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jammy54 08-03-2013 11:22 AM

How do I flash this.
I am repairing a rotted out entranceway for a front door where the rim joist, sheathing, tips of the floor joists, floor and subfloor, parts of the sill plate were all dry rotted out due to ice dam and water backing up. There is a brick stoop leading up to the door.

I have a good plan to replace all the framing members, but have a question about how to flash the corners of the bottom of the opening.

They used Tyvek, tar paper and aluminum flashing on the original door. They ran it down to 4" below the foundation, but that was easy because the stoop wasn't there!!

Now, for most of the length of the rim joist, I have been able to remove the old flashing, and there is a good 1/2" gap between the framing and the stoop. But at the two ends, the gap seems to have been filled with mortar and it is in a very awkward position to get to. I have tried a stone chisel and Sawzall with mortar blade, but the angle and space make it very hard to access. I am planning to use butyl wrap all around the door opening and I hate to jerry rig it in the corners as this is probably the most critical point.

Please see pictures here.

So what should I do?

a) Stop flashing at mortar and just putty like crazy?
b) Try like heck to dig the mortar out so I can flash behind the entire stoop?
c) Take one brick off each end of the stoop so I can reach between stoop and house, and then remortar the two bricks back?

Advice appreciated!

wkearney99 08-03-2013 12:16 PM

Take out the 1st row of bricks, finish the wall properly and put the bricks back in later.

I'd wonder if this might be an opportunity to consider using some slabs of stone to build out this entrance. That way you'd have some solid surfaces there to help prevent water problems. Finish the wall, put one slab down across the front then put another on top of it as the threshold for the doorway. Might even work to have the lower piece take the place of the whole brick course.

Remember, doing this right with proper materials now will absolutely cost less than repairing water damage later...

Nice job with the picutures, btw.

jammy54 08-03-2013 08:14 PM

Wow! That's a bit radical, although I agree that it would give me the room to work. But my wife is opposed to me expanding the project into yet another technology. :)

I bought a flat masonry chisel and will try to see if I can knock it out tomorrow. Wish me luck!

wkearney99 08-04-2013 07:12 AM

Opposed enough to run the risk of water wrecking everything you've already done, and possible more stuff below? This isn't another technology. It's potentially as simple as just ordering up some stones cut to the needed dimensions.

Run the numbers on what the stone would cost. Weigh that against several factors. One being the short-term reduction in time and effort to close up the wall. The other being the long-term benefits of preventing water intrusion and the resulting damage.

Otherwise if you just cut back some bricks you'll be forever stuck with the look of mis-matched mortar where you had to re-set the whole row of bricks you will have to remove. You're not going to get away with just the ends. You'd really need to do the whole course in order to make sure that whole length of opening is properly enclosed, all the way down below the soil level. Otherwise you introduce the potential for insects getting in there as well.

roger_ 08-04-2013 11:07 PM

I can't see in the photos what is above that door or how far out that stoop goes. But shouldnt you be addressing the problem of water, snow and ice from getting up against the door again? The problem you have there wasn't caused by a onetime snow fall.

If you don't fix that, then no matter what you do to waterproof and flash that area, if water is sitting up against the doorway, then it's going to be a problem again.

Maybe there needs to be a proper porch built over the doorway?

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