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Old 02-05-2011, 11:15 PM   #16
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Exterior door problems


Try adding two more longer (2") screws to fill all the holes on the jamb side of the top hinge before pulling the casing..... HD sells longer hinge screws in bronze, brass, etc. just for sagging doors. If that doesn't work, take another picture of the top hinge (3' away) after pulling the casing.

Gary

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Old 02-05-2011, 11:40 PM   #17
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I just replaced some interior hinges and the new ones came with one long screw each. Will have enough to do both doors. Will put those in tomorrow. If that does the trick I'll post here. If not, I'll post picture of the hinge with casing off on Tuesday. Thanks, GBR.
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:49 AM   #18
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Exterior door problems


Hmmm, are you stating that the house is 15-17 years old? Within the last six months I have replaced one front door on a newer home, and two back doors on homes about this age and found NO shims at all. NONE. These doors were just set in, nailed to the rough framing, and interior trim put on. Once the interior trim was removed, there was a nice gap between the door frame and RO. I'm just wondering if this would be your situation, and now the door frame has shifted. IF this is the case, then longer screws would tend to only pull the door jambs closer to the rough out framing. I'd say pull a piece of interior trim on the hinge side to inspect this.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:40 AM   #19
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The house was actually built in the 70's. The doors were put in right before I bought the house. Unfortunately, I only helped the guy redo all the interior doors when they put in new carpet.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:53 AM   #20
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ALL doors interior or exterior should at least one extra long screw that goes through the door jamb and into the framing.

I usually use a 3" GRK screw or an exterior galvanized drywall-type screw.

Try this before you go ripping stuff apart.
You'll be amazed at how much you can adjust a door with just long screws and using all three hinges to move the door one way or the other.

Make sure you have a driver/drill that can actually drive these big screws.
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Old 02-09-2011, 06:01 PM   #21
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Okay, put in long screws for top and middle hinges into the frame.

Front door--much better. No longer rubbing door on door frame.

Back door--if any improvement, not much. Deadbolt still not able to engage (bolt Opens too low on frame). Got my level out. Door is level and plum. Frame where hinges are is level. Top, bottom and right side are all off. Guessing the rotten wood under foot plate combined with gravity, hurricanes, weather changes etc knocked it out of whack.

So, recommendations for next step if y'all don't mind?

Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2011, 06:53 PM   #22
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Exterior door problems


If all your reveals are good and your weatherstripping is working and the door operates the way it should, then reposition the strike plate.

I've seen those screwed up from the factory............
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:26 PM   #23
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Okay. Was just worried about the large gap underneath the door. The new bottom weatherstrip should stop the major airflow; I just wasn't crazy about the gap.

Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:39 PM   #24
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Exterior door problems


Quote:
Originally Posted by dazoli View Post
Okay, put in long screws for top and middle hinges into the frame.

Front door--much better. No longer rubbing door on door frame.

Back door--if any improvement, not much. Deadbolt still not able to engage (bolt Opens too low on frame). Got my level out. Door is level and plum. Frame where hinges are is level. Top, bottom and right side are all off. Guessing the rotten wood under foot plate combined with gravity, hurricanes, weather changes etc knocked it out of whack.

So, recommendations for next step if y'all don't mind?

Thanks!
What you're doing to this door doesn't make sense to me. What you do to the door is...nothing. Absolutely nothing until you understand all the issues with the door. At this point you know nothing and are hoping by taking arbitrary suggestions you will somehow fix the issues. You won't. All you'll do is rack the door and trade one issue for another.
weather changes should not effect a properly installed door.
Gravity will not effect a properly installed door.
Rotted wood under the,"foot plate" will. If it's rotted, pull the door out and fix it.
If the side jambs aren't plumb, there's an issue.
If the head jamb and sill aren't level, there's an issue.
The picture shows the latch side jamb elevated(or the hinge side jamb dropped). That will keep the latches and bolts from lining up with the strike plates(so you can't lock the door).
I would suggest:
1 Pull the door out of the opening.
2. Replace any damaged flooring or subflooring.
3. Install a proper sill flashing and caulk it.
4. Install the door with proper shims along both the side jambs.
-behind each hinge and 6" from the top and bottom of the jamb
-Behind both the locks and 4 additional shims along the strike jamb
5. Screw one 3" screw into each hinge keeping the jamb plumb.
6. Check the reveal all around the door to make sure it's equal(1/8")
7. Secure the latch side jamb.
8. Check the doors operation and make sure the locks engage.
9. Insulate the gaps around the jamb.
10. Install the trim.

Or you can whack at it like a monkey at a termite mound and hope you get a bite.
Your call.
Ron
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:23 PM   #25
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Exterior door problems


As I stated in my first post: I Replaced the rotten wood weeks ago.

As far as being a monkey banging on a termite mound, well, guess they came running out because the front door issue was fixed perfectly by 2 longer screws in the top hinge to the frame (it only had 2 shorts screws).

I don't see why trying the longer screws assaulted your sense of DIY fixes so badly. Especially since it did fix the front door (opens and closes better than I ever remember).

I appreciate your instructions to get the frame on the backdoor done more professionally. I'll try not to monkey it up too badly.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:34 AM   #26
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And I quote:
"Deadbolt still not able to engage (bolt Opens too low on frame). Got my level out. Door is level and plum. Frame where hinges are is level. Top, bottom and right side are all off."

The door is conceptual. Either it all works or it doesn't. Having a door that opens and closes isn't as important as one which locks correctly.
The door is installed incorrectly. You won't fix it by your methodology.
Ron
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:50 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
You won't fix it by your methodology.
Sounds like he already did

It probably wasn't initially installed the way you and I would but that doesn't mean it has to be removed and reinstalled.

He listened to good advise and tweaked it just like I would if he hired me to fix it.

You sound like the guy that looks at any situation and classifies it as Junk!!! It's gotta be completely redone!! It's gonna cost ya $$$$$

Nice job Dazoli
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:26 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by tcleve4911 View Post
Sounds like he already did

It probably wasn't initially installed the way you and I would but that doesn't mean it has to be removed and reinstalled.

He listened to good advise and tweaked it just like I would if he hired me to fix it.

You sound like the guy that looks at any situation and classifies it as Junk!!! It's gotta be completely redone!! It's gonna cost ya $$$$$

Nice job Dazoli
I look at many situations with an overly critical eye.
You're right, I should relax a bit.
Ron
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:51 AM   #29
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Nice reply back, Ron

Take a ride out to Huntington and get yourself a coffee ring from Reinwald's Bakery.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:25 AM   #30
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Nice reply back, Ron

Take a ride out to Huntington and get yourself a coffee ring from Reinwald's Bakery.
Sadly Jim, Reinwalds closed it's doors a few years ago. I grew up going to the one in Queens Village.
Best chocolate cream donuts and powdered cruellars ever.
It was opened for over 50 years.
Ron

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