DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (
-   General DIY Discussions (
-   -   Moving an 8x10 wooden shed 100 miles; how? (Video of shed inside) (

snowfall 05-04-2010 02:01 AM

Moving an 8x10 wooden shed 100 miles; how? (Video of shed inside)
I have a dilemma. I purchased an 8 x 10 wooden shed out of the classifieds which I need transported to my house. The travel distance between the shed and my house is exactly 102 miles. I need a relatively inexpensive way to get it transported from the seller's backyard to mine. Here is a video tour of the shed so you can get an idea of what I'm dealing with:

Here is what I've tried so far...
First, I called rental companies. I've called around 15 rental companies in the area, with my goal being to either rent a truck or trailer to move the shed it turns out, none of the rental companies (including the major chains like Uhaul, Ryder, Penske and so on) rent out any trucks or trailers that will fit the dimensions of the shed. They're all the wrong size...they'll be 12 feet long but only 6 feet wide. Or they'll be 8 feet wide but only 8 feet long. Usually the 8 foot width is the issue; most of them are around 6 or 7 feet wide. One place I called *did* have a flatbed trailer that was 8 feet 6 inches wide, but it was something like 40 feet long and also a giant 18-wheeler type thing, and with me being just one person with no experience in driving semis or loading small buildings onto them, I figured that would not be a viable solution. 8 by 10 and 8 by 12 flatbeds or trailers DO exist, the rental companies just don't seem to carry them. The measurements of the shed do conform to the highway regulations for size, so that's not an issue. The maximum width in my state (Maine) is 8 feet 6 inches and the maximum height is 13 feet 6 inches...the shed is smaller than both those dimensions.

After I gave up on the rental companies, I asked a local handyman if he could do it. He said yes, but it wouldn't be cheap. He would have to bring along two of his coworkers who I would also have to pay and the three of them would have to disassemble the shed and transport it back in their trucks in bits and pieces and then rebuild the thing in my backyard. The cost he quoted me for this was a little over a thousand dollars, which is way more than I can afford to pay.

After this I tried calling movers and moving companies. None of them said they could do it either. I think they're mostly used to moving furniture and the like rather than sheds. After that I started calling towing, trucking and hauling businesses in the area...close, but no cigar. None of them said they would be able to do it either, at least not without tearing apart the shed first and moving it in pieces (which would require hiring someone to rebuild it, again costing more than I could afford). I think most of them dealt more with hauling away trash to a dump rather than moving a shed from one house to another.

After that I put a want ad in the classifieds offering to pay anyone who would be able to move the responses. After this I did an internet search for shed moving and found some businesses that would be perfect and specialized in moving sheds (example:, but they're all ten or more states away or on the opposite end of the country so that doesn't help much.

So finally, I'm here, wondering if there's anything else I could do or try that I hadn't thought of yet. I know it's physically possible to move this shed...I often see mobile homes 10 times the size of the shed being transported on the highway, so I know it can be done, I'm just not sure how. If anyone has any ideas or advice, it would be much appreciated!

Willie T 05-04-2010 07:55 AM

Whatever you decide to do keep this in mind........... "Approximately 12 feet high" is not an accurate enough measurement for highway travel on a trailer. The legal maximum is measured from the road surface to the peak of the shed AFTER it is loaded... this includes the skids, too.

Sounds like you are going to be illegal, and require special permitting................. as well as a route that keeps you away from having to travel under any low overpasses.

Photos usually show off a building as being in better shape than it is. Your video doesn't. There's a lot of repair to be done there... BEFORE... the shed suffers the rigors of loading, and a 100 mile trip, and unloading. It's going to only be worse once it makes that journey.

And is that cheap, thin glass, or plastic? Glass might be a problem, not only in keeping it from breaking, but also in the legal aspects of transporting it on a highway.

Truthfully, I'd go with the guy who wants to rebuild it on your site. $1,000 sounds pretty reasonable for all he's offering.

12penny 05-04-2010 08:06 AM a wrecker. Most towing companies have roll back trucks. Let the truck do the work.

And like willie said, you could have a height issue.

CoconutPete 05-04-2010 08:09 AM

Call more towing companies. One of my best friends owns one and he moves the most random items I could ever think of. Backhoes, forklifts, snorkel lifts, sheds, etc. etc. etc.

tpolk 05-04-2010 08:19 AM

we have shed builders in our area who deliver new or relocate sheds. also tool supply companys that offer boom lifts may help but i doubt their ins will allow

Scuba_Dave 05-04-2010 08:42 AM

Yeah, 12' to the peak...then another 18"-3' on the back of a trailer/truck
Sp you end up at 13'6" for a flat trailer & maybe 15' for a truck, that's pretty high

I looked at moving a new shed (free) just over 10 miles
Wasn't worth the hassle here, too many wires

Cost might be more then its worth
As you are now paying for insurance & labor of the mover(s)

boman47k 05-04-2010 09:35 AM

I moved one of a similiar size years ago. It was on a deck-like surface sitting directly above another building on posts. I disassembled the roof (tin) and seperated the walls intact. Pulled the nails in the decking and beams. Loaded it on a trailer and borught it about 30 or 40 miles and reassembled one block high. It was not sealed and only had 2 small windows. The trailer was an old car hauler. Pulled it home with a small toyoto truck. V6, I think.

Total cost..maybe a tank of gas for Toyota b23 (I think) pickup.

I did similiar to what has been described but not with 4 people. I took it apart and lowered the pieces from atopp the the building this was built above on posts going to the ground on the outside of the lower building. I did use a rope in my situation. I took it apart and my mother helped me a little getting the pieces down. I stacked the pieces in my sisters yard. Went back with the truck and trailer. I had to lay the walls with the bottoms in the trailer and the tops on the fender rails. I think my son helped me load the pieces.

When I got it home, I unloaded it and assembled it by myself. I pulled the deck mat off and rebuilt on blocks. I then pulled the walls off the trailer and got thme upright on a pieceof 4' schedule 40 pvc drain pipe, rolled them to the deck, manhandles them onto the deck and nailedthem back together in the corners. I then removed the roofing mat's from the trailer and reassmbled them and used the same tin.

I was in my mid 40's then. Not sure I would attempt it now. Its interesting to think I even did this now.

Even though I did the unloading and reassembling alone, I do not advise doing this alone the way I did. Moving those walls still intact with the siding and all on the pipe was a little precarious to say the least. The weight was not the problem, but it was a pretty good balancing act.

Btw, when I got the walls rolled to the deck, I would have them parallel to the deck then lay them over onto the deck. I then raised them into position, braced and reattached them to one another.

My shed is very much like yours. 8' walls and gable ends. Not counting the deck, I'd say may is maybe 10' from the deck to the ridge.

Thurman 05-04-2010 12:54 PM

First-I think the video was far better than pictures, and a nice video at that. I agree with almost all of the other postings, you have purchased a problem. My first thought was "what's in the window openings"? Glass, screen material, or maybe plastic? Glass would have to be removed, the movement of the shed will break it as it is being loaded, or moved, or unloaded. Screen or plastic, no problem. The door is the same issue and the door will have to be secured better. Some internal diagnol bracing is in order IF you decide to move this. Nail 2x4's to the floor, 2x4 X-bracing between the floor and rafters to brace this, both ways. The unit would have to placed on some type runners, like 4x4's. I have moved these type sheds, after internal bracing, on both flat type trailers and car hauler type trailers. Some car haulers have an inner fender clearance of eight feet, some don't. We had one shed which did not fit between the inner fenders, so we placed the shed on one fender and let the other side sit on the trailer. We drove slow, with it tilted, and it did well. Locally, we can get the assistance of the police to move something like this at night. We don't require permits if everything falls within limits, all overhead obstructions are checked out and clearance is O.K. Moving at night means much less traffic and requesting police helps with any traffic control, if needed, say to swing wide at corners, at no charge. As has been stated--local businesses which sell these units have contracts with local wrecker services to use "roll-back" wreckers to move them to site. I just two weeks ago saw a 12 ft. x 30 ft. unit moved to site one afternoon in the thick of our traffic, on a roll-back, with only red flags hanging on the back end. That 13-6 sounds low for max height to me though. David

xxPaulCPxx 05-04-2010 03:09 PM

Make your own trailer?
Instead of trying to fit this onto something existing, why not just make a trailer just to move this instead?

Here is what I imagine: Cover the sides with 3/4" plywood, screw it into every stud you can find. Do the floor too, so you end up with a stiff box on the sides and floor.

Now jack it up so it's 12" off the ground

Around the outside, attach 2 steel C beams to the outside. Square it off in back, enclosing a 2' gap from the back wall - this is where you will mount the wheels. On the front, angle it to the center to meet up and put a 2" ball hitch receiver. Attach a triangle reflector to the back and drive it back using only country roads.

Think farm trailer!

kwikfishron 05-04-2010 05:20 PM

199 Attachment(s)
Wow, this must be a really nice shed.

snowfall 05-04-2010 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by Willie T (Post 437356)
Whatever you decide to do keep this in mind........... "Approximately 12 feet high" is not an accurate enough measurement for highway travel on a trailer. The legal maximum is measured from the road surface to the peak of the shed AFTER it is loaded... this includes the skids, too.

Sounds like you are going to be illegal, and require special permitting................. as well as a route that keeps you away from having to travel under any low overpasses.

When I went down to see it I measured the width and length but was in a hurry so I forgot to measure the height, which is why I put approximately. I'm judging based on how tall I measured up to it when I was next to it and in it, but now that I look at it again, it probably is not as tall as 12 feet high. You're right about the height problem though...for some reason it slipped my mind that the height of the trailer/flatbed would be an additional part of the 13 foot 6 inch regulation.

I suppose one solution to this would be to flip it over so it would be traveling on its back instead of upright. The back of the shed would be resting on the trailer and the front of the shed (with the door) would be facing upward which would make it 8 feet tall. Unfortunately this would then present the problem that it would be around 10 feet in length no matter which way you move it. If it was turned 90 degrees in any direction, the width would still either be 10 feet (the front/back of the shed) or 10-12 feet (the height). I assume a wide load permit would have to be bought in any case.


Originally Posted by Thurman (Post 437474)
My first thought was "what's in the window openings"?

It's just screen material, which I would be removing anyway and replacing with plexiglass once it's in my backyard.

Thanks for the rest of the suggestions, I think I may have the help of a second, more knowledgeable mover now, so I can run them all by him to see what he thinks would be best.

tpolk 05-04-2010 06:13 PM

please let us know, i have a feeling moving that distance will be the cost of a new shed. maybe you could air lift it :eek:

rustyjames 05-04-2010 06:53 PM

It's not really 102 miles, you have to figure it to be 204. You should reconsider the guy(s) that'll do it for 1,000.00. I doubt that any hauler would touch doing it for less--they're a pain to load, (and always the possibility of getting stuck) strapped down, and then there's always the risk of pieces flying off and creating a hazard to others.

boman47k 05-04-2010 07:09 PM

Surely whoever moves it, will brace the side and front. With the big openings, they do not look as though they would take much racking.

Wildie 05-04-2010 08:22 PM

That shed is of simple construction and can be disassembled easily!
Just saw off the nails with reciprocating saw. Lay the sections on a trailer and away you go!

My daughter bought a 8X12 shed that came in six pieces and we had it assembled in about 4 hours!

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:22 AM.

vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1