I'm building a deck and I want to attach two beams that meet at a 45 degree angle to the top of a 4x4 post. Is there hardware that can accomplish this? Thanks,
Why don't you cut the top of the posts and the beams at 22.5 degrees and then they'll meet properly? There's probably some hardware that can accomplish something too.
Why don't you cut the top of the posts and the beams at 22.5 degrees and then they'll meet properly? There's probably some hardware that can accomplish something too.
Beams SITTING ON a post is a weak connection in most cases. What size are the beams? If they are 2x dimension lumber, you can use a circular saw and a hand saw to cut out 1-1/2" of the 4x4 on two faces, which will give the beams actual bearing, plus a little lateral support to the side of the post. The post can be extended up to just the top of the joists, or can be extended up three feet to be integrated into the deck's guard rail.
I would caution you in making a 45 degree cut to miter the ends of the beams together. Depending on the beam's width and how they land on the 4x4, there is a chance that cutting them that way will not provide adequate bearing surface.
I had a similar problem but was using 6x12 beams over 6x6 posts. I went down to my local lumberyard and had the salesman get a quote from Simpson for a special order connector, two saddles welded together at a 135 degree angle, comparable to their CCQ66, hot dip galvanized. They wanted $1,650 for fabricating three of them! Another manufacturer was willing to do them for $1,050. If you don’t need hot dip galvanized I’m guessing they would be no more than half the cost, and cheaper still if you are using 4x material. The connectors look and feel strong. I figured I needed them since the deck was 12’ high and I am on the California coast in earthquake country.
I'm building a deck and I want to attach two beams that meet at a 45 degree angle to the top of a 4x4 post. Is there hardware that can accomplish this?
Simpson ECCQ post cap - take a grinder and cut away half of one of the upright wings.
Position beams in cap and screw together with FastenMaster LedgerLock screws as well as running the Simpson SDS screws through all remaining holes in metal hardware.
I'd strongly suggest upgrading to a 6x6 post for increased bearing area.
Yes you got a nice strong setup there...Well made clips to tight it all together...Very nice quality wood you have...Wish we could get that here in Nova Scotia...Good pictures too...
Leroy; Yes you are. Call your local lumberyard and ask if Simpson makes a 45 bracket. If they dont know call Simpson, might be in a box in a back corner since it is not that common.
Yes that should work very well...Do use washers with your bolts ...I would put some type sealer on the wood parts of the post you cut before you set in your 2x8's...Just a thought...
Hoping that Mr. Jenkins will be able to charge into the room with some ideas even after 12 years. Your picture answered one big question I have. Now I know how it should look. Got any advice about technique for notching a 6x6 post thusly?
I believe I used a reciprocating saw. I think I also needed to clean it up with a hammer and chisel. I recall it being easier than I expected it to be.
Yeah, I was having trouble figuring how to get the angle right with a circular saw or to cut deep enough with a jigsaw. Looks like I get to buy new tool! Many thanks.
Whatever brand of recip saw you buy, buy some premium blades. They will make all the difference in making straight cuts. I like Milwaukee and Lenox. But I've heard good things about Bosch, too.
The blades that came with my first recip saw, a Ryobi, were terrible.
Th cuts on the ends of the 2x beams can be made easily and accurately with a miter saw or circular saw. Recip saw is probably the best option for notching the post. Although, you can start the cuts with a circular saw, or if the post isn't set, you can make most of the cut on a table saw or miter saw.
If I were to use the recip saw to make the cuts, would it make sense to first secure the post to the footer so that it's held in place while I saw? Seems like that would do well to handle the vertical cuts but not the horizonal ones, which I suppose I could start with a circular saw (I don't have a table saw).
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