06 AM

Do you have any pictures of the flooring and cracks?

Quote:

Originally Posted by diycoder (Post 1153286)
The reason that I don't recommend filling the cracks in a wood floor is that it will come out again when the floor expands & contracts. Sawdust & glue is a good trick for patching a crack in a wood door panel. Basically you put some glue over/in crack and then sawdust over it. You work the sawdust/glue into the crack, then wipe the panel with a wet paper towel. Then when it has dried, you sand it lightly before painting it.

Thanks for this info. I have a very heavy wooden door that has a hair line crack in it. You can only see the light coming through if you stand at just the right angle. I was planning on painting it, and hoping that the paint would hide the crack. I think I will try this first.

joecaption 04-06-2013 07:30 AM

The reason door panels crack is because the paint bond keeps the panel from floating in the rail and stile.
As the outside expands it cracks the stuck panel.
If you want to fix it right not have crack again, I'd suggest cutting along the paint lines on both sides with a razer knife and tap with the ball of your hand until the panel is loose again.
Once it moves, shoot some Tite Bond II in the crack and use a shop vac on the other side to suck it all the way into the crack.
Press the two halves back together.
If you just fill the crack what to you thinks going to happen to the rail and stile joists when they contract? There not going to have room to move there going to start to come apart.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...ectedIndex=269

diycoder 04-06-2013 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r0ckstarr (Post 1153369)
Thanks for this info. I have a very heavy wooden door that has a hair line crack in it. You can only see the light coming through if you stand at just the right angle. I was planning on painting it, and hoping that the paint would hide the crack. I think I will try this first.

In my case, the crack was such you could see daylight through it so I was able to force the sawdust/glue combo into the crack. If it's a hairline crack, you might not be able to force the glue/sawdust into it. You might be better using a crack fix primer that is elastic to handle the expansion/contraction of the wood. Mad Dog Primer makes an interior one.

funfool 04-06-2013 07:47 AM

think you will need to refinish the floor for a good repair.
Little Joes hardwood floors is who I use. And have for years.
What he will do is totally sand the floor down. And then here is the hokey part :whistling2:

He uses a bucket of regular drywall mud, he adds wood filler or dye to it to get the color match as close as he can, adds liquid to make it spreadable over the floor.
So once the floor is totally sanded and prepped, he tosses the mud on the floor and uses a squeegee to push it around to fill the cracks. Lets it dry over night.
Next morning he uses his sander again to lightly sand and clean up the excess mud.
Then applies the oil based finish to it, it locks everything in place and looks and works great.

This would not work without the new oil finish to go over the top to hold it together.
I think anything you add to the floor without sanding and refinishing will just come out.

PoleCat 04-06-2013 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPM (Post 1152904)
I have a 1930s house that has old wood floors where the seams along them have small gaps from hairline to about a pencil ... I am looking for some type of filler to use to close these areas .... Any recommendations?

I have the same situation. Plus there are 4 rectangular sections that have been patched with OSB. I have two constraints. No carpet (pets) No new floor (money gone). Understanding that floor leveler is unsuitable for this purpose I still intend to skim the entire floor and paint it. I expect to have issues but I need to direct our resources elsewhere at this time.

JPM 04-06-2013 03:55 PM

Thanks ... I will follow same path, sparkle or plaster between then let dry and soft sand ... Stain and seal accordingly

mgp roofing 04-07-2013 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diycoder (Post 1153286)
The reason that I don't recommend filling the cracks in a wood floor is that it will come out again when the floor expands & contracts.

I agree. The gymnasium where my local kendo club trains has an area where large gaps resulting from installer error during construction, have been filled with wood filler--the filler is disintegrating and coming out leaving sharp edges on the gaps. Fortunately the rest of the floor is good--boards have been laid parallel to the short axis of the building, and more than likely all joists have been joined in the same area meaning movement is easiest in that spot.
A flexible filler suitable for movement joints in buildings may be a possible solution for the big gaps, just let the smaller ones be--we just put duct tape over the gaps--looks like crap, but solves the issue of foot injuries from the disintegrating filler :)

Bondo 04-07-2013 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPM (Post 1152904)
I have a 1930s house that has old wood floors where the seams along them have small gaps from hairline to about a pencil ... I am looking for some type of filler to use to close these areas .... Any recommendations?

Ayuh,.... 8 years ago, I had the same issue,...

Seein's it's a water front home, 'n I was doin' a waterfront great room cottage decor, I went with contrastin' painter's calkin',...

I went from This,...
http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/o...use/f11323.jpg

To this,...
http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/o...use/f11337.jpg

To this,...
http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/o...use/f14996.jpg

To this,...
http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/o...0529121620.jpg

While it's 'bout due to be re-done, complete with re-calkin', 'n sandin', 'n varnishin'...
The calkin' has shrunk abit is really the only reason it needs a full blown re-do,...
Just a year ago, I did a light sandin', 'n re-varnish on it...
It'll go til the next change of tenant...

joecaption 04-07-2013 11:09 AM

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...eak+Deck+Caulk


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