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Old 02-12-2008, 12:56 PM   #1
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How serious is this mold?


How serious is this mold. It is on the drywall on the house. The house has been vacant for ten years and was built in the late 40s. It doesn't have central heat and air. The home inspector mentioned it and made a fairly big deal about it but he also owns a mold clean up business. Other people have seen it and said it can be cleaned up with bleach and air out the house then repaint the walls. I have been told since it was shut up for so long with no ventilation that is why the mold began. Any info would be appreciated. He quoted me $500-$600 to clean it up with a ozone shock. Thanks.
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Old 02-12-2008, 12:58 PM   #2
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Here are some more pics.
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:41 PM   #3
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How serious is this mold?


How big of an area has this mold? Have you checked for moisture damage behing the drywall?
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Old 02-12-2008, 02:53 PM   #4
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It is around the entire inside walls. No he didn't check behind the drywall.
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Old 02-12-2008, 03:18 PM   #5
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Honestly, I wouldnt buy any house that had visible mold of any kind. You never know how far reaching it might be behind that drywall. I was looking at a house and found mold in the basement, had it tested and it turned out to be the worst sort of mold you can have. I ran away from that deal pretty darn fast. Dont get into something unless you are absolutely sure it is only minor and on the surface.
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Old 02-12-2008, 04:42 PM   #6
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If that's all it is it wouldn't scare me away
But it won't be quick, easy, or cheap, if it's all over the place
Not a deal breaker for me...for the right price though

To properly clean this, I would probably step up to Zinsser's Perma-Wash as opposed to just a bleach/water, or even a Jomax mix
That PW can kill germs and other ugly nasties that may have accumulated or passed through the house while it was un-attended

Then a proper fix would be to prime the whole thing with a pigmented shellac such as Zinsser's BIN
Yes this is stinky stuff, and not easy to work with (I'd suggest fresh air and VOC respirators) but it will seal in anything still living, including odors and stains
An oil sealer/primer might be OK< but the might part I wouldn't mess with
You don't want odors or stains to start bleeding through a week after you thought you were done
That would do it though...no worries

BUT-for sure I would really, really, check it out to make sure that it's not all moldy in the attic/basement or in the walls/floors etc.

If it's just on the surface, the process I described will work well

The fact that you would have to hire this out should be reflected in the price
The fact that you may want to DIY it should have no bearing on any price break due to this condition
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Old 02-12-2008, 05:06 PM   #7
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Mold issue aside, any Home Inspector with a side business relating to the home is unethical and should be reported to the proper agency.
Have the people who own the house get a mold inspection and get it cleaned up. Mold remediation can be a very expensive proposition. It can include removing walls, ceilings, kitchen and baths.
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Old 02-12-2008, 05:09 PM   #8
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Thanks guys. The home inspector said the attic was in excellent condition and the crawl space was in excellent condition but the humidity level was little high because it didn't have a moisture barrier on the ground. It is starting to get some wood fungus. That can be all taken care of with Timbur and a moisture barrier or $550 from a company that uses timbur.

I did try a test. I took some straight bleach and wiped an area and let dry. It all came off that area and looked great. Not sure if that says something but I thought I would mention it.

Thanks Slickshift for the detailed help. I appreciate it. I would prefer to DIY to make sure it is all done correctly. Do you think this would work better than the ozone shock for $500-$600? How much in supplies would this run? The house is small 800 sq feet. Thanks Again.
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Old 02-12-2008, 05:50 PM   #9
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Take your time and be cautious. Make sure that you procure the correct products to kill mold spores, if there are any....

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 02-12-2008 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 02-12-2008, 06:07 PM   #10
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procure the correct products to kill mold spores, if there are any....[/quote]


What does this mean that there aren't any that kill mold spores?
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Old 02-12-2008, 06:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twilightcall View Post
What does this mean that there aren't any that kill mold spores?
It means that I didn't read all the posts in the thread. I am just writing some points down, if that is, in fact mold.

If it is, you should do more research on mold. For example: Bleach doesn't kill all mold spores.

Some links:

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/en/family...hin+Limits.htm

http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/e...old/index.html

http://www.epa.gov/mold/moldguide.html

http://www.doh.wa.gov/ehp/ts/IAQ/Got_Mold.html
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Old 02-12-2008, 06:28 PM   #12
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You absolutely should have the mold tested by a qualified specialist. I did that with the house I was looking at and it turned out to be toxic mold that would cost quite a lot of money and time to remove. You just dont know what is in there until a lab tests it. If they tell you it isnt that bad and you can clean it up yourself then fine, but you need that peace of mind. PAy for a test, really. Dont fool around with mold until you KNOW what it is. Im not trying to scare you, just being realistic. There are plenty of houses out there. Dont assume it is harmless.
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Old 02-12-2008, 06:45 PM   #13
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I would guess that it is on the back side of the sheetrock too. Because it ha s been emty that long I would remove all sheetrock. Just my opinin.
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Old 02-12-2008, 07:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I would prefer to DIY to make sure it is all done correctly. Do you think this would work better than the ozone shock for $500-$600? How much in supplies would this run? The house is small 800 sq feet.
A true ozone shock or UV light treatment would not be a bad idea in addition, or rather before, the steps I mentioned
As it only treats the air, it is not complete in itself by any means
It is however, an easy thing to charge someone for as it's an extremely low labor procedure (drop off a machine, plug it in, pick it up in a few days)

It wouldn't be a bad idea, but as it's not a basement with airflow issues, but unless it's truly heinous in there, I would probably try w/o it and simply air out the house with window fans (one side facing in, one side of the house facing out) before attempting the mold fix

I'm not sure of the (retail) price of BIN, but you won't need much
4-6 gallons maybe
Could be more if the walls are really thirsty

Either the PW or the Bleach/Water won't be that much either
I can see it being around 300+/- total
I'd get a good respirator
And the thing is, you'd still have to do it (clean and seal) if you shocked/UVed it anyway
It would just be less smelly and have no airborne spores
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:47 AM   #15
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Is this drywall or plaster?

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