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Old 01-29-2012, 06:14 AM   #1
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how-to-fix-squeaky-floors?


Does this actually work and is it practical?

Link: http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Pr...-By-Step#step6

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Old 01-29-2012, 06:33 AM   #2
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Yes----Maybe---

If the floor is a modern install over a 3/4" subfloor you can be successful --use gold screws---square drive if you can find them---black drywall screws are brittle and the heads will break off---

If your floor is a 1960s or earlier install over 1x4 sleepers---forget it---here's why:
You may find the electrician ran the conduit under the oak strip----your screws could hit them.

Finding the furring strips from the basement is not going to happen and screwing in the open areas is not going to work for you--

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Old 01-29-2012, 06:41 AM   #3
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I have used this system for years and even before it was featured on This Old House. It is just for carpeted floors though.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/vide...045284,00.html

Unfortunately, few of my projects had carpeting.
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:58 AM   #4
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This is what it looks like above

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and below all throughout basement utility room. No blocking everywhere though. My plan was to use screws through to lessen the squeaking.

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Can I use the wood glue between the joists and subfloor as well? Overkill?
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:17 AM   #5
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I think glue would be overkill but others may disagree. Make sure you have a sharp countersink for the screws you have to put through the hardwood and matching wood putty. Put the screws in at a SLIGHT angle.
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:20 AM   #6
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That's an old install---are there sleepers between the skip sheeting (subfloor) and the oak strips?

Find a crack or an open knot hole and see if there is a 3/4" space---Lift up a heating vent if you have them--
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:53 AM   #7
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I tried to measure the floors through a small hole.

I got between 2-5/8" and 2-3/4".

Therefore I should use screw 0.5" less than that, correct? I'm thinking 2" gold nails or a tad bit longer.

Thoughts?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdsester
I think glue would be overkill but others may disagree. Make sure you have a sharp countersink for the screws you have to put through the hardwood and matching wood putty. Put the screws in at a SLIGHT angle.
Why do I need wood putty? I'm not going through the top. Counter sink?
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:09 AM   #9
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You have a sandwich---1x6 skip sheeting (subfloor)--sleepers---then the oak---

You will be taking a risk of hitting electrical in that sandwich---If you choose to run a couple hundred screws up from below--you might hit something expensive---Just warning you.

Exactly how old is that part of the house? 1940 through 1965 was the period that most commonly had electrical on top of the subfloor sandwiched between the top flooring---

Just warning you---
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike
You have a sandwich---1x6 skip sheeting (subfloor)--sleepers---then the oak---

You will be taking a risk of hitting electrical in that sandwich---If you choose to run a couple hundred screws up from below--you might hit something expensive---Just warning you.

Exactly how old is that part of the house? 1940 through 1965 was the period that most commonly had electrical on top of the subfloor sandwiched between the top flooring---

Just warning you---
My electrical in that area isn't sandwiched. I just double checked and all the electrical is ran along or through the joists and subfloor where it is used. Attached are some pictures.

Also, I found where the closet is located in one bedroom and drilled a 3" screw through the floor. Didn't care that it went through since it is in the corner of a closet. No one will notice. Attached is a picture. It looks like it comes almost a half inch through the floor.

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So I guess 2" screws will be just fine? Or a tab bit over 2"? I think I may go for the latter depending on what home depots has in stock.

Since I'm going through the bottom I just have to use gold screws, correct? No pilots or anything? My will make this a very quick job.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:49 AM   #11
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I'd try it without a pilot hole---that adds a lot of time---the reason for the pilot hole is to eliminate the possibility of the screw lifting the oak as it get a 'bite' into the harder wood---

I doubt if that will occur---have someone upstairs watching when you start---of the flooring lifts and is not sucked back down as you set the screw--then drill pilots---

If no lifting just go for it----I never had a problem without pilot holes----
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:50 AM   #12
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The section of the house is newer than the rest of it. The main part was built in 1880. Don't know when the addition was put on but you can see the transition to that portion of the house. Can also explain why there is extra thickness, maybe. :-)

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Old 01-29-2012, 09:32 AM   #13
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You should be safe----that 'new' section is still very old---you were a 'knob and tube' electric house at one time---not likely there is conduit under there---

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