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Garage Door Openers: Belt or Chain

13K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  Know It ALL 
#1 ·
I am getting ready to do some work on my garage doors.

I have 15+ year old Sears 1/2 HP chain garage door openers. The doors are in decent shape, the tracks stay greased. I may replace some rollers. The big challenge is the openers.

Questions:
1. Belt vs Chain, what is better?
2. Can I rewire whatever drive purchased to the mounted openers on the wall? OR should I replace them as well?
3. How hard to install seperate key pad (I have an old one that came with the house but do not know the code).
4. How do I determine an appropriate amount of slack on the chain? They look a little "loose" right now.

Thanks :thumbsup:
 
#2 ·
1. I prefer a belt, less vibration, less noise.
2. Use the wire but replace the controls.
3. The new ones are wireless. Just two screws, no problems if you change the batt one a year.
4. The chain should be not touch the rail. Adjust it so it is 1/8" or so off the rail when at rest.
 
#4 ·
Ditto on the belts.
One other thing though, there is absolutely no reason to grease the tracks. I don't know who started that years ago, but every other old door I replace has greasy tracks. All this does is attract dirt and make a mess. Buy steel rollers with ball bearing and once a year shoot a little white lithium grease on the ball bearings, that's it. Greasing the tracks is kind of like greasing the roads, it just doesn't make sense.
If you want a nice belt drive, check out the liftmaster 3580, very quiet.
Mike Hawkins:)
 
#6 ·
THANKS for the info.

I have been looking into the openers and have a question ....

Am I correct in thinking that CHAMBERLAIN openers are made by the same company as LIFTMASTER?

They look similar and the ads describe things in a similar manner.
 
#14 ·
#12 ·
If the door is properly sprung, you should be able to lift it easily with one hand. That 1/3 hp could lift a 16 x 7 door, but I never hang the smaller openers. Everything I use is either 1/2 or 3/4 hp. Around here I can't tell you how many screw drives I have taken down that were still working because they are so noisy. Sure you can grease the screw and it quiets down for a little while, until it dumps a blob of grease on top of your car. I also like installing openers with internal limit controls over the flipper switches on the rails. Also, I have never seen a belt break on one. Not to say that it couldn't happen, but very unlikely.
Mike Hawkins:)

What is the door size that a 1/3 hp can lift up to ,non-insulated?
 
#13 ·
info

-thanks
I already have one so i will try it out1/3 hp..I wont be opening it daily since it is detatched so it will not be used as often.I hope it will handle the 16' steel door ok (non insulated)...any info is appreciated.

I was going to install the torsion spring till i saw it could kill ya...lol
 
#16 ·
I am getting ready to do some work on my garage doors.

I have 15+ year old Sears 1/2 HP chain garage door openers. The doors are in decent shape, the tracks stay greased. I may replace some rollers. The big challenge is the openers.

Questions:
1. Belt vs Chain, what is better?
2. Can I rewire whatever drive purchased to the mounted openers on the wall? OR should I replace them as well?
3. How hard to install seperate key pad (I have an old one that came with the house but do not know the code).
4. How do I determine an appropriate amount of slack on the chain? They look a little "loose" right now.

Thanks :thumbsup:
1. Personal choice, though belts are quieter
2. Install the controllers that came with the door
3. New openers usually come with a wireless keypad. If not, they can be purchased sepately.
4. The chain adjustment is specified in the instructions.
Greasing the track has no function. The newer plastic wheels have no lubrication needs as there are no bearings.
Ron
Ron
 
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