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chulett 05-23-2011 10:42 PM

milling own pine tongue and groove
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Is it cheaper to buy the pine tongue&groove or purchase planer and table router?

I have roughly 2000 sq ft of flooring to put down..I want to use some left over doug fir I have from stairs to create transitions..will have to cut em down from 4x10 doug fir that are 10 ft long

Question is..should I just buy a dewalt planer and a router the tongue and groove router bit for the table and make my own?

am wanting to put southern yellow pine as for transition with doug will be around tile in kitchen..around stone floor in main enterance and be between doug fir posts..I have timber frame home I am trying to finish

Look at photos and please give me some advice!

second photo is of pine t&g already installed on loft

chulett 05-23-2011 10:46 PM

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ok couldnt attach last photo here is another one

oh'mike 05-24-2011 05:33 AM

I would make my own ---But then again I already own a planer and have a good router table.

Making your own transitions allows you to create just the right width and shape for the situation.

You know you are looking for an excuse to get a planer!

Seriously--once you own one you will find your work will improve in quality,speed and creativity.

Set your self up----Mike---

DangerMouse 05-24-2011 06:36 AM

If I had the $$$.......

A friend of mine has one, and all I can say is WOW!


kwikfishron 05-24-2011 07:03 AM

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If you’re looking for an excuse to buy tools then go for it. If you’re into woodworking a planer and router is a must.

I doubt you’ll save money on one project though, my T&G bits alone cost $130.

DangerMouse 05-24-2011 07:17 AM


Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 653808)
If you’re into woodworking, a planer and router is a must.

Absolutely!! I love mine and use them both frequently. I cannot imagine trying to make my 'magic boxes' without them!
I wish I could afford the woodmaster my friend has though. He spent over $5,000 for that, some molding bits, and the vacuum setup. *Color me VERY jealous!* He (we) ran off over 5,000 sf of Australian Jarrah flooring in single pass mode and it was awesome. Ran off tons of Brazilian walnut too, and both those are very hard woods. Made in USA too, of course. If you can afford top of the line, I recommend this molder/planer highly. Now if they'd just pay me to say that.... :laughing:


chulett 05-24-2011 08:11 PM

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I live in Missouri...Chillicothe to be exact...bout an hour northeast of Kansas city. I'll add that to my profile..thanks!

So the dewalt planer is round 400, the routing table is round 200, and the t&g router bit is round 80..then gotta buy the wood to cover the appox 1800 to 2000 sq ft (havent actually measured yet)

You think Ill be money ahead going this way instead of ordering the pine t&g? I will still have to cut and mill the doug fir for the transitions

Whats your thoughts?

photo shows some of the pine t&g up in the loft that was ordered

oh'mike 05-25-2011 06:04 AM

I'm guessing the the cost of having the flooring made at the mill is a good value.

They use machines most of us could not afford--allowing them to plane--size and shape in one pass.

Often the cost is not much and the work is better that we could make with affordable tools.

Still,You need a planer and router set up for the installation and custom work---

A job site router table can be made for almost nothing and will out perform most store bought ones.

I consider 5 foot width to be a minimum if you are working long stock---That's hard to buy but easy to build.---Mike---

Daniel Holzman 05-25-2011 07:39 AM

The question of cost always comes down to what you think your time is worth. Many DIY folks enjoy what they are doing, and price their time at zero. I know when I built my cabinets for the kitchen, if I had valued my time anywhere near what my regular job pays, I would have bought them from a custom woodworking shop. However, I enjoy building cabinets, so in the end it was worth it, not financially, but psychically. My guess is you will find the same thing, there is no way you can compete economically if you put a reasonable cost to your time, especially after you account for equipment purchase, setup, bits etc. But if your time has zero or very low cost, have at it. But I suggest buying quality tools, there is nothing worse than dealing with machines that don't work well, break down, or are so poorly built they are dangerous.

chulett 06-03-2011 08:38 PM i am seriously thinking of doing own t&g uncle has let me borrow a rigid 13" planer..its really kool! So I would get bosch router table and the router bit etc...upstairs loft has pine tongue and groove pine...looks like white pine...1x6...

My question is can I use the 1x6 white pine from lowes? Do I need to start with a thicker board like a 2x6? I would route it the plane down to the 3/4"...all opinions are welcome!

user1007 06-04-2011 08:17 PM

I would get the material kiln dried at a lumber yard or plan on spending a couple days sighting lumber at Lowe's they don't bother to check for 2 out of 10 pieces that might be flat and straight enough to survive the planer and router.

I would plane the lumber first and then cut your T&G. You might just as well do the first cut sanding on the stuff too.

Pine is beautiful and of course was used upstairs for ages in antique homes that had more expensive and showy hardwoods downstairs. It is not exactly the most durable of flooring though. You sure you want pine?

chulett 06-04-2011 09:09 PM

yep..pine is what was put on loft and the roof is t&g of house is doug fir..I will call local lumber company and ask how much for kiln are you saying get the 2x6?

JoeLena 06-05-2011 06:16 AM


Originally Posted by chulett (Post 661265)
yep..pine is what was put on loft and the roof is t&g of house is doug fir..I will call local lumber company and ask how much for kiln are you saying get the 2x6?

No. If you get it at a good yard they should have unfinished boards closer to the thickness you want. 4/4 or 5/4 and plane to what you want,

user1007 06-05-2011 08:29 AM

Indeed. No reason to plane off that much wood or lay down a floor that thick. Tell the lumber yard what you are up to and that you will take the stock in whatever length so long as it is straight, flat and around the same starting color. Unless you are set on 6' lengths for some reason? The lumber yard sells by the board foot (plus the length trim cost) so will not care. If you can be flexible you may actually save a few schillings as your order might enable them to rotate inventory a bit.

Make sure you ask that the sight the lumber for you. A good supplier will especially if they know your intended purpose. A box store could care less and they obviously do not yet have a video to teach the minimum wage aprons how to turn a board on edge or flat to see what is going on.

Do plan on having a place to keep the dry lumber that way until you are ready to work with it. And hey! The lumber yard will probably drop it off for no or minimal charge if you play your cards right.

In addition to kiln dried, discuss the grade of lumber you can afford. Pine is very "naughty" stuff (old joke I know) in the lower grades. Again, the box stores seem to just toss it all together.

oh'mike 06-05-2011 08:41 AM

A time saving tip on milling the tongue and groove---

Set up two routers ---one for the tongue and another for the groove--

Making your own router table will make the job easier and safer. Pick up a 3/4 " sheet of melamine covered particle board--cut it to about 3 foot wide--mount the routers under the sheet --make two fences --screw the left hand side and use a clamp to hold the right hand side.

You will appreciate the long table----make or buy feather boards to ensure a safe and consistent cut.

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