New door dead bolt and handle assembly

eric s

Mom decided to get a new set consisting of handle and bolt lock assembly. Took the old out and got a new bolt lock in. Luckily there are two sets as we will be replacing hardware in two doors.

1) There is a metal tab that I measured incorrectly and cut too short resulting in one bolt lock assembly that has too much open space between mating parts. It there a way to fix this or will I be buying a new bolt assembly?

2) Where the latch plate attaches the screw had been turned too many times or the door (wood) was/is cracked in that area. Solution is to put a glued dowel into it, let it dry and then re-attach plate?

3) Where deadbolt passes into door jamb it is tight as to where door has to be pulled towards exterior to lock and to unlock. This means that the strike plate has to be moved a little to the left as I look it dead on right? I will need to ream that area a little with a chisel as well I think. To move that strike plate I will need to use the dowel trick...do I need to let the glue dry or just repair and go?

4) I have not tackled the handle part yet and am hoping that I will not have to drill any existing holes out to get new parts in. If so I think that I could use a board and clamps to make this work...right?

5) The keys are quite wide and bulky prolly no point in getting the locksmith to make narrow ones as these must have fulcrum leverage in mind. However, I would like to get a locksmith out to make all the bolt locks and cylinders movable by one key...sound realistic? I'm sure we tried to get em like that at Expo and were told that this brand was not sold that way.

Thanks to you for your answers.

Sammy

1] This is I assume the tailpeice that is designed to break off according to door thinckness and you should be able to get another one versus a whole new assembly. Probably not at a big box though.

2] You can glue and dowel, but a longer screw would probably cure it. Especially on the frame side the strike plate should have longer screws to hit the stud versus the door trim.

3] You may be able to file the strike plate some depending on how far you need to move it. I like em somewhat tight but they do need to function. If it needs to move far, dowel or use longer screws as above.

4] Yes you can overbore using scrap wood as a guide for your hole saw.
Measure carefully and make sure the new holes cover the old. Dont forget about the latch hole when locating your new holes.

5] Most keys now have a wider head for increased grip for handicap compliance but you may be able to get them recut on smaller head/bow keys. If your speaking of keying all the locks alike, this can be done if the key fits in all of the locks. Least expensive is to take the locks to a local shop to avoid the service call.

eric s

That's Sound advice.

On 2) :

Yes a longer screw is called for for a more secure door. However I will have to go to the dowels in that case or file (file thanks) as the existing screw hole would "walk" the new longer screw in at the same "not" desirable place.

Yes to the locksmith with all dat...we'll see as goofy here put the bolt lock in before taking it all there.

On 1) :

Yes the tail piece and no: "NOT a BOX STORE item" "UM...Let me go get my manager." Maybe I'll track this down with the manufacturer of it.

Sammy

A local lock shop should be able to get you a new tailpeice and you can get the locks all rekeyed alike while your there.

eric s

Sammy:

I will do that. The single cylinder is a Baldwin type. Seems to be mainstream/popular enough that many a locksmith would carry that tail piece matching it.

Thank you.

Sammy

Baldwin is good quality and a local lockmith should be able to help you.

We get calls down this way here in Va. for their higher end, hand forged stuff for up in Billysburg. Some people call it Williamsburg but I aint so formal.

Good luck.