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-   -   Getting ready to begin finishing basement.Tips? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/getting-ready-begin-finishing-basement-tips-108861/)

Bahuffma 06-26-2011 06:10 PM

Getting ready to begin finishing basement.Tips?
 
I am getting ready to start finishing the basement in our home and know that i will have many questions along the way. Also, I would appreciate any tips/advice. The basement is 1200 sq ft, with a concrete floor and concrete block walls.

I figure that I would start with framing the walls, but had a few questions. On the outside walls (against the block) would 24" spacing be ok, or should i just go with 16" o.c.? I will also be framing in a half bath that is already tied into the septic system. Would I just secure the framed walls to the concrete floor and floor joists of 1st level? Also, should I do the walls or floor first?

Regarding the floor, I am still debating on what to do. After some research it appears that hardwoods are just not a good idea for a basement. I completely understand why, but would love to be able to put down some engineered hardwoods. If I choose to go this route, what is best to put under the floor? vapor barrier and subfloor? dricore (or similiar)? It seems that there is a lot of debate about putting down a vapor barrier (plastic). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks

Just Bill 06-27-2011 06:13 AM

Framing: There is a 2" thick rigid faom board well suited for insulating outside walls as well as providing means to hang drywall or wall covering. It is notched for furring strips. Secure the furring strips, clamping the insulation in place with tapcons into the block. This is also the means for hanging drywall. The end result, moisture barrier, insulation, all in one.

The flooring type may depend on how dry the floor is. Place a piece of plastic(about 16" square) or aluminum foil on the concrete, seal the edges with tape. Pull it up after a couple of days. Wet?? You have hydrostatic pressure and can't install a floor without taking steps to cover it, dricor or similar. Damp, limits the flooring types. Dry-no problems, use whatever you want, follow manufacturers directions for below grade installations.

Ron6519 06-27-2011 01:59 PM

Post your location so we know where your are.

Bahuffma 06-27-2011 03:45 PM

Thanks for the response..How does the rigid foam work with running electrical/plumbing etc.? There already a number of receptacles around the walls.

Also, I am in North Carolina.

Ron6519 06-27-2011 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bahuffma (Post 675272)
Thanks for the response..How does the rigid foam work with running electrical/plumbing etc.? There already a number of receptacles around the walls.

Also, I am in North Carolina.

If the outlets are on the concrete, you'll remove them and attach the boxes to the studs.
Before you get too far ahead of yourself, find out what inspections are needed and when.

Bahuffma 06-27-2011 05:09 PM

Yeah, I didn't really consider findiing out what inspections are needed before the studs go up, but that's a really good point! Thanks

Also, what is your thoughts on the stud spacing on the block wall? 16? 24?

Thanks again

Ron6519 06-27-2011 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bahuffma (Post 675322)
Yeah, I didn't really consider findiing out what inspections are needed before the studs go up, but that's a really good point! Thanks

Also, what is your thoughts on the stud spacing on the block wall? 16? 24?

Thanks again

If you can frame at 24"(code wise), you'll need 5/8" sheetrock to span the distance.
I'd contact the local building dept to see if you need plans for this before a permit is produced(if they require it in your locale).

Gary in WA 06-27-2011 08:06 PM

Here are some guide-lines for the drywall, as Ron said if 24" on center, the 1/2" upgrades to 5/8" on the ceiling only, if applying a water-based texture--- footnote "d": http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par010.htm

Gary

Ron6519 06-27-2011 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 675461)
Here are some guide-lines for the drywall, as Ron said if 24" on center, the 1/2" upgrades to 5/8" on the ceiling only, if applying a water-based texture--- footnote "d": http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par010.htm

Gary

I'd use the 5/8" on the walls also. The thicker material takes more of a shot then the 1/2" and the 24" framing is less support.
Sometimes it isn't about the code, sometimes it's just a choice.


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