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Old 06-12-2011, 06:38 PM   #1
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Drywall Damage


The ceiling on our main floor has water damaged drywall. The drywall tape is starting to peel along that joint.
The leak that caused this has been fixed so now I'm wondering the best way to take care of this.

This area of the ceiling is below the 2nd story bathroom. I am in the progress of upgrading the bathroom. The joist span is borderline for a ceramic tile floor in the bathroom. There is linoleum there now but I would like tile.

If money wasn't an issue I suppose I would pull the ceiling drywall, reinforce the floor joists and try to match the orange peel paint effect onto the new drywall since it continues down a hallway without interruption.

But since money is a factor and I'm an inexperienced drywaller, would this damage be repairable without taking it all down?
Or should I just bite the bullet and pull it down, sister the joists and replace?
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:04 PM   #2
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If money's tight that drywall can be saved---You will need to block and prop it back up add screws and re tape that open joint.

Re doing the texture will be the challenge---I can't help with that----perhaps someone here can offer a suggestion.

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Old 06-12-2011, 07:05 PM   #3
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...is it dry yet?
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:10 PM   #4
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Why do you think the joists need to be reinforced or sistered?
If this leak was a one time episode and only the tape peeled, you might not develope a mold issue on top of the drywall. I've done dozens of ceiling repairs under bath leaks and have never seen mold with a short term leak.
If the only thing that happened was that the tape peeled and the ceiling discolored, you can just retape, texture and paint. Just use a stain killer primer over the discolored spots ot they will bleed through.
The texture will be the tricky part to match. It might pay to have someone come in to do it it your skill set isn't up to the task. If close is good enough, go at it.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:48 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies


oh Mike: I could have someone do the texture match for the spot or for whole ceiling. I just have to decide where to spend my available funds.

Quote:
...is it dry yet?
Yes Bud, the drywall is now dry. leak was repaired a while ago but how do you tell if it is really dry?

Quote:
Why do you think the joists need to be reinforced or sistered?
2x8's over 15' span 10" o.c. Douglas Fir #2.

you can read my thread about the joist span here"
Joist Span
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Old 06-15-2011, 08:48 PM   #6
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would appreciate opinions on the joist span

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Old 06-15-2011, 09:22 PM   #7
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Deflection is 266---your basic spring board---Sister them up if you can----That's a long span for a 2x8.--Mike---
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:48 PM   #8
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l/266 is useless to humans (lol, joking).

you are not even close.

go in the bathroom and jump right now, report back to us, but I will give you a hint:

1. The mirror shakes
2. the light fixture shakes
3. stuff falls in the bathtub
4. it feels like a trampoline.

when you jump, you need to land and feel a solid thud and no movement...then you are ready for tile.
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:28 AM   #9
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Everything except for stuff falling into the tub would be correct.
Did I mention the tub was pulled..... maybe not.
OK reinforcing it will be.
I guess the 1977 building code is also a joke.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:18 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by RalphPeters View Post
Everything except for stuff falling into the tub would be correct.
Did I mention the tub was pulled..... maybe not.
OK reinforcing it will be.
I guess the 1977 building code is also a joke.

well remember that codes/deflection tables are to prevent sagging past a certain point. generally structures dont fall down....they just sag a lot depending on the situation!

how many times can you find a story about a single toe nail holding up a second story (probably a mild exaggeration but not far off!)

nothing pisses me off more than a bouncy floor though.

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