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Old 04-02-2012, 07:19 AM   #16
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one zone in sprinkler system dead


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Originally Posted by noquacks View Post
Oh, before I do that- timer box says "Richdel". Is that the valve brand?
Could be, Richdel is a sister brand of Irritol (like Ford and Mercury)

Here is a replacement:



http://www.amazon.com/Richdel-Sprink.../dp/B0002XH4S6

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Old 04-02-2012, 12:49 PM   #17
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Man, SD, BIG thanks! Now, I got something to go on! Will tackle this when I get home later.......
You are most welcome. I should have thought of captioning the photo before burying you in verbage.

Do be careful with the threads. They will be cut in plastic. If you strip them you are done for. And double check the integrity of the o-ring shown on the photo posted just above. If the actuator has been laying around and it is brittle, all your work will be for nothing. Remember it was an o-ring that caused a space shuttle to explode.

Last edited by user1007; 04-02-2012 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:40 PM   #18
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one zone in sprinkler system dead


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The solenoid acuator is that black cylindrical thing with wires coming out the top. Those wires should go back to the timer. As mentioned, your electrical tester should be reading close to decent voltage to the actuator. The actuator could have bought the farm though. The solenoid actuator should come loose easily. Just unthread it. You might want to turn the cutoff valve to the system off but you should not have to.

What is that severed green wire and the splice about, by the way? I actually cannot tell from the photo about how the solenoid is wired. Uncapped wires, even for low voltage, make me cringe a bit. Maybe a real sparky will chime in but I am seeing a lot of wiring for an irrigation valve. Looks some may be legacy and dead? But you say you are getting voltage delivered to the solenoid?

The handle thing is the flow control part of the valve.

See the little hex nut across from the solenoid? It is the manual override for the valve. If you open it you bypass the solenoid and the valve should open without you having to run back to the the timer to make adjustments.

Just a thought to pass on. It looks like that valve has some miles on it. Since you are thinking about it anyhow, you might want to invest chimp change in a kit for it to replace o-rings and other rubber type components. I haven't had to rebuild a valve in awhile but I should think the kits would not be more than $10 retail?


OK, back from work. Fun time. SD, I tested for 24v not at the 2 white wires on the solenoid, but the green and white common for only zone 4, to see if that wire was getting 24 v. Now, you mentioned that loose/broken green wire, and I did notice that, but having JUST gone out there to re inspect, geez, I found where its broken off!! A revelation! It goes into one of the 2 grey cylindrical M-80 looking thingys. Its the one at 12 oclock position, right behind the red cap! What are those mini cans??

yes, solenoid simply unscrews. But for now, Im gonna try to re attach the green wire, OK?

Pls advise......
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:03 PM   #19
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Looks like they could be water proof splice covers.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:19 PM   #20
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Yup, looke like the green wire thats ripped off that SD found for us is the culprit (just a guess, as I have not yet conected them)- the other end of it- small/short as it is, is burried inside that silicone squished "can/cap that protects a few wires as they junction inside. The top of the cylinder says Rainbow.

But Geez, its impossible to remove those wires to re connect them. Hate to just rip them out-
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:30 PM   #21
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But Geez, its impossible to remove those wires to re connect them. Hate to just rip them out-
I have never seen an irrigation valve wired like what you have. Those canister things must me waterproofing as suggested and I suppose a sharp razor knife to slice the one you need to get to attach the green wire is in your future.

What is the brown wire though? Is low voltage lighting running through the same box or near. Not that it matters.

I am concerned. You said your electrical tester is reading 24 volts to the solenoid. My theory that the green severed wire is culprit will not stand if you are getting close to 24V at the solenoid. It does look suspicious though. I would cap it off just to look compliant.

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Old 04-19-2012, 06:28 PM   #22
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one zone in sprinkler system dead


thanks, ssdester. sory for delay- was out of state for 2 weeks +. back to this- I cut into the capped/siliconed wire protector, and re attached the broken off green wire. Turned system on, and no luck. Apparaently it has no affect on the zone 4.

Not sure what that brown wire is. So confusing. So, I best star with a low cost solenoid at HD. Then go from there.

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