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-   -   Insulation behind brick chimney? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/insulation-behind-brick-chimney-86531/)

scoutn 11-12-2010 12:31 PM

Insulation behind brick chimney?
 
Hi,

I have a 30 year old home or so and I am probably the first person to look at the caulking where the aluminum siding meets the brick chimney. I was tuck pointing the mortar of the chimney and noticed that the caulking was in bad shape as well.

After poking around, it looks like the chimney was build right against what looks to be drywall. The drywall has crumbled and rotted all along this vertical joint. I am noticed pink insulation as I removed the loose drywall.

I was planning on shoving insulation in the gap and using an aluminum angle on the inside corner, caulking the angle where it meets the brick and siding. I should probably do something behind the siding as well as it has quite a bit of play behind it.

I'm in Ontario, Canada, so we get some nasty weather.

Would this be sufficient? What would be the proper way to repair this? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7737049/IMG0...1011071425.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7737049/IMG0...1011071426.jpg

Ron6519 11-12-2010 07:15 PM

How did you get access to the drywall if the chimney is over the top of it?
What is this chimney for?
The 80's were a building boom time. Crap was built ASAP.
Brick against sheetrock would qualify.
The chimney should have been up against exterior ply covered with tar paper with brick ties.
Do you have any interior shots of the chimney?
Ron

scoutn 11-12-2010 08:03 PM

Thanks for your reply Ron;

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 533269)
How did you get access to the drywall if the chimney is over the top of it?

The siding gave me access because the drywall (well, what I assume is drywall) has crumbled behind it. I'm able to push on the siding. The drywall crumbled out from behind the siding and chimney.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 533269)
What is this chimney for?

The wood burning fireplace and gas furnace. (Two flues)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 533269)
The 80's were a building boom time. Crap was built ASAP.
Brick against sheetrock would qualify.
The chimney should have been up against exterior ply covered with tar paper with brick ties.
Do you have any interior shots of the chimney?
Ron

It should have been, but wasn't. I don't have any interior shots of the chimney but it looked okay last year when I was up there.

Ron6519 11-12-2010 08:45 PM

There's not information for me to advise.
Ron

Wildie 11-13-2010 01:58 PM

If you have crumbling drywall in there, its a sure sign that water is getting in there.
I would suggest that you would go inside and poke the drywall with a screw-driver and see if its punky from moisture getting in.
If its damaged, cut out a section, pull back the vapour barrier and insulation from the inside and have a look see.
'J' mold should have been placed against the chimney and caulking used to make a seal. In the same way that a window or door opening treated.
If moisture has invaded, its an invitation to mold and opening up the inside wall would give you an opportunity to check this out!

scoutn 11-13-2010 04:55 PM

Thanks for the reply Wildie.

I think going in from the inside is inevitable. What would you suggest I put between the studs and chimney once I've ripped out the drywall? I'm sure it's going to be a mess.

Thanks!

Wildie 11-13-2010 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoutn (Post 533682)
Thanks for the reply Wildie.

I think going in from the inside is inevitable. What would you suggest I put between the studs and chimney once I've ripped out the drywall? I'm sure it's going to be a mess.

Thanks!

I assume that your house is standard wood framing. If so an opening should have been fashioned in the same manner as a door or window opening is done. (kings, jacks, lintel)
However, if the chimney was a retrofit, this may not be the case.
Perhaps, you should get an idea of what exists inside and then post again with your findings. Then, specifics can be discussed.

scoutn 11-14-2010 11:06 AM

I opened up the wall and it's mouldy. Not happy.

This is a picture of the opening. It's a small rectangle, maybe 4" x 6" but it's enough to tell.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7737049/IMG_3320.JPG

This is a picture of the outside corner where I am having the problem. You can see there is not 'J' mold and behind the siding and the chimney is drywall, not plywood.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7737049/IMG_3325.JPG

I don't want to have to rip down the whole chimney, so how would I go about fixing this? I think I have to pull open the wall from the inside, replace the insulation and rip out the mouldy drywall. What I do after that is what I am having trouble determining. How can I put new material between the studs and chimney? And what?

Ron6519 11-14-2010 02:58 PM

There's an associated issue, that to me, has a more serious consequence then deteriorated sheetrock. The chimney is held to the house by brick ties that have been nailed to the framework and integrated into the mortar joints of the chimney. If water has gotten behind there, there's a good chance the brick ties have been compromised or at least began to deteriorate.
This would be at the top of my, "Check" list.
Ron

Wildie 11-14-2010 11:11 PM

I can understand why you aren't happy!

The siding can be removed without a great deal of trouble.
Then cut the outside wall sheeting away, back to the center of the first stud to the left.
This will allow you to rip out the moldy insulation. Then wet the cavity down with a strong solution of bleach.
If there isn't a stud adjacent to the brick-work, you will have to install one to support the new sheeting and the J molding.
Note: There's a tool available that is used to pop vinyl siding apart, so that you don't have to remove it all the way from the top.

Ron6519 11-15-2010 06:16 AM

Poster mentioned aluminum siding.
Ron

Wildie 11-15-2010 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 534516)
Poster mentioned aluminum siding.
Ron

Looking back, I see that you are correct! Aluminum siding can't be popped (as far as I know) so this would require it to be removed from the top down.

scoutn: If you have to remove aluminum siding, I found that rather trying to ply it off, I drilled into the nail heads, down to the shaft and the head just falls off. The shaft can then be hammered down flush.

scoutn 11-15-2010 05:34 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll see what I can do. It's going to be a lot of work but I think it's something that needs to be done before winter really hits.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again. (Awesome forum!)

Wildie 11-15-2010 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoutn (Post 534859)
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll see what I can do. It's going to be a lot of work but I think it's something that needs to be done before winter really hits.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again. (Awesome forum!)

Good luck! Snow is forecast this weekend. :mad:


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