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itakitez 06-07-2009 10:17 PM

Japanese tea room
 
Intro description:
I have a 6 ping (280x240) room with high ceiling (3.4m+) and concrete floor that I want to convert to "japanese tea room"

Project description
This means building a false floor (60cm high and comfy seating height) to stand/sleep on with a central hole (60x60) covered by a table. The other area will then be covered directly by Tatami mats or tongue and groove. Then one 40cm wall-to-wall strip will be covered by plywood and a "built-in wardrobe/cupboard" will be constructed atop the plywood. (clearer idea from picture). One corner is cut away slightly, but there will be two stairs there with slipper/shoe storage inside (the japanese way).

The hope is to actually make this a multi functional multi use room

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...5_225374_n.jpg

1. storage under the floor without losing room width

2. tatamis are soft enough to sleep on, so the table will drop down and a 60x60 tatami place ontop for guest bedroom (with futon covers in case of extra comfort)

3. tea ceremony/drinking tea is good on cold winter days in a small room - very great experience as reminder of my time in japan

The issue(s) Im having is:

1. how big should the posts (marked purple) and struts (red and green) be? I will hope to have 4 adults sitting around the table or 2-4 adults sleeping)

2. is there a safety issue with "enclosed wooden frame"?

3. how to fix the posts to the floor/wall?

4. are my current spacings sufficient?

5. how should I lay the struts? Lay the greens over the posts then nail the reds ontop or cut out bolt together?

Links to relevant topics or advice would be greatly appreciated

* the floor of the current room can be taken as level

itakitez 06-10-2009 05:30 AM

so I worked out how to "secure" the central island posts, just by building a rectangular frame (see pic) then just J-bolts to secure to the walls and floor (concrete)

any advice on the spacings? and size of wood?

The guy in BnQ recommended 4x6, which seems a little excessive

I also guess I will have to use notch cuts where the wood joins to gain a flat surface - well, wish me luck, gonna start on the project once I gain good wood size advice

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._5511551_n.jpg

Ron6519 06-10-2009 09:08 AM

I would like to help, but I have no idea what half the terminology means. What's a, " 6 ping" room? Is this a free standing building or a room in an existing structure? Do you have an American measurement version of this?
Ron

itakitez 06-29-2009 10:11 PM

hi Ron

sorry for the confusion

the measurements are in cm so 60cm = 2 foot, 90 = 3 foot

the 6 ping is 280cm by 260cm, or 102"x110" (inch) (a "kids room" in US/Europe)

The room is concrete and built against earthquakes, so a solid reinforced concrete frame with interior conrete (i guess non-load bearing) walls

Is that enough info? My friend recommended using 2x2 (inch) wood to build the frame and then space them at 50-70cm and by laying plywood (MDF) over that frame, the weight would be evenly distributed enough

any thoughts?

Ron6519 06-29-2009 10:40 PM

If this is being laid on a concrete floor, you'll need a plastic vapor barrier between the concrete and wood 2x2's. It will also need to be run up the wall as far as the wood will go.
You mention plywood and MDF as though it's interchangable in use, but it's not. In this case you want plywood, and since the 2x2's are going to be 24" apart, you want 3/4" ply( or whatever the metric translation is).
What covers the plywood?
Ron

itakitez 06-30-2009 03:23 AM

hi ron,

yes I was planning on plywood, but I wasnt sure of the BrE AmEng translation

thanks for the tip - althought the floor is tiled so I still need the vapour barrier? In your experience, would this cause the concrete walls to get damp? The house is in the mountains, so during winter damp is an issue. Is it also importannt that this room is on the 2nd floor so only has one exterior wall

Also, I was recommended to change from J-Bolts to just using a (compressed air) nail gun to shoot through the wood and directly into the wall - however, how would this effect the vapour barrier - Im reading up on vapour barriers now

I was also recommended to leave the bottom step "open" and install an electric "extractor" fan to keep air circulating (most things would be stored in plastic boxes under the floor, but I can understand the need for this

I appreciate any comments since its tough to get good (Western level) advice and if I pay a contractor, he will do it the easiest (and not necessarily the safest or longest lasting way).

Plus, I have a month to try and sort this since a lodger may move in then and we need to clear a room out!


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