Need help retro-fitting flashing on a deck

Omaha

I've got a 10 year old house. It has the standard issue particle board siding (junk), and is starting to rot. To make matters worse, the cheapo windows are rotting as well.

I'm replacing all of it: New windows and new cement board siding.

Here's the problem:

I've got a huge deck that runs the full width of the house. I am concerned that when it was built two years ago, the builder sucked and did not flash the joist against the house.

Here's what happened: There was an existing deck that was removed. That deck was bolted directly to the house. When they pulled it off, the deck joist was "fused" to the siding and it tore off with it. So they just pulled it off, and attached the new deck to whatever was under the siding (I'm guessing they bolted to the rim joist of the house through whatever was there).

That's on part of it. The rest of the deck (the new one is larger than the one it replaced) is just bolted to the siding.

So, how do I cure all this and have a good water tight solution?

AtlanticWBConst.

One option can be seen at the link below. Flashing as listed in material # 6 of the diagram. This is not a fool proof way, nor the only way decks are flashed, but it should help you, in terms of not having to rip large amounts of material or decking away from you home to get it somewhat in better shape when dealing with drainage.

Link: http://www.bestdecksite.com/introLedgerPg1.htm

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- Build Well -

Omaha

Excellent diagram! That's exactly what I was looking for.

Here's the bad news: The decking was installed on a diagonal, which means if I'm going to get access to the ledger board I would have to pull off literally every piece of decking. Ugh.

I was thinking about this last night, and had the idea of unbolting the deck a section at a time (maybe four feet or so), then using a wedge to get myself a little working room (half an inch would do it) and sliding a piece of flashing behind the ledger that would correspond to the piece behind #6 in your diagram.

Think that would work? I assume that piece #6 is just there to help the ledger board slough off water, so the only downside of my approach is sacrificing that protection.

Seem like a workable plan?

bofusmosby

I am not a professional, so please don't take any advice from me. However, My deck was also installed at an angle like yours, and there is rot all along the side of the house from the deck holding water, leaves, etc. I plan on installing support piers under the deck about a foot away from the house, then using a saw to remove ALL of the deck from the house. The deck will be a free-standing deck, and by leaving about a 3-6" space between the deck and the house, this should prevent any more rot in the future. If it comes down to the house, or the deck, the deck goes.

Bofus

Omaha

Interesting notion. The challenge I have is that the deck is above a walk-out basement, and I don't want too many support columns underneath.

But you did give me an idea...I could run a saw parallel to the house (about 4" away from the siding) and cut through the deck boards, exposing the ledger board. Then I could come back and install 2x4 deck boards to fill in the gap.

It would take a little carpentry underneath to support the ends of the deck boards I cut off, but that's no big thing. Plus, it might actually look pretty cool...almost decorative on top.

bofusmosby

If you should go that route, be sure and get some feedback from some of the pros here first. Also, If you go ahead with it, I'd really like to see some photos of your work. Maybe it will give ME some ideas.

Bofus