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Old 11-28-2006, 08:13 PM   #16
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Garage door won't go down easily


Sounds like you solved your problem. Guess it was best just getting the new one, huh?

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Old 11-28-2006, 08:20 PM   #17
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Garage door won't go down easily


Sounds like the bent shaft was causing too much resistance and activating the safety.
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:39 AM   #18
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Garage door won't go down easily


Hey guys.....new here......similar problem but im in the south....n.al. I have a early 2000 model 1/2 hp craftsman. Door does same thing. Jerks when closing and gets about halfway and goes back up. I have replaced both sensors and lubed everything. Adjusted down force. Door and trolley operates smoothly with door disconnected. Now when it hits the ground it pushes too far and makes door go back up when you can actually get it to close without having to help it close by hand...im on a really tight budget and need some good advice...thanks in advance!! Side note last night I had adjusted the down force and it closed properly without help...this morn it closed without help but when it hit full close it pushed too far and made it come back up.

Last edited by hozII; 08-25-2011 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:02 AM   #19
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Garage door won't go down easily


Adjusting the force limit adjusting knob can help the opener push the door past minor catching, anything major would need to be corrected or the door can be damaged and the repeated jamming can wipe out the plastic gears inside the opener. Remember the opener pushes from the center of the top panel, you are probably pulling the door from the bottom panel which can cause some problems to disappear when you operate the door by hand. If you don't see obvious signs of the door catching on the way down, next look at the sensors. It takes very little to affect these, cobwebs on the door, a leaf stuck in the cobwebs or sometimes even sunlight shining into one of the eyes can cause intermittent problems at a certain time of year.

There are travel limit screws on the side of the opener to adjust how far it closes or how far it opens. These have a door icon with an up and down arrow and you need a smaller flat screwdriver to make changes. If the door is closing too far you need to adjust the close limit, back it off about a half to one full turn then try closing the door. You may need to make a couple adjustments to get it just right.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:31 PM   #20
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Garage door won't go down easily


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Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
Adjusting the force limit adjusting knob can help the opener push the door past minor catching, anything major would need to be corrected or the door can be damaged and the repeated jamming can wipe out the plastic gears inside the opener. Remember the opener pushes from the center of the top panel, you are probably pulling the door from the bottom panel which can cause some problems to disappear when you operate the door by hand. If you don't see obvious signs of the door catching on the way down, next look at the sensors. It takes very little to affect these, cobwebs on the door, a leaf stuck in the cobwebs or sometimes even sunlight shining into one of the eyes can cause intermittent problems at a certain time of year.

There are travel limit screws on the side of the opener to adjust how far it closes or how far it opens. These have a door icon with an up and down arrow and you need a smaller flat screwdriver to make changes. If the door is closing too far you need to adjust the close limit, back it off about a half to one full turn then try closing the door. You may need to make a couple adjustments to get it just right.
Yeah im Goin to go back and back the down force off a lil, but yes sensors have been replaced all new and clean, everything lubed, both door and trolley operates smoothly disconnected, Just can't figure out why it jerks so bad on the way down to make it come back up. This is so frustrating and im sure its something so simple but complicated to figure out......lol

Last edited by hozII; 08-25-2011 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:25 PM   #21
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Garage door won't go down easily


Alright went out tonight and played with it.....everything was set back to original force settings.....now with door off trolly,the trolls goes all the way to the end and goes to far and come back on its own so idk what the heck is up with it!
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:59 PM   #22
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Garage door won't go down easily


Inside the opener unit you have a plastic gear set, a worm gear on the motor shaft which drives a larger plastic gear on main shaft that drives the chain sprocket. Normally it is only the larger gear that fails, when this happens it allows the door to become out of sync with the limit switches.

If you are handy the repair is not difficult and the parts are about $8 for the gear at amazon. If the worm gear or the upper sprocket shaft and bearing is damaged the whole kit is around $20. This is the most common and really about the only problem with this style opener. I have seen these gears last 15-20 years or be completely stripped in a few weeks if the door is improperly adjusted or catching.

You can confirm this problem by disconnecting the power and removing the cover from the opener. If you see many white shavings then locate the large white gear, chances are the teeth are worn almost completely off.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:23 PM   #23
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Garage door won't go down easily


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Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
Inside the opener unit you have a plastic gear set, a worm gear on the motor shaft which drives a larger plastic gear on main shaft that drives the chain sprocket. Normally it is only the larger gear that fails, when this happens it allows the door to become out of sync with the limit switches.

If you are handy the repair is not difficult and the parts are about $8 for the gear at amazon. If the worm gear or the upper sprocket shaft and bearing is damaged the whole kit is around $20. This is the most common and really about the only problem with this style opener. I have seen these gears last 15-20 years or be completely stripped in a few weeks if the door is improperly adjusted or catching.

You can confirm this problem by disconnecting the power and removing the cover from the opener. If you see many white shavings then locate the large white gear, chances are the teeth are worn almost completely off.

Great info! That makes sense, since it is not at all working with the limit switches....played with it some more before I read this and not it stops, starts all over the place now.....lol gonna pull cover off and im sure that's the culprit, have a look see if its just the gear or shaft and all......thanks a ton! $10-$30 is a whole lot better than $200+ for a new opener!
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:39 PM   #24
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Garage door won't go down easily


Alright, finally got it down took it apart everything looks good.....put everything back ,door worked fine up and down with no jerking now? On third fourth cycle it started messing up again....I adjusted down force worked great third or fourth cycle it messed up again.......almost like I turned the down force to 0....I can play with the force adjustment and it will work fine for a few cycles then mess up again......could this be the set limiter sensor in the opener going out?
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:11 PM   #25
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Garage door won't go down easily


Does the door start jerking again when the opener is messing up?
Does the door work smoothly when disconnected and operated by hand?
Does the opener cycle up and down smoothly with the door disconnected?

Trying to figure out if the door is actually catching on the jamb or track to cause this jerking, which in turn causes the opener to exceed the force limit and reverse. Or if a problem in the opener is intermittently happening to cause the door to jerk enough to exceed the limit and send it open. Something like maybe a loose connection or broken wire causing the motor to start and stop suddenly.
It's very hard to diagnose something like this without seeing it operate!

The force limit adjustment is actually a part of the main control board in the opener and a new board costs nearly as much as a basic opener. Rather than experiment with parts it could quickly become cheaper to just replace it.
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:25 PM   #26
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Garage door won't go down easily


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Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
Does the door start jerking again when the opener is messing up?
Does the door work smoothly when disconnected and operated by hand?
Does the opener cycle up and down smoothly with the door disconnected?

Trying to figure out if the door is actually catching on the jamb or track to cause this jerking, which in turn causes the opener to exceed the force limit and reverse. Or if a problem in the opener is intermittently happening to cause the door to jerk enough to exceed the limit and send it open. Something like maybe a loose connection or broken wire causing the motor to start and stop suddenly.
It's very hard to diagnose something like this without seeing it operate!

The force limit adjustment is actually a part of the main control board in the opener and a new board costs nearly as much as a basic opener. Rather than experiment with parts it could quickly become cheaper to just replace it.
Yes door and trolley works smoothly disconn. Was jerking before when closing but now it doesn't. After I took motor unit down and put everything back together, worked fine for a few cycles but then it was stopping on opening and closing all over the place.....as in, it wouldn't open but half way or 3/4 or close too far then make itself come back up. Then it would work fine again after I would turn the down force all the way back down then back up again.....I can get a vid of it and post it...you guys support photobucket here?
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:06 PM   #27
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Garage door won't go down easily


I don't know much about photobucket, but if they support video you should be able to link it to here.

Opening and closing too far is very strange, because the travel limit switches are completely independent of the force knobs. Turning the force knob should not do anything to change how far the door travels.

If the stopping points are changing, then something is definitely wrong. The door position is directly linked to the limit switches, every time the motor runs the limit switch travels one way or the other the exact proportionate amount because it is gear driven. The only way the travel limits can change is if something is slipping, allowing the door position to advance without moving the limit switch. Usually the cause is the plastic gears. Other than that, the chain, chain drive sprocket, or something in the limit switch drive gears or drive screw.

I have been assuming this opener is chain drive is that correct? Not much chance of the chain slipping, it pretty much works or falls off.

If it is belt drive your belt could be missing some teeth and slipping over the drive sprocket, or the drive sprocket could be slipping on the shaft. I have not had much trouble with either but have heard of an occasional problem.

Something has to be slipping and allowing the door position to get out of sync with the limit switch. Occasionally it may slip back close to correct position for a few cycles until it does it again.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:39 PM   #28
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Garage door won't go down easily


Quote:
Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
I don't know much about photobucket, but if they support video you should be able to link it to here.

Opening and closing too far is very strange, because the travel limit switches are completely independent of the force knobs. Turning the force knob should not do anything to change how far the door travels.

If the stopping points are changing, then something is definitely wrong. The door position is directly linked to the limit switches, every time the motor runs the limit switch travels one way or the other the exact proportionate amount because it is gear driven. The only way the travel limits can change is if something is slipping, allowing the door position to advance without moving the limit switch. Usually the cause is the plastic gears. Other than that, the chain, chain drive sprocket, or something in the limit switch drive gears or drive screw.

I have been assuming this opener is chain drive is that correct? Not much chance of the chain slipping, it pretty much works or falls off.

If it is belt drive your belt could be missing some teeth and slipping over the drive sprocket, or the drive sprocket could be slipping on the shaft. I have not had much trouble with either but have heard of an occasional problem.

Something has to be slipping and allowing the door position to get out of sync with the limit switch. Occasionally it may slip back close to correct position for a few cycles until it does it again.
Yeah its chain driven....its really weird.....sometimes it closes and opens fine....other its all over the place....I pulled it down and all the gears looked good and still lubed. Chain has a little slack in hangs about a 1/4" or less below tract....but has good tension on it...i'll get a vid posted of it tomm. While im off and get it posted...and side note sorry to OP for the thread jack.......lol
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:19 PM   #29
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Garage door won't go down easily


Hello - Read all the post and I am still have problems. Was hoping that someone could help me out. (sorry for the length of post, just trying to be detailed on problem and what I have done up to now)

Here's what I have:
2009 Genie Screw Shaft opener on a 11 yr old, two car albumin garage door.

Problems:
-Door was jerking/jumping real bad when it got about 10" from closing. 50% of the time, the door would go back up. Only have problems when closing. Is not the sensors and believe that the travel limit switches are set correctly.

What has been done up-to now:
-I have cleaned all tracks
-Replaced all rollers with new Nylon rollers
-Replaces all broken or loose door hinges. (there was one broken and 1 loose, both replaced)
-Have tested door by unlatching and seeing if the door will balance while halfway up. It does balance and seems to go up and down without issue except, when going down, there seems to be a slight hitch/stopping spot just about 10" off the ground. (while moving the door up and down by hand-unlatched) I have tried to see what causes the slight hitch/stopping point without any luck. The door will close, but requires more presser right before getting 100% down.

Other things that I have checked:
-Cable drum looks good on both sides.
-Cable spools properly on both sides and appears to be the same length and same tension when down. Both look in sync when down and up position.
-Tension bar appears to be straight

Things that I don't know if they could cause this problem:
-Bearings in the faceplate on both sides? (I have sprayed WD-40 into the bearing area. Seen this on a different site that said it might help?)
-Torsion Spring? When the door is down, the spring looks like it has a little bow to it, meaning it looks like it has a slight sag in the middle. It is not broken and the door still goes up without an issue and is balanced when unlatched, so I don't think it is the Torsion Spring.

So there are the details. I watch the door up close from the inside and the outside and am still left scratching my head on whats going on. All is fine expect just before it get closed, when it wants to jerk around and sometimes goes back up because it thinks something is there or it requires too much force.

Please send help before I buy all the wrong parts.

Thanks much,
Rick
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:22 PM   #30
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Garage door won't go down easily


Quote:
Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
Inside the opener unit you have a plastic gear set, a worm gear on the motor shaft which drives a larger plastic gear on main shaft that drives the chain sprocket. Normally it is only the larger gear that fails, when this happens it allows the door to become out of sync with the limit switches.
..........
You can confirm this problem by disconnecting the power and removing the cover from the opener. If you see many white shavings then locate the large white gear, chances are the teeth are worn almost completely off.

Ditto iamrfixit, this is just what happened to my door opener. It was at least 15 yrs old (came with the house). I put in the repair kit about 4 yrs ago and it still works great.

Luckily, my door has the old coil springs. But, one of them gave out one day and shot across the garage at amazing speed. Not as dangerous as the torsion springs - but I still wouldn't want one coming my way

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