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Old 05-29-2013, 11:09 PM   #1
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Hot Mop Update


This is an update to my thread about Hot Mop....rather than make everyone read through all the posts...I figured it would be easier to summarize here.

I had a guy out today who specializes in hot mop. He came recommended...and I can understand why. The guy took the time to explain the process...why and what happens afterwards. I've done a lot of research into hot mop....but they never tell you what is 'next'....

So....here is the Cliff Notes version....

1. Frame in shower area.

2. Install blocking. Hot mop requires blocking between studs to about 10 above the floor. In my one case where my drain pipes were too close to the wall...I use 18g galv sheet metal.

3. Hot mop guy comes in...he creates the mortar bed and sets the drain. He then lays down multiple layers of tar paper and hot tar. When he is done I have a shower pan that is about 1/4" thick.

4. He cleans up and then fills the shower pan with water for the water test.

5. I have the inspector come out the next day for the inspection. If done right...approved.

6. Now I install the walls. I have a couple of choices....he suggested 1/4" green board...it will pretty much match up to the hot mop....then on top of that Hardi Backer or cement board. The green board butts up against the edge of the hot mop...but the hardi/cement overlaps the hot mop about 2".

7. I now have about 1/4" of cement board or hardi on the top part of the hot mop....can't tile that....

8. Cement float time...on top of the hot mop I need to install a layer of mortar. This will include metal screen.

9. Once the mortar is done I 'should' have a good surface that tile can be attached to.

Funny thing....I never came across any web sites that describe the above in detail. I'll keep looking....

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Old 05-30-2013, 05:01 AM   #2
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Hot Mop Update


Why use a gypsum product behind the backer board? If moisture ever reaches it --it can become soft and fail---

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Old 05-30-2013, 05:31 AM   #3
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Hot Mop Update


Hot tar? Is that going to smell like regular tar? Man, that is one smell I do not like. How much are you going to save with the hot tar?
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:09 AM   #4
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Why use a gypsum product behind the backer board? If moisture ever reaches it --it can become soft and fail---
The hot mop guy actually suggested green board...layer of 15lb felt...then hardi...the purpose of the green board was to fur the wall out even with the hot mop.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:11 AM   #5
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Hot tar? Is that going to smell like regular tar? Man, that is one smell I do not like. How much are you going to save with the hot tar?
Both showers (very large showers and odd shaped)....$500....total...including the mortar base.

It would cost me that much just for one shower if I used Kerdi....

BTW....he did not have much good to say about Redguard
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:17 PM   #6
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I would used something other than Gyp board for furring--Redguard is for walls only in my experience---good for walls, but I trust Hydroban for critical areas like seats and niches----and have used it for pans on grade.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:10 PM   #7
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Hot Mop Update


You are saving $500 plus or minus but is it really worth it? You're going to have a lot more work to do yourself compared to using Kerdi. The extra work combined with a slightly increased risk of leakage as you stated would certainly make me change to a different system.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:13 PM   #8
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You are saving $500 plus or minus but is it really worth it? You're going to have a lot more work to do yourself compared to using Kerdi. The extra work combined with a slightly increased risk of leakage as you stated would certainly make me change to a different system.
What more work do I have?

What is the 'slightly increased risk of leakage'?

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