Murray Snowblower - Carb Problems?
I have a small Murray Ultra 5 HP, 22" snowblower.
I have been a bad boy and have not taken care of it very well, no fuel stabilizer over summer, etc.
The problem now, after about 3 years, is that when start, engine does not run smoothly, and will die under load. Also, looks like is firing at muffler point??
I have drained the fuel from carb and tank and put in new fuel. Also have replaced the spark plug.
Still no difference.
I suspect the carb needs work.
I started to take apart to get to carb but looks like carb is pretty well enclosed and not easily accessed to spray carb cleaner in.
My question is......... would something like Gumout into the gas work........ or will I need to take carb apart and clean?
Time for a carb kit
looks like you might have gummed it real good.
Now if your kinda hand and can do a rebuild on the carb go for it.
If not just put in a new carb.
To make a dessison look at the cost of the carb vs the cost of a rebuild kit
Thanks Earl, but can anyone directly answer my question? That is, might there be success in using carb cleaner (like Gumout) in gas, or is taking the carb off and cleaning it the next step?
I would think that rebuilding/replacing the carb would be a few steps down the road.
you can try..
It may clean it a little bit, but by using it you may knock some crap loose that migates further down in to the carb and might mess something up by cloggin up something. it just is better to pull it and and try spraying it down with carb cleanner if you want to do that, But remember you might have a bit of varnsh in the carb that will cause problems further down the road just either throw a carb kit at it and replace all the seals and stuff or better yet pop a new carb in it.
Is Tesumcuh(spelling?) engine.
Ok, I took carb off and apart and sprayed with cleaner.......
but piece fell out and not sure where it goes.
Suspect it is a needle valve? Small part with pointed end with little spring like wire on other end. Does it just sit in hole where gas comes in and then float rests on top of it....... or does the spring end go into/over/around something????
My guess is that you have really gummed things up. Start with flushing the fuel tank and replace any filters or air dried hoses. If you have gone this far, install a new needle and seat (it comes with the carb kit). DO NOT REUSE ANY GASKETS OR SEALS!!! Fire can happen. The needle retainer (spring wire thingie) clips to the needle and goes on top of the float arm. Needle on bottom, spring on top.
I have a farm and need to rebuild carbs on several items like chains saws and small engine often. I have seldom if ever seen gum or varnish build ups that cause a problem that results in rough engine performance. However I mostly see problems at the float valve. It seems like any small piece of grass,hair etc will cause fuel to continue past the seat causing fuel to overfill the bowl and result in over-rich mixture. Here is a time tested method to fix 90% of the problems that you may encounter with carburators on seasonal equiptment.
1. Get a plastic bowl to put your carb parts into.
2. Take the carb off the engine
3. There is a hi and low speed needle valve turn them clockwise until they stop and count the turns. Be careful not to turn them in too tightly. Usually the hi speed valve is about 1 1/4 turns out and the low speed about 1 turn out.
4. Now take out both needle valves and place in your plastic dish.
5. Take out the pin holding the float. Note how the spring attaches. look for the needle valve that is part of the float assembly and put it in you plastic dish along with the rest of the float parts
6. Now put an air tip on you compressor and blow thru the small hle above the float assembly, thru the hi and low speed needle valve that you removed and any other passage way that you find. Alternate spraying carb cleaner and air thru these passages.
7.Now inspect the needle valve shut off for the float assembly. The tip is neopreme make sure it is not distorted and has a good point. You should twist the point between your fingers since the tip tends to get hard after time. this may soften it enough to get a perfect seal. If there is any doubt replace this because it is the most probable cause for rough opperations.
8. I have never had to readjust the float level. It doesnt change over time by itself. Unless you bent things taking them apart it should still be ok.
9. I have reused gaskets if they did not rip on disassembly without problems.
10. turn in the hi and low spped needle valves until they stop and then turn back out the number of turns that you counted.(usually 1 1/4 for hi and 1 for low)
e-mail me if you have any other questions good luck
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