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Old 09-23-2012, 07:31 PM   #16
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Any blade backwards will do it, even the one that won’t cut wood anymore.


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Old 09-23-2012, 11:41 PM   #17
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As noted above...put the blade on works just fine.....I did it with a 40 tooth carbide blade....not teeth lost.
Even if you are on the right track, you will still get run over if you just sit there.

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Old 09-24-2012, 07:57 AM   #18
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I'd have to think you'd still get vibration cracking and/or chipping, especially in colder weather, using a saw.
Aviation shears or tin snips will not have this problem. Cheaper than a saw too if the OP does not own one.

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Old 09-24-2012, 09:42 AM   #19
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So, has anybody mentioned using a thin, cheap, fine tooth, plywood blade mounted backwards?
Dremel tool with appropriate cut off wheel.
Fine backsaw, hacksaw, or even coping saw with wide blade in miter box.
2X4 or other block inside gutter for suppert, using hand saws or even backwards blade skillsaw , set for shallow cut.

Snips, long bladed, off set, compound (aviation) snips, straight not left or right, which will cut straight but are made to cut curves. Double cut, or nibbler type give some suppert, bend or break the thin plastic less, you loose almost 1/4" of gutter tho.

I think those left and right aviation snips are what are causing that lost inch, One Eyed White Wonder. They have that extra lift to curl metal out of way when turning snips to follow curve. Cutting straight across a flat sheet with them is not a prob. Waste side just lifts, but stiff box shape of gutter does not curl or lift, have to cut reliefs in to cut line at corners and ogee.

Plastic gutters are not my first choice, but I would not say they "suck." They can be easier to install for DIYer, less tendency for long pieces to bend and get a permanent kink in wide back wall. Properly installed plastic certainly better than improperly installed metal. Plastic is a bit cheaper.You don't want to lean a ladder against any gutter. Larger sizes are available if you look. Plastic does not rust or oxidize. easier to touch up paint, than galvanized, rusted, or oxidized aluminum. Long runs of "seamless" metal need an expansion joint, which is a seam and is basically the same as slip connecto rs used on plastic. The hangers are no uglier than some metal ones, there are hidden interior mounts, some of which allow for thermal expansion, and are "slippier" than similar metal ones. Logically compare advantages/ disadvantages of plastic vs metal, and make your choice.

I recently revisited an addition I built 25+ years ago, owner wanted cheapest plastic gutters back then, still in great shape.


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Look at the nail, not the hammer. Watch the fence, not the blade.
If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.
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