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Old 02-06-2009, 09:03 AM   #91
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Anyone here do crown molding? Sorry! Didn't mean to scare anyone or give them a headache. But it's really not that hard, at all... once you understand a few basic concepts about the cuts.

But, that's another story....... and of course, you already suspect that I have a pretty clearly written explanation of it all that I may post one day.

Right now, I'm just passing on a small tip I got over on the Contractor's Forum. I haven't tried it, myself. But I did see a very good video one of the guys made, showing how he did it.

It involves an adaptation to the "coping" method.

Instead of coping off the backcut, he used an angle grinder with a 36 grit sanding wheel to quickly smooth out all the underside of the miter, very cleanly, even with the profile line.

If you do crown, you know what I mean. If you don't... consider learning how. It's a very rewarding thing to look up at a crown molding job you did yourself.

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Old 02-06-2009, 09:08 AM   #92
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While were on the topic of paint...which for all practical purposes I generally hate.

When cleaning your good brushes...add a cap full of Downy (no detergent) to your cleaning water. It really helps to remove the paint from the brush...and leaves the bristles clean and smooth...when the paint is all gone one final rinse with clear water and your done.
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Old 02-06-2009, 09:17 AM   #93
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Someone already touched on this, but I want to stress it.

Clean your latex brushes with water... that's fine, soap and whatever.

But never clean your good oil brushes with anything but the paint solvent used for your paint.

When I was a younger man (Yes, I really CAN remember back that far) I was a helper, and one of my jobs was cleaning brushes for all the painters on the job. Early on, I made the mistake of cleaning one guy's prize Purdy oil brush with soap and water. Needless to say, I all but ruined the brush for oil from then on, and it took months for that guy to forgive me.
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:46 AM   #94
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Hair conditioner is great for brushes. You can even find 'Brush Conditioner' at beauty supply stores.
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Old 02-06-2009, 11:45 AM   #95
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Actually, the best way to clean a paint brush has more to do with BEFORE you paint than AFTER you paint.

Dip the brush in water or paint thinner and shake it out gently BEFORE painting with it. (you don't want to shake all the water or paint thinner out of the brush, just enough so that your paint isn't thinned too much when you start to paint)

If you're like most of the unwashed masses, you typically take a dry brush and immediately start painting with it. And, all the while you're painting, the paint inside the brush will be drying at the top (high up in the bristles) where it's exposed to air. By the time you go to clean the brush, don't be surprised if that the brush has come down with "flaring bristles and hard heel" syndrome cuz of the dried up paint high up in the bristles which simply won't wash out, or won't wash out nearly as easily as the wet paint lower down in the bristles.

By dipping the brush in water or paint thinner first, then capillary pressure draws those thinners high up into the bristles so that any paint that gets up there doesn't dry out, but stays wet for much longer. (Eventually the water or mineral spirits high up in the bristles will dry out too, so it's a good idea to place a few drops of water or mineral spirits high up in the bristles to replace the stuff that evaporates every hour or so.)

THEN, when you go to wash out your brush, the paint in it will wash out quickly and completely because nothing has dried up inside the bristles.

Doing that one simple task before painting saves an awful lot of time cleaning the brush after painting, and it keeps your brushes in good condition.
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Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 02-06-2009 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:29 AM   #96
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Those big, cool, expensive, plastic climbing yard toys (Little Tikes for example) fade in the sun in less than a few years. Give them a coat or two of car wax with UV protection and they won't fade (at least not nearly as fast) and this is suppose to work on plastic yard/deck furniture too.
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:44 AM   #97
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I for years, have used DL Hand cleaner as a brush conditioner. It non abrasive & water soluble. After we clean out our brushes at the end of the day, we spin them dry and apply a modest amount of hand cleaner to the bristles. Working it through the brush as one would with conditioner through your hair. We return the brush back into it's jacket for the night. Next morning the brush is ready for action. This helps the bristles keep their original shape, still allowing your material up into the brush which helps keep the shape while your working with it and allowing it to hold more material. Trouble with priming your brushes with water or thinners is it limits the amount of material your brush will hold, and it will lead to drips down the handle if you have any inverted work like ceiling borders or cown.. etc. Come clean up time, the brush will wash out in half the time and will come completely clean as the bristles were coated with the handcleaner. My average brush lasts 4 years by the way using this method. Works "purdy" well

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Old 02-10-2009, 01:01 PM   #98
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If you need to wear the over the shoe style Rubber Boots put plastic bags over your shoes......makes taking the boots off much easier
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:35 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gma2rjc View Post
Those big, cool, expensive, plastic climbing yard toys (Little Tikes for example) fade in the sun in less than a few years. Give them a coat or two of car wax with UV protection and they won't fade (at least not nearly as fast) and this is suppose to work on plastic yard/deck furniture too.
303 Protectant (at Walmart in the Automotive/RV section) is specially made for just this kind of job.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:09 AM   #100
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And if you happen to be wealthy enough to own some REALLY high quality sign lettering brushes made from squirrel hair or red sable, store them when not being used thusly.
Take a piece of wax paper large enough to cover the bristles more than twice, fold in 1/2. Put some lard, yes lard on the bristles of the brush and wrap up in the wax paper.
High quality brushes stored like this will remain in excellent condition for decades. I still have some dating back to the early 1970's, just like new.
Obviously you must clean them first. Just use any of the good cleaning tricks aforementioned.
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:16 PM   #101
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When your fishing cable through blind walls tie two pieces of rope (or the center of one really long piece of rope) to the fish tape. That way, when you pull your wire through you still have another rope to pull your next wire.

- pull rope up;
- tape wire to end of rope, tape second piece of rope to wire;
- pull wire down - un-tape wire tape ropes together;
- pull rope back up;
- Repeat as needed.

I can't believe it took me so long to figure that out.
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:59 PM   #102
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Got a good piece of wood to cut with a skill saw, and you don't want the usual "tear-out" on the top surface?

Just afix a piece of masonite or other thin hardboard to your saw plate with double sided tape... cover it all almost to the edges of the plate.

Then lower your saw blade slowly through the hardwood to just the depth you intend to cut the good wood. Stop there.

Now, go saw your good piece of wood and you'll have almost zero "tear-out".
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:15 PM   #103
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If you have a problem with the water evaporating from the trap in a seldom-used drain, causing the room to smell bad, pour some water in the drain and add a few drops of mineral oil (baby oil). The oil will spread out and create a film over the water. The water won't evaporate as quickly.
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:22 PM   #104
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wow, those last two were pretty good.... =o)
i use a variation of the saw trick on my table saw, but clamped and safe, of course.
willie, you rock dude....

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Old 02-24-2009, 04:33 PM   #105
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I didn't think that one up, Mouse. It comes from a guy named Tom Walter.

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