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Old 02-05-2009, 11:41 AM   #76
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DIY Tips and Tricks!


Doing some measuring and marking on painted walls? No matter how small you make that pencil tic, it still sticks out like a sore thumb.

Just put a small strip of that blue painter's tape on the wall first, and restrict your marking to the tape.

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Old 02-05-2009, 11:50 AM   #77
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Need a bunch of small clamps, but can't bear the thought of paying three or four bucks apiece?

Try this:
Cut off a bunch of rings from a length of PVC pipe. Then cut each ring open on one side. You now have ready-made clamps at about a nickel each.

If you need to open them wider than you can do with your fingers, they can be drilled as shown, and opened wider with removable dowels.
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:54 AM   #78
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Throw your spray cans of paint into a sink full of hot water for about ten or fifteen minutes. They will both mix and spray better warm.

Dry them off prior to using.
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:06 PM   #79
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I feel almost foolish posting this one, but there may still be SOMEONE who doesn't know about it.

Wrap some tape around your hand, sticky side out, and squeeze new paint rollers, all up and down to remove the hundreds of tiny loose hairs that might otherwise get onto your painted walls.
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:09 PM   #80
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#77

now that's a fersure keeper....

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Old 02-05-2009, 12:13 PM   #81
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#79

i always whack them a few times too before using the tape to finish up. gets the deep stuff loosened.

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Old 02-05-2009, 12:19 PM   #82
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I have paint rollers that are as much as three years old, and I still use them everyday. The trick is the "easy clean" method of preserving them.

Hold the frame over the edge of a wall or something so this method doesn't get you soaked......... and, instead, soak the roller with a hose.

Now, using the high pressure nozzle on your garden hose, start the roller to spinning. You do this by directing the stream at the outside perimeter of the roller. This will sling off all the watered down paint.

True, you will have to stop and do the roller-soaking thing several times before you're slinging clear water. But when you finally are, get the roller spinning just as fast as you can by just barely letting the fast stream of water touch the roller surface, then.... move the stream away, and let the roller spin to a stop.

The centrifugal force will have partially dried the roller, and it will have left the nap of the roller standing up like it was new.
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:23 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
#77

now that's a fersure keeper....

DM
I built a small airplane. There were hundreds of small joints that had to be epoxied, and the couple of hundred of these clamps that I made saved me a bundle.
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:59 PM   #84
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Quote:
For latex based caulking, the best shaping tool is what is at the end of your arm: Your fingers (to wipe it down)...
A wet finger.
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Old 02-06-2009, 06:34 AM   #85
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If you experience a sharp pain in your eye, while you sip your morning coffee...... take the spoon out of the cup
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:03 AM   #86
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I read an article in Popular Mechanics covering products "as seen on TV". One of those was that little rubber caulk spreader. You know, the small, square, blue one.

They actually had all very good reviews about it. I was surprised. But I still don't see it worth $19.95 + S&H........ But wait! If you order now, they'll send you not one, but two of those beauties. The price is looking better. You could line caulk with BOTH hands.
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:10 AM   #87
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i was just thinking that the rubberized magnets they send you as fake credit cards would probably be ideal! and they scissor up easily.
i'll try it next time i caulk anything and let you know....
sometimes the milk carton doesn't seem to have just the right thickness and is a bit stiffer.

keep it up, my friend! i'm loving this thread!

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Old 02-06-2009, 08:14 AM   #88
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Notice how they are excited to tell you about the free second item and then in a lower tone they speed through the line, "just pay shipping and handling". So it's $19.99 + S&H + S&H. At that price you can order one for all your friends and neighbors .
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:41 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
...The trick is the "easy clean" method of preserving them....
To build on this just a bit...

Take a cheep roller frame like this:

and remove the axle. Replace the axle with a the same size threaded rod that's about a foot longer than the roller frame.

From the bottom up you'll have this configuration...

lock nut | plastic end of roller frame | lock nut | - - - -> roller frame - - - -> | lock nut | plastic end of roller frame | lock nut | - - - -> threaded rod - - - ->

TIP: to speed up threading the nuts up the rod...chuck the rod in a drill, hold the nut with an end wrench...and SLOWLY start the drill...the nut will zip right up the rod.

Tighten the nuts just enough to keep the roller frame from spinning loosely on the threaded rod.

Chuck the exposed threaded rod in a 3/8" drill. Hold the roller in a 5 gallon bucket and let the drill spin until most of the paint comes out. The bucket is just a convent way to catch the spun paint, you could use a garbage can etc.

Thoroughly wet the roller (another 5 gallon bucket with water works well) repeat spin. Do this a couple of times and the roller will be perfectly clean. The centrifugal force keeps the roller nap puffed up and just like new. The last spin will leave the roller nearly dry...

It's the only way I now clean roller covers....
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:58 AM   #90
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here's an addon to that, take an old roller, (we have about 10) cut it here and flatten the 90 angle. use the wingnuts and lock the roller on.
lock it to yer drill, hit the 5 gallon buckets and wear yer raincoat!

DM
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